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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2005 Limited a few months back and find that both rear vent windows are non-op. I've searched for ways to repair these and find all the threads are many years old. All the solutions suggested are either replace the old motor (Mabuchi RK-370C - KN325513) which seems to most always be the culprit, or replace the whole unit.

The problem is the motor suggested is no longer available and for the new units; Dorman 948-300 L & 948-301 R, no one seems to stock the right side one except a couple places at full $135 retail price. The left one can be had for as little as $85 dollars.

So mostly this post is a request for sources for either the motor or the complete replacement units at a cheaper price or any other suggestion for getting these working again without replacement.
 

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Find a low trim van and swap in those manual handles/latches? That's what I did to our 2000 T&C Limited, since I rarely use the vent windows. I rarely used them because I'm always afraid they wouldn't close! I can pop the liftgate and open/close them from the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Find a low trim van and swap in those manual handles/latches?
Ya that was a suggestion from an old thread. May just be the way to go as you are right, I would so seldom use them it''s not worth spending a lot. I'm just kind of obsessive that things on a car should work so I'd need to get past that. The question would be which years would work. The Dorman ones fit from 2001 to 2016 so it looks like pretty much any 4th or most 5th gens would do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Find a low trim van and swap in those manual handles/latches?
There is also a YouTube where the guy just gutted the latch of its motor and put it back together. Then you just manually turn the motorized linkage to open and close it. It looked like it did lock in each closed or open position. Simple enough for zero new parts or money.
 

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2006 Dodge Caravan SXE
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I bought a 2005 Limited a few months back and find that both rear vent windows are non-op. I've searched for ways to repair these and find all the threads are many years old. All the solutions suggested are either replace the old motor (Mabuchi RK-370C - KN325513) which seems to most always be the culprit, or replace the whole unit.

The problem is the motor suggested is no longer available and for the new units; Dorman 948-300 L & 948-301 R, no one seems to stock the right side one except a couple places at full $135 retail price. The left one can be had for as little as $85 dollars.

So mostly this post is a request for sources for either the motor or the complete replacement units at a cheaper price or any other suggestion for getting these working again without replacement.
The Mabuchi RK-370C is often found in old VRCs and handheld CAM recorders from the late 80s thru 2010. It's also found in many many many of the doorman HVAC actuators that look like a baby grand piano.
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Now, if the Mabuchi RK-370C is not in the piano actuator, the Johnson Electric clone is in it. It too would work in your rear winder motor vents.

The Johnson Electric clone is still used today in other sized actuators. Like the 3 with the motor bulge below.
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So, if you find any HVAC actuator with the motor bulge like this, then the motor works. So look at the pull-a-parts and other places to snag one. In fact, the rear HVAC units in these 4th gens have one at the top of the unit to have the ir come out the ceiling or the floor.

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If you get a bare motor, the red dot on the back show the positive wire location.

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If I recall right, Panasonic also has a clone of this Mabuchi RK370C too. Don't be too worried it it's marked RK370B or RK370A, the last letter is just a motor revision. Now avoid the RK370SD as it's 2X the speed in rpms.

BTW, HP use to use these in their old laserjet printers too.

I use to use a bunch of these when I was into RC cars and RC boats as a teen.

Mabuchi use to make over 2-million of this motor type per day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow, thanks. That is very complete. The issue for me is tracking down the correct model. Lots out there with various shaft lengths (apparently this must be 17mm) and speeds. The ones ending in CA instead of C seem right but all say speeds like 44,000 RPM. From what I can tell this needs to be about 5000 at 12v. No doubt there are interchanges with other manufacturers but I can't find any charts to guide me as to which. One thing seems sure, unless someone offers one on ebay the original motor is no longer obtainable.
 

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Wow, thanks. That is very complete. The issue for me is tracking down the correct model. Lots out there with various shaft lengths (apparently this must be 17mm) and speeds. The ones ending in CA instead of C seem right but all say speeds like 44,000 RPM. From what I can tell this needs to be about 5000 at 12v. No doubt there are interchanges with other manufacturers but I can't find any charts to guide me as to which. One thing seems sure, unless someone offers one on ebay the original motor is no longer obtainable.
Mabuchi RK-370C comes in a few speeds.

The RK-370CA-10800 lends itself to be the speed you are after. The other two are possible to use as well.

Now you mentioned it has to be long shaft like this.

Circuit component Cylinder Gas Auto part Font

  • Mabuchi DC Electric Motor 12-24V
  • Suitable for RC Toys and Printers
  • 2mm round diameter shaft, 17mm long
  • Current 15mA, 3900 RPM (no load)
  • 25mm diameter x 32mm long
Mabuchi RK-370C-15370. Operates smoothly on 12 - 24VDC; measured 12V @ 15mA, 3900 RPM (no load.), negative terminal also welded to housing. Size : 25mm diameter x 32mm long with 2mm round shaft, 17mm long

When I do a cross reference in my RC hobby forum, this brand as a clone knock-off from China shows up.
amazon.com/CHANWA-RK-370CA-15370-Carbon-12V-24V-Precision/dp/B0BCPYMKYC

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Now, if you don't want to pay sticker shock on Amazon, the hobby on-line stores are the normal price for these.

In the past, when a hobby club buys in bulk, these motors can be had from 89-cents to $1.29.

See attached, I snagged this from the RC forums datasheet folder.

The RF-370CB-11670 is very close with shaft length of 15.2mm. Runs a tad slower. It may take an additional 2 seconds more to reach end-to-end travel with the windows.

If the shaft length was the 10.5mm, there are 4 motors to easily pick to substitute and another 3 more with an added resistor to bring the speed back to 5,000rpms.

There was a 22mm long shaft done some time ago. I've forgotten the model in the RF-370-xx. It would be easy to snip it to 17mm. This was used for RC model boats with the longer rear impeller shaft.

If you want the drop in clone, this one is the better deal.
Download the datasheet from the site too.

Oh, I found the Johnson Electric clone. JE makes all kinds of motors for automotive too.


At 24V it runs about 7,500rpms
At 12V it runs about 4,000rpms. Just like before, about 1 or 2 seconds slower.

JOHNSON RF-370CA-12560 RF-370 DC12V 24V Mini 24mm Electric Motor, Car Window Lock
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Here's a great place to buy hobby motors, gears, etc. I narrowed the search down.
The metric numbers are divided by 25.4 to equal the english lengths.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh, I found the Johnson Electric clone. JE makes all kinds of motors for automotive too.

At 24V it runs about 7,500rpms
At 12V it runs about 4,000rpms. Just like before, about 1 or 2 seconds slower.

JOHNSON RF-370CA-12560 RF-370 DC12V 24V Mini 24mm Electric Motor, Car Window Lock
Excellent. Thanks for the research. Looks like the Johnson RF-370CA-12560 fits the bill. Motor dimensions and shaft are almost exactly correct. And the slower speed may well mean the increased torque will help the motor last longer. People seem to burn through these pretty fast. I ordered 4 just to have a stock. At $4 ea. why not. Thanks again.
 

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Excellent. Thanks for the research. Looks like the Johnson RF-370CA-12560 fits the bill. Motor dimensions and shaft are almost exactly correct. And the slower speed may well mean the increased torque will help the motor last longer. People seem to burn through these pretty fast. I ordered 4 just to have a stock. At $4 ea. why not. Thanks again.
If it's a mere 1mm too long, sandpaper or a small file to nip the shaft end back works just fine. These motors tend to have a 1.25mm end play. So I bet you can use it as-is.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If it's a mere 1mm too long, sandpaper or a small file to nip the shaft end back works just fine. These motors tend to have a 1.25mm end play. So I bet you can use it as-is.
The worm gear just slips off the old motor onto the new one so as long as it ends up in the right place it should be fine. From the pics I've seen of the internals there is plenty of room for that extra mm. The good thing about this thread is it is a major update to what was available from this problems. There were no new threads that I could find on these motor replacements for so many years that the old source links were no longer live.

Great stuff for the community here to have available. I have fixed 37 problems (I kept a spreadsheet) this car had when I bought it mostly from info from here. I got it cheap so I didn't care and now it is like new. This was the very last issue I had.
 

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The worm gear just slips off the old motor onto the new one so as long as it ends up in the right place it should be fine. From the pics I've seen of the internals there is plenty of room for that extra mm. The good thing about this thread is it is a major update to what was available from this problems. There were no new threads that I could find on these motor replacements for so many years that the old source links were no longer live.

Great stuff for the community here to have available. I have fixed 37 problems (I kept a spreadsheet) this car had when I bought it mostly from info from here. I got it cheap so I didn't care and now it is like new. This was the very last issue I had.
I too had a 2005. Its the worse year for electrical gremlins. I feel you pain or gain. Last year I had posted in one of the 2005 troubled threads all the fixes I had to making it better.

I'm a firm believer in adding more braided grounding straps with eyelets. :)
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