[ironman187]

"Off topic: What's up with jee34? Troll much?"

Who's jee34?

He's the guy that keeps calling these fixes "redneckery" and other things, yet has offered no useful advice. Textbook troll. Look back through the thread.

 

[FeMaster]

If your blower motor resister dies, the majority of the time the Thermal fuse that's soldered to it blew. The fix take 5 minutes and less than $2.00 with a soldering iron. Simply go to Radio shack (if you have one around you) and buy part number 270-1322. It's a 250VAC 10Amp 192 degree thermal fuse. Clip the wires for the old one, and solder the new one in it's place. If it stops working again within a year, suspect the blower motor is drawing too much current and causing the resister to overheat.

For anybody with the manual heater controls, I'd HIGHLY recommend anyone with the ability to solder, to repair their OEM unit over buying a replacement; replacements are GARBAGE.

My resistor block died a couple years back and I bought a replacement made by Doorman. The replacement is a major POS compared to the factory unit. Matter of fact, the 4th speed died on that Doorman replacement (all others still work for some reason) within 3 weeks of installation. I was sent another Doorman replacement, but I have yet to install it; I've been living with the dead 4th speed for about 2 years now. I have been meaning to removing the thermal fuse from the current Doorman garbage unit and install it into the OEM unit, which I kept, but like even swapping out the other Doorman, just haven't gotten around to it.

OEM compared to replacements:

 

[LEVY]

For anybody with the manual heater controls, I'd HIGHLY recommend anyone with the ability to solder, to repair their OEM unit over buying a replacement; replacements are GARBAGE.

My resistor block died a couple years back and I bought a replacement made by Doorman. The replacement is a major POS compared to the factory unit. Matter of fact, the 4th speed died on that Doorman replacement (all others still work for some reason) within 3 weeks of installation. I was sent another Doorman replacement, but I have yet to install it; I've been living with the dead 4th speed for about 2 years now. I have been meaning to removing the thermal fuse from the current Doorman garbage unit and install it into the OEM unit, which I kept, but like even swapping out the other Doorman, just haven't gotten around to it.

OEM compared to replacements:

Nice picture.

But solder what? If one of the resistor is burnt (broken) it can not be easily soldered, unles you have the right equipment (not a solder gun).

 

[Caraman99]

Nice picture.

But solder what? If one of the resistor is burnt (broken) it can not be easily soldered, unles you have the right rwuopment (not a solder gun).

They need to be welded, not soldered.

Solder will always melt at the temps reached by resistor plug, even in winter. Terrible design.

 

[ironman187]

Nice picture.

But solder what? If one of the resistor is burnt (broken) it can not be easily soldered, unles you have the right rwuopment (not a solder gun).

It's been my experience that the resisters are usually fine when these go. The thermal fuse is what blows, and it does so before the resisters are allowed to reach a temperature that would melt solder. You have to remove the metal cage from the factory resister pack, underneath with be several spring looking things (the resisters), and a single small cylinder like the black one shown on the aftermarket resister pack. Simply clip the leads and solder the new one in place, put the metal cage back on, and re-install. The item above the radio shack bag is the thermal fuse that I cut out of the factory resister pack.

 

[FeMaster]

Nice picture.

But solder what? If one of the resistor is burnt (broken) it can not be easily soldered, unles you have the right rwuopment (not a solder gun).

I tried to decode what you meant by "rwuopment", but I could not figure it out.

Very true, that you will not be able to solder (and hence fix) a broken coil, that just would not work due to many reasons. If you read the post I replied to, it states that it is generally the thermal fuse that blows and renders the OEM unit useless. Based on my own experience, I completely agree with that statement. While I could have elaborated on things a bit more, soldering a thermal fuse into the OEM unit really isn't that difficult. You would use pretty much the entire length of the leads on the device, and anybody that knows the first thing about soldering would know that on a thermal fuse, you should also use heat dissipating clips to further eliminate the possibility of blowing the fuse during the soldering process.

 

[FeMaster]

They need to be welded, not soldered.

Solder will always melt at the temps reached by resistor plug, even in winter. Terrible design.

I will have to disagree with you on this. The thermal fuse is rated at 195F, so it will never get hotter than that before it blows. Solder melts at a temperature of 360F to 370F depending upon the composition of metals. That melting point is way outside the temperature range that the thermal fuse would ever see.

 

[FeMaster]

Do you by chance know what the temp rating was on your OEM thermal fuse? I see that you used a 282F (139C), while the original poster used a 264F (129C). I took a look at my unused aftermarket resistor block, and it looks like the thermal fuse has 172C (342F) on it, but it was poorly printed and hard to make out. That just seems way to high to me, maybe it was 122C, that would seem more realistic.

 

[FeMaster]

They need to be welded, not soldered. Solder will always melt at the temps reached by resistor plug, even in winter. Terrible design.

I will have to disagree with you on this. The thermal fuse is rated at 195F, so it will never get hotter than that before it blows. Solder melts at a temperature of 360F to 370F depending upon the composition of metals. That melting point is way outside the temperature range that the thermal fuse would ever see.

I have to update this, as I was mistaken on my figures.

The OP actually stated 192C, which in itself was a mistake by them, as the part number given is for a part that is actually 129C. In any case I still stand by my initial response in that soldering will be just fine. At 129C (264F), that temp is still well below the typical melting point of solder.

 

[ironman187]

Oil Change Tip - No More Oil Bath

Not really a quick fix, but still handy. When changing the oil in your 4th gen, put a drain pan under the filter, take a screw driver and punch a hole in the bottom of the filter, the oil will drain out and you can remove the filter without getting that pesky stream of oil running down your arm.

 

[Jeepman]

Not really a quick fix, but still handy. When changing the oil in your 4th gen, put a drain pan under the filter, take a screw driver and punch a hole in the bottom of the filter, the oil will drain out and you can remove the filter without getting that pesky stream of oil running down your arm.

That's a good tip. I have even driven a screw driver through an oil filter to get it off.

 

[cmk033]

Not really a quick fix, but still handy. When changing the oil in your 4th gen, put a drain pan under the filter, take a screw driver and punch a hole in the bottom of the filter, the oil will drain out and you can remove the filter without getting that pesky stream of oil running down your arm.

That is a good idea. Speaking of oil change, I always ended up putting 5 quarts when doing oil change, not 4.

 

[ironman187]

That is a good idea. Speaking of oil change, I always ended up putting 5 quarts when doing oil change, not 4.

The user manual says 4.5 capacity without the oil filter. 5 quarts is just right with the oil filter.

 

[Jeepman]

Drill Adapter To Use For Lug Nuts

This isn't a quick fix per say, but it can speed up work with less effort on your part.

I have two RV scissors jacks that I described a few weeks back in another Thread. They were purchased a few years back at Princess Auto and look like this:
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/2-pc-2-1-2-ton-rv-scissor-jacks/A-p8516684e

The above mentioned Thread: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sh...r-rear-end-of-first-gen?p=1544121#post1544121

The driver end of the scissors jack has a 3/4" hex nut and a special drill operated socket (drill adapter) is available per: https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-57363-Leveling-Scissor-Socket/dp/B001V8U12M

I could use my air operated impact wrench on the 3/4" hex nut but that is a bit jumpy, perhaps too rough on the nut, plus I want something more portable so I can use a light battery operated driver on the lug nuts.

I went to Princess Auto today and the guy I talked with knew exactly what I was talking about. He asked another worker there if she knew where to find the special adapter. She knew what we were talking about and responded that they have them at times but not now. I was happy with their attitude and knowledge.

I next went to Canadian Tire and the guy there could have been more helpful, not even taking the time to understand what I was talking about. I took a long hard look at the drill attachments section he took me to and, on my own, I found something I liked even better, looking like this http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...ds&dclid=CLaR9N2F4NcCFWa_swoduScBwg#store=289 with a 1/2" drive for $5.99 plus tax.

My main thinking is saving time loosening and tightening lug nuts which I usually do by hand tools. Initial loosening and final tightening being done by heavier hand tools/torque wrench. Impact wrenches damage the finish and caps, so I avoid that use.

Here's the light weight Bosch drill/driver tool to help save the hand work: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.18-v-compact-12-inch-drilldriver.1000845135.html That tool is a sweat addition to my collection, so light, fairly powerful, great for driving deck screws and such. Even has a belt clip. I highly recommend that tool. I will be using this combo the next time the wheels come off.

 

[Westphal]

I next went to Canadian Tire and the guy there could have been more helpful, not even taking the time to understand what I was talking about. I took a long hard look at the drill attachments section he took me to and, on my own, I found something I liked even better, looking like this http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...ds&dclid=CLaR9N2F4NcCFWa_swoduScBwg#store=289 with a 1/2" drive for $5.99 plus tax.

My main thinking is saving time loosening and tightening lug nuts which I usually do by hand tools. Initial loosening and final tightening being done by heavier hand tools/torque wrench. Impact wrenches damage the finish and caps, so I avoid that use.

I found the same thing at Sears, made by Craftsman. My GTO has long ARP wheel studs, so it takes forever to unscrew and screw back on the lug nuts by hand. I chuck the adapter up in my cordless drill and it speeds things up. Works well on the van too since it helps get the wheels mounted back up with minimal torque, saving the rest of the torqueing with a torque wrench.

 

[Robin]

I have a few scissor jacks from retired vehicles and the socket adapter for my drill. Those jacks are good for lifting stuff around the house.
A short piece of heater hose at the "y"'s behind the engine will temporarily bypass the rear heater line leak until it can be fixed. I picked up 3/4" X 6' stainless tubing from a scrapyard years ago for tomato stakes - super cheap. Two fixed the heater line leak in my Kia Sedona. ( I borrowed a Ridgid tubing bender from a friend ).

 

[Jeepman]

How to check CEL codes w/o scanner on 99-up vans

Here's information on the "key dance" method to obtain certain fault codes, related mainly to power train and emissions (P Series)
https://forum.chryslerminivan.net/s...w-o-scanner-on-99-up-vans?p=234021#post234021

More on fault codes: https://www.outilsobdfacile.com/data-trouble-code-obd2.php

 

[Jeepman]

Self Diagnostic Test Feature - Instrument Cluster

The instrument clusters are equipped with a self diagnostic test feature to help identify electronic problems. Prior to any test, perform the Self-Diagnostic Test. The self diagnostic system displays instrument cluster stored fault codes in the odometer display, sweeps the gauges to the calibration points, and bulb checks the warning indicators. When the key is in the ON position with the engine not running, the MIL will remain illuminated for regulatory purposes.

To activate the Self-Diagnostic program:
(1) With the ignition switch in the OFF position, depress the TRIP ODOMETER RESET button.
(2) Continue to hold the TRIP ODOMETER RESET button until Sof and a number (software version number (i.e. Sof 3.2) appears in the odometer window then release the button. If a fault code is present, the cluster will display it in the odometer display. When all fault codes have been displayed, the cluster will display “end” in the odometer display. Refer to the INSTRUMENT CLUSTER DTC’S table to determine what each trouble code means.

More on this including DTCs:
06 GC SXT white squares around shift indicator letters: https://forum.chryslerminivan.net/s...shift-indicator-letters?p=1579689#post1579689

Seems to me that also helps clean up issues with the overhead computer too. It did for my 2007.

 

[gmastired]

Thanks!!

I am just getting ready to change oil I will use this tip!! Thank you!!

 

[Mopar-Mofun]

On Caravans models with only 1-12VDC Power Outlet, you can add a second one easily. The 2nd connector is right behind the panel. Just add the 2nd Power Outlet by pulling the cap-plug out (most models) or match the hole size with a flat fat drill blade to cut the hole. By cutting, keep the RPMs of the drill on SLOW for a really nice and clean cut.

Whilst taking interior parts from my old 2005 SXT to the 2006 SX, this was one of many items I had pillaged. Now my Caravan is a SXE (wife didn't like me calling it a Caravan SEX model). :nut: