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Recurring radiator issue, blown head gasket?

865 Views 31 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  stidley007
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Hi,

I made a prior thread a while back concerning this issue but wanted to make a new one with new insights I've found. The issue is as follows:

The coolant level in my 2007's radiator consistently stays about three inches below the filler neck. It does not decrease below this height, nor will it pull in coolant from the overflow. I have driven it as such for months to confirm this. Upon refilling the level to its proper height to the filler neck, putting on the cap, and starting the engine, coolant will begin to quickly gush out from just beneath the cap after only ten minutes, when the engine temperature reaches the first notch on the temp gauge. I have been through four different radiator caps and none have stopped this behavior.

I have verified that the hose from the neck to the overflow tank is not clogged, and used a ziptie to firmly seal it to the horizontal valve in the filler neck. I can watch it, and it does not leak from the hose. I have rented an Autozone pressure test kit and pressurized the system with the engine off at 16psi. It holds pressure just fine. The mating surface between the cap and gasket is clean, tight, and free of nicks, and the caps are not missing their gasket (see photos).

This troubles me, because I am beginning to suspect there is a greater issue here. I find it hard to believe that coolant is gushing out at the rate it is after the engine barely gets to operating temperature. Part of me wonders if there are exhaust gases somehow escaping into the cooling system, creating excess pressure beyond 16psi that would cause this behavior. But if this is a case of a bad head gasket, shouldn't the engine be burning up coolant over time? It's never run dry or fallen below the same three inches under the filler neck, and I'm not blowing white smoke out the tailpipe either.

Of course I could continue to drive it this way, as most people would. But this small annoyance has been bothering me and I'll be damned if I can't figure out the issue. I've attached a photo of the cap and cap mating surface (AFTER topping off fluid). Any and all insights are welcome. Thanks.

Fluid Gas Tableware Auto part Machine


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If the radiator cap upper seal is proper and there is no obstruction from radiator neck to overflow, then there must be a sealing issue between the upper radiator lip and the cap upper seal.

There appears to be some sort of white residue at the radiator neck overflow entry/exit hole down low just below the overflow hose attachment point on the filler neck. Definitely check that there is not something blocking that passage in the radiator neck, the overflow hose, and the overflow tank passage.

The feature atoman pointed out is definitely worth investigating; however, I'd also be taking a closer look at the radiator lip in the bottom left (almost 180 degrees opposed to what atoman pointed out) as there is obvious rust showing there whereas you don't see that anywhere else on the radiator lip. Based on the rust, I would think this might also possibly be the area where coolant is escaping.

If you cannot find a blockage and atoman's finding doesn't turn out to be anything of concern, then I'd highly recommend inspecting that lower left area of the radiator sealing lip to see if it's not slightly bent (not perfectly level at this point) and, thus, possibly allowing coolant to escape there.

Had there been a bad radiator cap on there long enough with coolant leaking through this area over a long period of time, that flow may have eventually "worn down" and or eroded metal in the flow path, creating a shallow valley that now has problems sealing. That said, I don't see an obvious wear down area in your pictures; however, I've seen some pretty dramatic "rip tide" coolant bypass troughs worn into radiator sealing lips in the past... though more often down in the lower seal lip than the upper. Barring something like that, it also might just be a manufacturing imperfection in that radiator lip and or mechanical bending that has somehow occurred in that lower left area.

If everything is sealed and flowing properly, any problem creating excess pressure in the system should be blowing out furiously through the overflow instead of or in addition to at the cap. Lack of evidence of flow to/from the overflow says there is a blockage or very poor sealing of the radiator cap to radiator interface.
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replace cap and insure both ends of overflow hose fit tight even if you have to trim back end
Well there you have it:
Hood Automotive design Vehicle door Automotive exterior Fixture

I really did not think I’d find anything out of the ordinary with the reservoir, but after a good ten minutes of pulling and straining I got the overflow hose off only to see this.

I couldn’t even poke a paper clip through that gunk, it’s an absolute miracle I had coolant bursting out of the cap instead of a blown hose on the highway. Another trip to the junkyard is in order it seems.

I suspect that before the previous owner replaced the water pump, they used some stop leak to try and remedy a leak in that area, thereby causing this tough gelatinous buildup. At least I learned that lesson the easy way, to not to use stop leak in any of my vehicles.

Thank you all so, so much for the help. I genuinely would not have ever found this out on my own and it’s why I keep coming back to the forum. Much appreciated everyone.
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Well there you have it:
View attachment 72367
I really did not think I’d find anything out of the ordinary with the reservoir, but after a good ten minutes of pulling and straining I got the overflow hose off only to see this.

I couldn’t even poke a paper clip through that gunk, it’s an absolute miracle I had coolant bursting out of the cap instead of a blown hose on the highway. Another trip to the junkyard is in order it seems.

I suspect that before the previous owner replaced the water pump, they used some stop leak to try and remedy a leak in that area, thereby causing this tough gelatinous buildup. At least I learned that lesson the easy way, to not to use stop leak in any of my vehicles.

Thank you all so, so much for the help. I genuinely would not have ever found this out on my own and it’s why I keep coming back to the forum. Much appreciated everyone.
I would remove the overflow tank and drill that plug out and not worry with the junk yard. But glad you found the problem.
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Thank you for posting the answer/solution! At least it's an easy fix, compared to a head gasket or water pump replacement.
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Concerning FabricGator's comment: I have experienced a large radiator hose separating at the cords, resulting in the exterior of the hose looking proper, and the inner portion collapsing to restrict coolant flow. It was an older vehicle, and I believe that it was the long lower radiator hose. Thus the sealed coolant system volume changed. It was an older vehicle, and I believe that it was the long lower radiator hose.
Also, If the coolant over flow hose from the radiator overflow (cap) to the overflow tank has a miniscule leak that will allow air to enter on suction, but not allow water on overflow to leak, it would create the problem. That could easily be checked by installing a temporary "medical IV type" system with a milk jug full of water held above the engine and connected to the radiator overflow connection during a Cold, Hot, Cold cycle.
I would remove the overflow tank and drill that plug out and not worry with the junk yard. But glad you found the problem.
Yeah, might as well remove that useless (currently useless) part anyway as you are going to have to whether you can clear the clog or needs replaced.

Dorman makes a replacement tank on Amazon p/n 603-069 for like $35

I did end up removing and drilling it out. Not sure why I opted to get a replacement at first honestly.

It was extremely difficult to get good access to the three bolts, namely the bottom one, but it can technically be done without removing anything other than the battery + tray. Took me about two hours of messing with swivel sockets and small ratchets to get a good angle.

I’m going to get the cooling system flushed out next oil change as the stuff that’s in the system right now has a bunch of dirt and other contaminants in it and I don’t want to have it clog again.
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I did end up removing and drilling it out. Not sure why I opted to get a replacement at first honestly.

It was extremely difficult to get good access to the three bolts, namely the bottom one, but it can technically be done without removing anything other than the battery + tray. Took me about two hours of messing with swivel sockets and small ratchets to get a good angle.

I’m going to get the cooling system flushed out next oil change as the stuff that’s in the system right now has a bunch of dirt and other contaminants in it and I don’t want to have it clog again.
Did you really have to use a drill?
wow
Yup, that bottom bolt was a real pisser, and the bolts on my battery tray were quite corroded.
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Hey all!

Little heads up. If you are concerned your vehicle is having head gasket concerns, feel free to send a PM our way. We're here as a resource so don't hesitate to reach out.

Hannah
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If you've had no issues over several months with running a little bit low then tighten the cap down and drive it. There is no reason to remove the radiator cap unless you're having a problem.
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