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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Sounds like a good plan. Any pictures of the vehicle? any specifics re model year, engine, miles and such? any maintenance records? outstanding recalls? spare wheel?
Sounds like a good plan. Any pictures of the vehicle? any specifics re model year, engine, miles and such? any maintenance records? outstanding recalls? spare wheel?
Yeah I am an idiot. It's a 2012 Chyrsler Town and Country with 106000 kilometers.
Some rust and bubbling seems to be kind of normal for that van in certain climates. I have some rust as well in wheel wells and bubbling in one corner of the hood. I'll go over the wells in spring with some rust converter. It forever ending cat and mouse game with rust.
Can you elaborte on the rust covnerter you are talking about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Some rust and bubbling seems to be kind of normal for that van in certain climates. I have some rust as well in wheel wells and bubbling in one corner of the hood. I'll go over the wells in spring with some rust converter. It forever ending cat and mouse game with rust.
what do o
Some rust and bubbling seems to be kind of normal for that van in certain climates. I have some rust as well in wheel wells and bubbling in one corner of the hood. I'll go over the wells in spring with some rust converter. It forever ending cat and mouse game with rust.
What is rust converter?
We're in Canada. Any nearly 10 yr old vehicle is going to have rust .....
yup sorry i'm in Ontario
 

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I'm in Ontario as well - not far from the Chrysler plant
 
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Here in Texas old cars like these have no rust, my 1993 caravan really floats my boat. It is others with different ideas that create issues.
There is nothing wrong with your choice if it has no rust.
If you talking a 10 year old car that been driving through the salt for 10 years ... you really think you want to save it?

If the border was more better then it is now, I would say come on down and buy a car ... as it is?? good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
It somehow reacts with the rust. At first it’s white but after applying it onto the rust and reacting, it turns black.
I got Loctite SF 7505. It looks like that particular product is not available in the US



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Did it work for you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Sounds like a good plan. Any pictures of the vehicle? any specifics re model year, engine, miles and such? any maintenance records? outstanding recalls? spare wheel?
Here is a link to the vehicle I am going to look at today. It has a bit of rust in the back wheel wells and it's bubbling on the hood. They are putting a bug deflector on the hood they said in hopes of preventing further damage. 2012 Chrysler Town & Country Touring Touring, Navi, Rear DVD Player, Back Up Camera at $12488 for sale in Hamilton - JP Motors
 

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I am in the process of trying to find a Chrysler Town and Country Touring. I am looking at 2012 to 2016 models. I am noticing most of them so far have a bit of rust on the wheel wells and some bubbling of the paint. Is this to be expected on these vehicles or should I run from any vehicle that has rust?
Run Forest run.
 

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I own a 2014 T&C in the rust belt. Other than the hood corrosion I might see some slight surface rust on parts of the underbody. The hood corrosion is common and addressed in a TSB.
Buying a van in a state that doesn’t use salt or brine on the highways is an option. In Ohio few if any people get their vehicles rust proofed. In the past ten years the number of rustproofing shops has decreased.
 

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Some rust and bubbling seems to be kind of normal for that van in certain climates. I have some rust as well in wheel wells and bubbling in one corner of the hood. I'll go over the wells in spring with some rust converter. It forever ending cat and mouse game with rust.
Bubbling on the hood isn't rust. The hood is aluminum and every fifth generation around here in the midwest that is around three and a half or four years old or older has the bubbles in the corners of the hood. It's a well-known problem around here but it shows up too late for dealers to even try to fix it under any kind of warranty. Every one I tried wouldn't even look at it. Contacted Chrysler, and every time I just got an email back saying the "case was closed" without even a hint of sympathy for the forty grand or more you may have paid for it!

MIne's a 2013 and with only 55,000 miles on it, there's a bit of rust starting on the left rear wheel-well. Not a real great design with the inner fender placed just perfectly to catch and hold salt and dirt! Rocker panels won't show rust as they are covered by plastic, but underneath, you probably won't like what you find.

This is the fourth Chrysler I've had, and it's certainly nice to drive and carry things in, but things like the drivers heated seat needs a new pad as it doesn't always come on depending on how your butt is situated. Sometimes you have to slide a little back and forth to make it work.

The engine and trans have been almost perfect after a few hiccups at the start with an idler pulley on the front. Still runs and sounds like new. Not happy with how the exterior is showing it's age, and I have taken very, very good care of it. The last six years I've been retired and it doesn't get many miles put on it. It's still on the original brakes, but I did have to put a set of tires on it as well as a new battery this last winter. More out of caution rather than it showing signs of problems.
 

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Chrysler TSB 31-002-20 Grp 31. Five pages. If you READ it you will see that the aluminum panel corrosion issue is present on Alfa, Chrysler, Dodge, Fiat, Jeep, and Ram vehicles. On other forums you can see that FCA has resolved or not resolved the problem on an individual basis.
My 2014 T&C with under 100,000 miles had the hood replaced last year. No charge.
Reminiscing about the good old days before galvanized sheet metal was used in cars, if you lived in the “rust belt” you could see rust on fenders and rocker panels in three years. Getting your new car rust proofed was big business.
 

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Chrysler TSB 31-002-20 Grp 31. Five pages. If you READ it you will see that the aluminum panel corrosion issue is present on Alfa, Chrysler, Dodge, Fiat, Jeep, and Ram vehicles. On other forums you can see that FCA has resolved or not resolved the problem on an individual basis.
My 2014 T&C with under 100,000 miles had the hood replaced last year. No charge.
Reminiscing about the good old days before galvanized sheet metal was used in cars, if you lived in the “rust belt” you could see rust on fenders and rocker panels in three years. Getting your new car rust proofed was big business.
Still is around here. Was at a Krown shop the other day. They even do trucks, several trucks he listed off. Then again Highway Departments and such do their own corrosion proofing using Fluid Film or whatever. Working with salt in the winter time can take its toll. We are also in a coastal environment as well.

I consider the application beyond "rust". It protects electrical systems, including battery terminals, keeps hoses from drying out, and lubricates latches and such. The more, the better.
 

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Chrysler TSB 31-002-20 Grp 31. Five pages. If you READ it you will see that the aluminum panel corrosion issue is present on Alfa, Chrysler, Dodge, Fiat, Jeep, and Ram vehicles. On other forums you can see that FCA has resolved or not resolved the problem on an individual basis.
My 2014 T&C with under 100,000 miles had the hood replaced last year. No charge.
Reminiscing about the good old days before galvanized sheet metal was used in cars, if you lived in the “rust belt” you could see rust on fenders and rocker panels in three years. Getting your new car rust proofed was big business.
The aluminum corrosion isn't just an FCA issue, Ford has also had issues with it too.
 

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The aluminum corrosion isn't just an FCA issue, Ford has also had issues with it too.
Most manufacturers seem to have some aluminum corrosion problems. Aluminum requires more consideration than it gets in the shops.

As aluminum finds home on ‘steel’ cars’ hoods, bumpers, keep F-150 precautions in mind

Update: Major types of automotive aluminum corrosion
 
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Starting to see them rust here in the rust belt as well. Just starting to get it on the left rear wheel well, and there was a decent amount starting on the underbody the last time I was under the van. The oldest of the 5th gens around here are also starting to lose their front fenders.
 

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Let’s reminisce about the “good old days” in the rust belt. The fenders and quarter panels would start to rust through on your 1955 Ford Fairlane in three years. Unless you spent the $250 for rustproofing. Then the rust was delayed another two or three years.
 
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