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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, y'all, so...

And, yes, I've done a thorough search for previous discussions, multiple searches in fact, even going as far as employeeing Boolean logic...

Anyway, I intend to remove everything involving rear climate control. I think I have a pretty good grasp on it, from reading dozens of 'bypass' posts looking for crums of additional information, and from reading all the relevant pages of my digital copy of the FSM...my plan is to
Do the conventional bypass - 5/8ths rubber hose connecting send and return lines aft of engine
"Go to a service center and pay them to capture used refrigerant"
Rip out everything... condenser, rear core, and so forth
STEP X
recharge system

Step X is the unknown variable. In particular, how do I bypass the disconnected ac lines? Am I going to have to find a...uh...pipefitter for lack of a better word?

My intention is to buy a 12v bilge air pump, cut a hole around the now vacant space where the rear lines came back in, take a bunch of duct tape and so ducting, and make the roof vents pump backwards and our the underside of the van. To keep temps down while parked. I've insulated the van to a crazy degree, polyisocyanurate over all windows behind driver, wool in all cavities, and so on, van stays perfectly tolerable in full sun IF there's a slight breeze, and I think this will be a grand solution.
 

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Wow, you've done a crazy amount of research into this and I applaud you for it.

You could probably get all the A/C lines you need at a junkyard from a long wheelbase van that only had front A/C.

I remember a few decades ago there used to be these panels that housed a small fan each, that were closed into the front windows while parked. They were solar powered and would vent hot inside air out when the sun came out.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
So, first of all, it wasn't that much thought processing power to get as far as I got. If I wasn't a serious lurker on these here forums I might have thought you were being sarcastic - and, having been lurking as long as I have, I've read a small novella from you, so I know you are very genuine and very very helpful.

But yeah, not much brain used this far, case in point, THATS SO OBVIOUS! I can't believe that hadn't occured to me this entire time. I could probably also find whatever Mopar uses for a bent rubber hose for the heater lines.

That solar fan is a cool concept. I was not previously aware of them, for a while my plan was a pop open solar powered roof fan, the big 12 inch ones that they have on RVs and taco trucks, but I am quite wary of cutting the roof, as I imagine everyone would be.

I was hoping u, or Edy, or rip, even levy, would answer, but then realized, of course you guys would. This forum is actually like a full service Mopar customer service hotline, and yall are the entire staff. I mean, I'd pay 20$ a month to access the wealth of information from just the few ppl I've named!
 

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Hey, y'all, so...

And, yes, I've done a thorough search for previous discussions, multiple searches in fact, even going as far as employeeing Boolean logic...

Anyway, I intend to remove everything involving rear climate control. I think I have a pretty good grasp on it, from reading dozens of 'bypass' posts looking for crums of additional information, and from reading all the relevant pages of my digital copy of the FSM...my plan is to
Do the conventional bypass - 5/8ths rubber hose connecting send and return lines aft of engine
"Go to a service center and pay them to capture used refrigerant"
Rip out everything... condenser, rear core, and so forth
STEP X
recharge system

Step X is the unknown variable. In particular, how do I bypass the disconnected ac lines? Am I going to have to find a...uh...pipefitter for lack of a better word?

My intention is to buy a 12v bilge air pump, cut a hole around the now vacant space where the rear lines came back in, take a bunch of duct tape and so ducting, and make the roof vents pump backwards and our the underside of the van. To keep temps down while parked. I've insulated the van to a crazy degree, polyisocyanurate over all windows behind driver, wool in all cavities, and so on, van stays perfectly tolerable in full sun IF there's a slight breeze, and I think this will be a grand solution.
Well, unfortunately, I dont think I can offer you any help... But I do have to say, this idea is insanely cool (Haha, get it?) Did the insulation help a lot with road noise? Ive got a 2007 T&C Base that I bought for $400 that has decently bad road noise and I've been thinking about adding insulation. (My daily is a 2009 Lexus ES350, so I have a high standard for road noise haha)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You know, and perhaps you've already done the research, but actually I couldn't really tell you if the insulation helped because, for one thing, the windows are usually pretty far down the list of noise sources, but for another I keep everything minty fresh if I can and didn't have road noise, I don't even have engine noise, beforehand.
Here is the main sources of road noise that would've way more worthwhile to attend to first
Tires - old, bald tires would be a big source, but even brand new tires can vary in road noise generated. There are websites and forums comparing models for noise if you look
Windows - not the glass, however, but the seals on all four sides, and backside and front, can be a MAJOR source if there is rot in particular areas, or ESPECIALLY if the windows are misaligned on the lift plates
Door seals - probably the hardest part to acquire new out of damn near anything, because all of them are rotten. Yours are rotten. Mine are rotten. There are tricks involving nylon rope and RTV silicone sealant to make repairs to bad sections.
Windshield gasket - this can also be a MAJOR source if it has problems.

You know, when my wife's di first moved from our palatial home into our car it was an LS400, and I would never believe it if I wasn't the one who lived it, but that thing was so damn comfortable to sleep in, even though it was just a reclined bucket seat. I have back problems from getting shot in the spine, and it was perhaps better than any bed I've owned. I might still be living in that car if they hadn't decided to put the starter UNDER the cylinder heads. At that time, I couldn't even consider trying to deal with that. And, in the long run, it caused me to get my van, which I cherish and will own until one or the both of us go down in flames
 

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Honestly if you weren't having issues with the system itself, having rear a/c would be far more efficient than any exhaust fan. A properly working, cold front and rear a/c system gets these vans (esp extended length models) cold FAST here in Florida. Front only, not so much. Even our 93 shorty took a long time to cool with just front a/c, but it didn't have tinted windows, so there's that too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh, well, I DO have the rear blower/resistor issue, but the situation that calls for this operation takes place when the engine is off.
Honestly, here in Oakland, CA, I never ever turn on the AC either way, and it still blows nice and cold...
 
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