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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 GC SXT 115k
Just started leaking. I'm guessing this is the front seal? It just started leaking out of nowhere. Few drips every 5 minutes. The 10 mm bolt I circled, which is where leak is at, wasn't very tight. I snugged it up. It seemed to slowed leak down, maybe stopped. I'll know in a day or two. What should it be torqued to?
But the real question is, if it is still leaking, Is the end near? Can anything be done to prolong the life and keep me going through winter?
While the van runs great, just inspected, so good for a year, the rot is bad, really bad. Thank you Buffalo weather and road salt. So any major repair $400+ won't happen.
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Lucky that pock-marked oil pan doesn't start leaking!

That 10mm bolt just holds the dust cover on. Fluid is likely pooling up behind the cover, so it's already leaking. If it's not the power steering reservoir dripping down from the top (which ALSO takes ATF+4 transmission fluid), then the torque converter seal/front pump is leaking. Transmission will need to be removed to replace seal, install collar or new torque converter, or other repairs to stop the leak. Looks like you'll be living with it. :) Just have to check and top up the transmission fluid more regularly, and maybe strap some oil absorbing pig matting under the bellhousing and change it out occasionally to avoid dripping on the driveway/parking lot. :LOL:
 

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Poor Van, neglected, never been vaccinated with a yearly dose of corrosion protection vaccine to build up resistance to salt ion attack, i.e. CARVID 19 - RUST. :)

It's not too late for Fluid Film. Woolwax or Blaster Surface Shield (more expensive, lasts longer in splash zone?).

The picture makes the oil pan look pretty bad though. I remember replacing one many years back and it looked way better than yours. Keep an eye on that.

Looks like an engine rear seal leak to me. That's not unusual. My Jeep has had one for years. It's typical for that vehicle. Could try one of those stop leak medicines, say LUCAS brand.

How did you determine it was transmission fluid? LUCAS has a medicine for transmission leaks also.

BAR'S LEAKS has one as well. More dedicated to leaks.

Use per directions, do not overfill, consider it a "last resort".

NOTE: If it's a engine rear seal leak, parking on a side hill may put pressure against that seal and dump out a lot of oil in short order. Solution is don't park on a side hill.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After further review, I determined.... I don't know what the **** I'm looking at! :LOL:
I just assumed I was looking at transmission fluid based on the location.
After Jeepmans and Road Runners replies, curiosity got the best of me. Wiped it with paper towel. It's light brown, pulled dipsticks on trany, and oil, dipped in master cylinder and powersteering pump. Nothing looks like it matches. It almost seems like it's watered down oil.
I'll take another look tomorrow, my last chance before the forecast is calling for snow Friday. Estimated 3 inches to 3 feet.. They have no clue!

BTW I'd love to try a little rust protection, like on the rocker panels...but I don't really have rockers panels left. 🤣 The positive is, with everything rotting away, I'm getting better gas mileage since my Holy van gets lighter by the day.
 

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Your Van is trying to protect itself by leaking some petroleum based fluid to stop the rust. Even spraying cheap motor oil on the rust will help. Used oil will have acids in it but otherwise works. A spray gun does the better job with a fine mist or heavier application.

Is anything overfilled? Parking on a side hill?

"Holy van gets lighter by the day."
When it starts sagging in the middle and the sliding door gap gets wider at the bottom than the top, you have carried your holiness too far. Go to confession. :)
 

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And the quips just keep coming. :LOL: :p

My 3rd gen oil/transmission pans are looking like that. I fixed all the oil leaks, and now it can't protect itself!

We just got the 3-4 inches of snow here - - sending it your way! :ROFLMAO:
 

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But seriously, any vehicle, jeep, tractor, trailer, or lawn mower I ever had, that had that much rust; I would spray the rusty areas with glossy black rustoleum spray paint. I also would spray a rust prone chassis with WD40 occasionally.
 

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But seriously, any vehicle, jeep, tractor, trailer, or lawn mower I ever had, that had that much rust; I would spray the rusty areas with glossy black rustoleum spray paint. I also would spray a rust prone chassis with WD40 occasionally.
A new product on the market:

Paint = no continuous creep of product

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
This is ridiculous. I still can't tell what it is. It's not darker pink like PS or trany fluid. Doesn't smell like brake fluid. And not as dark as oil. Seems like waterery oil. Which I suppose is possible but it doesn't smell like coolant. But I really don't know. Could this be a possible freeze plug? Is it common?
Jeepman, you sure you weren't driving around Buffalo, saw the condition of my van, all the neglect, snuck under when I wasn't looking and sprayed rust prevention oil? 🤣

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That looks like coolant to me in the way that it beads. There are indeed two core hole plugs (aka freeze plugs) located in the back of the block. Unfortunately, access to them would require removal of the transaxle.

Before you go yanking out the trans or scrapping the van I would verify that the leak is not coming from another source higher up on the engine. Directly above the bellhousing area is the thermostat and housing, upper radiator hose, intake manifold and heater hoses all of which could be leaking and running down. A head gasket could leak externally and there are also core hole plugs in the ends of each cylinder head. It is also possible that a core hole plug in the side of the block could leak and run down along the oil pan rail and make itself evident where you are seeing it.

Best method would be to use a pressure tester but one can often locate a leak just by looking and/or feeling around. One advantage to keeping one's engine clean is that it makes it easier to locate such things.

If you determine the leak is from one of the core hole plugs in the back of the block and don't want to get into doing major repairs you can try some mechanic in a can solutions. Some people swear by stop leak products and some people swear at them. A proper repair is preferred but if you only wish to try to limp the van along a little bit longer then it might be worth a try.
 

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Yes, I used a whole spray can of Crisco. After all that travel, I couldn't afford Fluid Film. :)

If it burns, it's oil.

If it doesn't freeze, or get thick when cold, it's likely coolant.

Do you have cabin heat? No heat = low coolant level in radiator.

Check your radiator and the reservoir, the motor oil dipstick, the transmission fluid dipstick, the power steering reservoir and the brake fluid reservoir.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Diagnostics have been put on hold thanks to the Road Ripper sending over his 3 to 4 inches of snow this way.... Along with a multiplier attached to it! And we're not done yet.

Haven't noticed any drop in fluid levels just yet, but I'll keep an eye on it.
Valhallalla, thanks once we get a little reprieve from the weather, I'll start looking around at the places you mentioned. Anything major will be dealt with Mechanic in a Can. Springtime is close and wife negotiated me taking over her new Camry if I get her a used Rogue... 😒.. But she said " not something that looks like your piece of crap". That hurt, 😢 and I'm filling out divorce papers once I finish this reply. 🤣
Van doesn't look too bad with over a foot of snow on it. Atleast all the rust holes are covered. 👍


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Oh man! I've been keeping up with the forecast on youtube's Ryan Hall Y'all channel, and saw the dumping on you were about to receive out there - yikes!! Sorry about the multiplyer. :p

Anything else I was about to say, Valhallalla already covered. Smart man/advice. There is a member in the 3rd gen section that did have a core plug at the end of the block, behind the transmission/flywheel rust through and leak, and drip in that same spot so it does happen. That does look more like the extended life red/pink coolant than any oil.

I've used the flaxseed oil stop leak tablets in a 2001 Grand Prix 3100 before. The engine got really hot once, as the thermostat was nearly clogged shut with silicates from the dex-kill crap GM uses. Once the lower intake manifold gaskets and thermostat were replaced, it still ran hot and made the failsafe thermostat we installed stick open. Then it ran too cold! I removed the pieces of metal in that thermostat to reset it and turn it into a regular thermostat. We'd previously flushed the dexcool out of the system and refilled with the yellow Prestone universal coolant. Then I used a couple of those tablets. After a while the engine started keeping a steady, good temperature and maintained a coolant level. I think it was slowly losing coolant before, probably either a warped head/cracked head from the first big overheat. It seemed to fix it, and we ran it for a couple more years until trading it in for a 2005 Dodge Magnum R/T. That seemed to cure my wife of ever wanting another GM product LOL.
 
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those poor lonely bolts get blamed for leaking like they do. but they are rarely the culprit. the leak is up inside. most likely a trans. seal. bad bad bad seal. and likely to get worse. i know bad me for saying. oh well. i get blamed for going to the doctor and taking poopshit psych drugs too. now who or whats going to fix me ? car problems are easier to fix than people. DOH !
 

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Any additive that is intended to be used to stop seal leaks should be considered a last resort to make it to the trans shop for trans rebuild or replacement. Since the purpose of the "seal softener" additive is to (follow closely here) soften and swell the seals - it does just that. Unfortunately, it is not selective in which ones it works on, and often these additives also swells the clutch piston or servo apply seals to the point the piston doesn't apply or retract properly and the result fries clutch packs. I've pulled apart transmissions and literally watched the seals swell and remove themselves from pistons within seconds of having to dislodge the stuck pistons from the clutch drum. I have also seen the valve seals in older cars swell up like mushrooms inside the valve springs from oil stop leak/seal "rejuvenators". Let the buyer beware!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Quick update. As some suggested here, it's definitely coolant, not transmission fluid. Still cant figure out from where, but former dodge tech said there is a good chance it's the heater tube that runs from water pump, goes above transmission area then towards back. Rusted out. He said if that's it, bypass it along that tube, instead of trying to wrestle it out and tearing out much. That it should be able to be fished through.
Anyone have one go before?
 

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The steel / rubber hose assembly connects to the back of the engine with two brackets. A hose portion connects to a nipple to the water pump housing. Some replace the assembly with a hose.
It was discussed recently on here. I will see if I can find it. Will be back.


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The shorter hose section fastens to the back of the water pump. The longer hose section is on the Driver's side. Are you losing coolant?

If it's oil it will burn, if coolant it won't freeze. Rub between you finger and thumb and they feel different. film/no film
 
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