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2014 Chrysler Town & Country 30th Anniversary Edition. 3.6L, 211kW
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi.

Couldn't find a video where they replaced just the rotors. My question is is it possible to just replace the rotors by removing the caliper adapter bolts and sliding the adapter off together with the assembled caliper + pads and then just sliding it back on after installing the new rotors? Or the caliper has to be opened as well and pistons pushed in?

Thanks.
 

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It will come off that way, but you could use a c clamp across the back of the caliper and back of the outer pads to retract the caliper pistons a bit to make it easier. Otherwise you'll have to work it off the possibly grooved old rotor and onto the new possibly thicker rotor.
 

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538 RWHP, LS motor, RX7 body
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Why?

Yes. possible.
It can be a PIA to get the caliper/bracket off in one piece and keep it together to put back on.
Your pad surfaces are mated to the current rotors. Going through the trouble, it's not too much more to change the pads and tune up (clean) the calipers too. Brake parts for this car are cheap (relatively).

With racing calipers, or single piece, the pads are captured inside the caliper. The entire caliper can be removed with 2 bolts (but the pads do need to be squeezed back), to work on the rotors.
 

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Screwdriver prying against a pad, to push the piston back a little, will work for the front.
Then remove and support the caliper and bracket assembly. Hopefully the pads stay in place. Do you feel lucky? :)
Take the rotor off and use a flap disk on an angle grinder to clean it up and reuse it.
A new rotor without doing something to refinish the pads isn't prudent.
 

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2014 Chrysler Town & Country 30th Anniversary Edition. 3.6L, 211kW
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Screwdriver prying against a pad, to push the piston back a little, will work for the front.
Then remove and support the caliper and bracket assembly. Hopefully the pads stay in place. Do you feel lucky? :)
Take the rotor off and use a flap disk on an angle grinder to clean it up and reuse it.
A new rotor without doing something to refinish the pads isn't prudent.
Nope, I don’t feel lucky.
Looking to replace only rotors because I got enough pad material left but rotors are warped and I might also have this issue with vibration: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10139914-9999.pdf

But I haven’t checked the Julian date on the rotors yet.
 

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Possible, yes. Easier, no. Pads will need to be pushed back. Plus, you should really install fresh pads on a new rotor so you don't transfer scoring lines over to it.
 

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2014 Chrysler Town & Country 30th Anniversary Edition. 3.6L, 211kW
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Possible, yes. Easier, no. Pads will need to be pushed back. Plus, you should really install fresh pads on a new rotor so you don't transfer scoring lines over to it.
I see. Do the front pistons go in by pushing only? The rears need turning as well. Also should threadlocker be used for the adapter bolts or no?
 

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2014 Ram C/V, black, delete seats, windows, factory hitch
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I have done this on brakes when the car sat for 6 months waiting to have the transmission done, I pulled the rotors (put new ones on) and DA'd the old ones to remove the built up rust. The "old" rotors were replaced just before it sat, so I didnt have to futz with the rears to retract the piston.
 

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Nope, I don’t feel lucky.
Looking to replace only rotors because I got enough pad material left but rotors are warped and I might also have this issue with vibration: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10139914-9999.pdf

But I haven’t checked the Julian date on the rotors yet.
As for a "quick way", a Mechanic would likely pinch off the hose, remove banjo bolt, and remove the assembly, tout suite.
Removing the caliper and then the bracket would be simple enough. The caliper bolts (pins) are low torque. That's my recommendation.

They say "out of balance" rotors which = uneven rust deposits/rust scale, or wear surface delamination pockets, or poor product casting/manufacture. The latter is likely the case, perhaps due to the ventilation pillars in the rotor being inconsistent. They don't say which but they don't say "warped" either.

Automotive tire Rectangle Font Bicycle part Rim



A wheel that is out of balance isn't "warped", same goes for rotors. "Warped" rotors are noticeable when braking, not necessarily while not braking. The problem described applies to "without the brakes applied".
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may describe a shake and/or vibration in the steering wheel and/or the seat while driving at highway speeds without the brakes applied. This vibration may be caused by out of balance front brake rotors.
You should be able to pry, with a screwdriver, between the front rotor and pad/pad backing plate, to move the piston back enough OR just wiggle the assembly off to let the rotor force the piston back some. Rear pistons are different, being a screw type. May have to beat rust off of edges for the rears. Removing the caliper first makes it easy.

Cleaning up a rotor with an angle grinder and tapered (bevel type) 80 grit flap disk:
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Tread Rim


Disclaimer: "Warped" rotors are a no-more apparently. Brake pulsations, when braking, are due to other causes such as corrosion or wear surface deposits. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As for a "quick way", a Mechanic would likely pinch off the hose and remove the assembly, tout suite. Removing the caliper and then the bracket would be simple enough. The caliper bolts (pins) are low torque. That's my recommendation.

They say "out of balance" rotors which = uneven rust deposits/rust scale, or wear surface delamination pockets, or poor product casting/manufacture. The latter is likely the case, perhaps due to the ventilation pillars in the rotor being inconsistent. They don't say which but they don't say "warped" either.

View attachment 67718


A wheel that is out of balance isn't "warped", same goes for rotors. "Warped" rotors are noticeable when braking, not necessarily while not braking. The problem described applies to "without the brakes applied".


You should be able to pry, with a screwdriver, between the front rotor and pad/pad backing plate, to move the piston back enough OR just wiggle the assembly off to let the rotor force the piston back some. Rear pistons are different, being a screw type. May have to beat rust off of edges for the rears. Removing the caliper first makes it easy.

Cleaning up a rotor with an angle grinder and tapered (bevel type) 80 grit flap disk:
View attachment 67717

Disclaimer: "Warped" rotors are a no-more apparently. Brake pulsations, when braking, are due to other causes such as corrosion or wear surface deposits. :)
I have steering wheel vibration when braking and a slight vibration at highway speeds while not braking. I’m pretty sure the issue is with the rotors. They’re either “warped” or out of balance. Wheels were balanced recently so they should be ok. I’ve had the vibration thing for the whole time I’ve had the car and during that time I’ve had like 2 or so alignements done and about same amount of times wheel balancing done. Rotors are my last bet. Even more so if the Julian date is within the range specified in the TSB.
 

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2014 Ram C/V, black, delete seats, windows, factory hitch
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I have had that issue many times, especially on the original rotors/pads. Changing rotors and pads always cured the vibration for me.
 

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I've been through similar issues with our 14. A bit of a vibration that shows up above 70mph. It was never really during braking though till just recently. New rotors fixed the vibration during braking. I tried motor mounts but that didn't help. Rebalanced and rotated wheels and eventually new tires didn't help. Found a leaky strut and replacing that did help. But the shimmy is either reemerging or I'm getting more sensitive to it.

Braking and cruising vibration have always seemed separate issues, in my experience. But maybe I've never had unbalanced rotors.
 

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I have noticed the shimmy returns (under braking) when its time to do rotors/pads. For me, thats about every two years normally. Very noticeable under light braking on a long downhill. At cruise, i have an imbalance issue at 65, but I know thats from putting SLime in a punctured rear tire.
 

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Sometimes switching front wheels from left to right, changing the direction of rotation, can get rid of a shake.
 

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it only began after the slime, even though they say it doesnt affect tire balance. One of these days I will take it off and drain out the excess, thats the same wheel that the caliper screws up on.
 

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it only began after the slime, even though they say it doesnt affect tire balance. One of these days I will take it off and drain out the excess, thats the same wheel that the caliper screws up on.
Lots of stories about "slime" doing whatever. I've never used it, guess I won't. :)

But .... they use it in motorcycle tires. Go figure.
 

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I see. Do the front pistons go in by pushing only? The rears need turning as well. Also should threadlocker be used for the adapter bolts or no?
No threadlocker, just tight. Push only. You will only ever have twist in brakes on the back, because those are for parking brakes.
 

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Some use blue Loctite on the caliper bracket bolts. Opinions vary. Vehicle specs may apply.

Some guys use anti-seize, but I wouldn't go there.

I have used blue thread locker on Honda caliper brackets along with new bolts.
 
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