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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. Guess I should work out some bugs now…
The rear heater controls are not illuminating or functioning when the front is on rear control selector. The DVD players pins were corroded, is it possible something like that is going on there? Or perhaps I over looked something in the searches??
thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, thought I put that in my tagline.
2005 limited. I don’t believe it has, I assume I’ll be needing to take the controls down, just thought someone may know of a different fix.
 

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Oh man... I apologize for the community, I suppose we should assign an official greeter at the front door. (We haven't had one since Sam Walton passed away and we just can't convince Warren Buffet to do it anymore since that one isolated incident with member Levy)

Welcome to the Mopar MiniVan Garage
The very best place on the planet for maintenance and repair tips for you your Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler, and/or Desoto minivan.

I am not very social as I never go to the "Welcome / Introduce" page...
That is where you told about your 2005 low mileage "scratch and dent", congratulations.

If you put that info in your signature like many of us have, we can always readily see what you got. (I was always forgetting to tell and nobody can remember what everyone else is driving, except perhaps, JeepMan)

Where has this van been living? Winter salt? Garaged? rusty or just bumper car? Kids, pets, clean inside or musty/dusty? Work VAN or passenger?

You mentioned DVD player pin corrosion... many times the simple act of reseating (unplugging and re plugging) these connectors will restore function. Electrical contact cleaner aerosol spray is handy to have, I love DeOxID® although it is a little pricey.

For undercarriage rust or corrosion FluidFilm ® in either aerosol or brush applicator can (amazon or autoparts)

again, welcome aboard.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the apology but not necessary, Lol, I am very hit and miss, technically is not my thing, I use it to solve problems, not really visit a lot.
I’ve been lazy about updating my sig line….I know….
I’m in Washington state, on the beach so we have salt, although it isn’t rusty except we’re it got dented😬, I got it that way lol…replaced one side door that I need to paint….fiberglass and bondo to come for the rest you lol. It’s pretty clean actually, on the inside. An old guy had it so just small trips around town, it did have a light interior mold on the seats and stuff when I picked it up, but it wiped off. The dvd plug pins were all corroded, but one correded through at the base connector, otherwise I assume it would work, if I really tried I could probably solder some weird repair lol, I just don’t plan on watching movies in it. So far it’s just my driver to work to save money from my other driver. It may haul stuff from town, I hauled a quad from my buddies house lol. Rambling, sorry…
The heat still works from the front but it would be nice to fix as I probably will throw some kids in there from time to time. It’s raining so maybe I’ll make that todays project…
 

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These vans are great and capable of holding full 4x8 sheets of material, flat. Long wheelbase that is...
Hopefully one of the guys who have access to schematics, connector locations, and perhaps some personal experience will chime in this weekend.

Something I found on my 2002 that was lucky I caught it before it happened was that there is a little plastic heater coolant restrictor (if you remember back a hundred years ago, cars regularly had a coolant valve to the heater core) Anyway I read about, consulted a few members regarding them their van having overheat symptoms yet the temperature gauge was not showing hot. Long story shortened, this plastic restrictor would crack or break and pump the coolant onto the highway, thus lowering the coolant level below the height of the coolant temp sensor, so it never touched the hot antifreeze, thus no hot alarm.

I thought, man, I better go check mine... I decided to just outright go ahead to replace it with new. When I touched it to replace it, it broke right away and then kinda crumbled apart as I extracted parts out of the adjoining hose. I am very glad I did that.
 

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Cylinder Water Electric blue Bottle Metal


I believe the part number is 4677378AB and available on Amazon as well as other sources. Myself, I learned a long time ago to only use Yamaha parts on my cycle,,, So I would get the Mopar part.
*Now, there is a Dorman aftermarket part that is a dollar cheaper or so BUT someone started rumor that it was backwards. SO keep that in mind.

What?? Amazon has it at $78 but mopar MSRP is $25 and can get it from MoparPartsGiant for like $17
 
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