The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner
1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! We just picked up a pre owned 2013 Chrysler Town and Country touring edition van a few months back.

I found out after that the Touring L package has power adjustable pedals for this year and I was wondering if anyone knows if this can be retro fitted into the touring model that didn't have them equipped from the factory. Not sure if there is already a harness there and its just a matter of installing the pedals and switch?

Any feedback is appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,722 Posts
Hello! We just picked up a pre owned 2013 Chrysler Town and Country touring edition van a few months back.

I found out after that the Touring L package has power adjustable pedals for this year and I was wondering if anyone knows if this can be retro fitted into the touring model that didn't have them equipped from the factory. Not sure if there is already a harness there and its just a matter of installing the pedals and switch?

Any feedback is appreciated.
Are you sure the Touring didn't have them? They were std in '11. The buttons to use them are kind of hidden so maybe you just don't see them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm pretty sure. I just checked it out. There looks to be a blockoff plate where the switch should be. But you never know so i will take another look. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was able to take the column cover off and there is a dummy switch that serves as a block off plate. I saw a male white connector that wasnt being used. Could possibly be for the switch on equipped models? Or would chrysler go through the trouble of making different main harnesses?

The pedals seem simple to swap out. I see 6 nuts and a clip for the brake pedal. Will have to start searching salvage yards for a set up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you. I am only adding the adjustable pedals, do I need to do what is shown in the pictures with the harness and computer? I was not able to translate it into English so I am not sure.
 

·
Administrator
2009 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT (3.8); 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan eL (3.8)
Joined
·
2,271 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
600 Posts
You must not modify the harness. This is plug & play. But may be you need programming. If a car has adjustable pedals then the setting for "Adjustable pedals present" has the value "Set" in the TIPM. I don't know if this setting is really necessary. It's possible that the pedal switch don't get the voltage from the TIPM. Should the pedal block not work after replacement then you have to go to a dealer. A dealer can add some sales codes in the Portal dealerconnect. Let check if it is possible to add the sales code XAP (adjustable pedals without memory) to your VIN.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You must not modify the harness. This is plug & play. But may be you need programming. If a car has adjustable pedals then the setting for "Adjustable pedals present" has the value "Set" in the TIPM. I don't know if this setting is really necessary. It's possible that the pedal switch don't get the voltage from the TIPM. Should the pedal block not work after replacement then you have to go to a dealer. A dealer can add some sales codes in the Portal dealerconnect. Let check if it is possible to add the sales code XAP (adjustable pedals without memory) to your VIN.

Thank you. I will install and see it it works and take it from there regarding the re programming, glad to know its a plug and play.



Thanks for the updated link Georgf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I completed the installation of the pedal block and switch today. Unfortunately, it doesn't work fully yet. The harness pig tails were there just tied to the side, I just plugged them in to their respective places. I used the cut harness from the salvage yard pedals to make long jumper wires so I can still move the pedals up and down manually by putting it on a 12v car battery. I adjusted them to a place that was comfortable for my wife. They do not work with the switch in the column however, I believe it will need to be programmed as described above.

After the install, I have a few issues. First, the brake light switch plunger does not reach the stop on the adjustable pedal block. I picked up one at Auto Zone and the plunger is longer, but still doesn't function correctly as the brake lights stay on. I ended up gluing a piece of rubber to the end of the plunger and that works for now, while I research the correct switch. I am assuming that it is a different switch for the adjustable block, or the salvage yard left off a piece because it doesn't reach the stop.

Second, I now have an occasional "ding" sound and on the screen shows the electronic throttle control light (ETC) briefly. I re used my throttle pedal from the original block as it was much cleaner and looked identical to the one that came on the adjustable block. Not sure if those are the same or if I have to switch them back.

Is the computer sensing the adjustable block and flashing me the light? I will have to visit the dealer and see if they can put the computer on it.

Other than that, my wife is very happy with the setup, almost like a different car, much more comfortable.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,507 Posts
You must not modify the harness. This is plug & play. But may be you need programming. If a car has adjustable pedals then the setting for "Adjustable pedals present" has the value "Set" in the TIPM. I don't know if this setting is really necessary. It's possible that the pedal switch don't get the voltage from the TIPM. Should the pedal block not work after replacement then you have to go to a dealer. A dealer can add some sales codes in the Portal dealerconnect. Let check if it is possible to add the sales code XAP (adjustable pedals without memory) to your VIN.
Hmmmm, this would be great to have.

Would every van have this harness?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
600 Posts
I completed the installation of the pedal block and switch today. Unfortunately, it doesn't work fully yet. The harness pig tails were there just tied to the side, I just plugged them in to their respective places. I used the cut harness from the salvage yard pedals to make long jumper wires so I can still move the pedals up and down manually by putting it on a 12v car battery. I adjusted them to a place that was comfortable for my wife. They do not work with the switch in the column however, I believe it will need to be programmed as described above.
You must program the setting for adjustable pedals. Then the TIPM will give the voltage for the pedals.

After the install, I have a few issues. First, the brake light switch plunger does not reach the stop on the adjustable pedal block. I picked up one at Auto Zone and the plunger is longer, but still doesn't function correctly as the brake lights stay on. I ended up gluing a piece of rubber to the end of the plunger and that works for now, while I research the correct switch. I am assuming that it is a different switch for the adjustable block, or the salvage yard left off a piece because it doesn't reach the stop.
The switch is therefore shorter, because you have installed it wrong. If the brake light switch is removed from a car, then after it is in a service position.

1.Be certain that the brake lamp switch plunger is pulled all the way out of the switch housing to its fully extended position.
2.Reconnect the body wire harness connector (2) to the connector receptacle on the switch.
3.Depress and hold the brake pedal in the depressed position.
4.Align the keyed locking collar on the brake lamp switch with the keyed square hole in the brake pedal mounting bracket (1).
5.Insert the brake lamp switch locking collar through the keyed hole in the mounting bracket until the switch housing is firmly seated against the bracket.
6.Rotate the switch housing clockwise about 30 degrees to engage the locking collar with the switch mounting bracket.
7.Release the brake pedal. The pedal will set the plunger to the correct position as the pedal pushes the plunger into the switch housing. The switch plunger will make a light audible ratcheting noise as it self-adjusts.


Second, I now have an occasional "ding" sound and on the screen shows the electronic throttle control light (ETC) briefly. I re used my throttle pedal from the original block as it was much cleaner and looked identical to the one that came on the adjustable block. Not sure if those are the same or if I have to switch them back.

Is the computer sensing the adjustable block and flashing me the light? I will have to visit the dealer and see if they can put the computer on it.
The PCM stores the maximum and minimus values of your gas pedal. The new pedal has other values. The gas pedals has two sensors. At the moment the car has the following 2 or 4 DTCs
P2115 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 1 MINIMUM STOP PERFORMANCE
P2116 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 2 MINIMUM STOP PERFORMANCE
P2166 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 1 MAXIMUM STOP PERFORMANCE
P2167 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 2 MAXIMUM STOP PERFORMANCE

In this case its necessary to relearn the minimum and maximum values of the pedal. But you need the Witech for this. In the PCM tab there is a function "ETC relearn". In this routine you must press the pedal 3 times slowly to the maximum.

I suggest you, built in your old pedal. Disconnect the battery. You must loosen only the 3 screws on the pedal. This will only take 5 minutes and then the warning light is off.


Steffen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You must program the setting for adjustable pedals. Then the TIPM will give the voltage for the pedals.



The switch is therefore shorter, because you have installed it wrong. If the brake light switch is removed from a car, then after it is in a service position.

1.Be certain that the brake lamp switch plunger is pulled all the way out of the switch housing to its fully extended position.
2.Reconnect the body wire harness connector (2) to the connector receptacle on the switch.
3.Depress and hold the brake pedal in the depressed position.
4.Align the keyed locking collar on the brake lamp switch with the keyed square hole in the brake pedal mounting bracket (1).
5.Insert the brake lamp switch locking collar through the keyed hole in the mounting bracket until the switch housing is firmly seated against the bracket.
6.Rotate the switch housing clockwise about 30 degrees to engage the locking collar with the switch mounting bracket.
7.Release the brake pedal. The pedal will set the plunger to the correct position as the pedal pushes the plunger into the switch housing. The switch plunger will make a light audible ratcheting noise as it self-adjusts.




The PCM stores the maximum and minimus values of your gas pedal. The new pedal has other values. The gas pedals has two sensors. At the moment the car has the following 2 or 4 DTCs
P2115 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 1 MINIMUM STOP PERFORMANCE
P2116 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 2 MINIMUM STOP PERFORMANCE
P2166 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 1 MAXIMUM STOP PERFORMANCE
P2167 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR 2 MAXIMUM STOP PERFORMANCE

In this case its necessary to relearn the minimum and maximum values of the pedal. But you need the Witech for this. In the PCM tab there is a function "ETC relearn". In this routine you must press the pedal 3 times slowly to the maximum.

I suggest you, built in your old pedal. Disconnect the battery. You must loosen only the 3 screws on the pedal. This will only take 5 minutes and then the warning light is off.


Steffen
Steffen, this is excellent information, thank you. To clarify on the accelerator pedal, you are saying to unplug the battery, then remove the accelerator pedal and replace it with the one that came with the adjustable pedal block I purchased from the donor car?

Thanks again sir!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Steffen, this is excellent information, thank you. To clarify on the accelerator pedal, you are saying to unplug the battery, then remove the accelerator pedal and replace it with the one that came with the adjustable pedal block I purchased from the donor car?

Thanks again sir!

Update as I worked on it this morning, perfect advice on the brake switch, that is solved and working perfectly.

I unplugged the battery, then installed the gas pedal from the used pedal block which has a different Chrysler part number actually. The gas pedal feels better, more progressive and less touchy, but the light is still on. I am assuming I will need to see the dealer for this to resolve?

Thanks again for your help Steffan, it has been invaluable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
600 Posts
Sorry, I had translated your post incorrectly. I thought you have built in the accelerator pedal from the donor car. But you installed your "old" pedal. That was right! Was the battery disconnected, so you have swapped the pedal block? If not, maybe this is the reason why the throttle light comes on. There are some DTCs which don't delete the lights when the reason is not active but stored.

You can try this : Turn on the ignition to ACC II. Press the accelerator pedal three times slowly down (to the end). If the throttle lights wont gone then you must go to a dealer. He will relearn the minimum and maximum points of the accelerator pedal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Seffen, unfortunately when I switched the pedal blocks over I did not disconnect the battery. I tried to do what you suggested in ACC II, however I am not sure if its fixed or not now. The ETC light comes on briefly when you turn the key to ACC then goes out. Is that supposed to happen? we just never noticed it before. It no longer "dings" however.

Also what is strange is that the accelerator pedal from the donor car has a different part number than the one that came originally in our car. they are slightly different as well. The donor accelerator pedal sits lower than the brake pedal, even with the pedals adjusted all the way up. When we used the accelerator pedal from our original car with the adjustable block from the donor car, the accelerator pedal sits higher, almost equal to the brake pedal. My wife is small so she really prefers it being as close like that but the pedal feels very sensitive, like its on or off. I am wondering if the dealer needs to re learn the pedal and it would correct this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
600 Posts
I believe thats normal. The ETC light comes on and after a short time then goes out. Your problem should be fixed.

From which model year is the donor car? I think its from MY 2008 - 2010.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top