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A 128 point vehicle inspection includes "what" with regard to brakes?
 

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I bleed the brakes when I do rotors & pads. It's been working fine for me.
 

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I'm not sold on "gravity bleed". It might work for the average person who is looking for "OK" brakes.

Gravity bleed might bleed air out of the brake lines, but not out of the Anti-lock Brake Control Unit or from the calipers, especially out of double piston calipers. On those places you really need a couple of fluid bursts to move air out of crevices.

On very old, neglected brake systems, it might be better to use gravity bleed as master cylinder might be damaged if pushing it out of it's "comfort zone".

J Wikoff's schedule is one of the best to keep your brake system healthy, as long as it is done using your master cylinder and not gravity bleed.
 

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I've never even tried a gravity bleed. Seems like it would take too long. Gotta pump that brake pedal.
 

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I've never even tried a gravity bleed. Seems like it would take too long. Gotta pump that brake pedal.
Doesn't take long. With good flow, less than 5 minutes actual bleeding per wheel.

No matter what system I use to bleed a line, I often end up doing a short gravity bleed for the grand finale.
 

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That's a start. I've had one like that for decades and use it to bleed as well get some idea of the quantity that comes out. The magnet on the unit is a great feature.

Here's a video showing the tool and using the brake pedal to bleed the brakes, but you can just let it bleed by gravity as long as the level in the reservoir is above the equipment being used. One bottle full would be a good bleed for a line as clean fluid should be showing up well before that.

For a routine fluid exchange/caliper replacement, don't worry about sequence - it doesn't apply..
 

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150 point inspection. What about checking the air pressure in the spare tire, if there is one.
That's a good one, also the condition of the spare tire and rusted rim.

Don't rely on those multi-point inspections. I inspected a vehicle for a friend once, at a local reputable Dealership, using their hoist and flashlight. I found a couple of things during a quick inspection, one major - the splash guard for the serpentine belt was missing. Salesman wasn't too happy about that blunder by the Technicians..
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Ok Thanks. That's pretty much what I did. The brakes are fine, but feel a little spongey but stopping performance seems as normal. The older video said that the procedure was for systems without ABS, but I'm guessing works pretty much the same with ABS?
 

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I still have to see one bleeder that doesn't sucks air through the threads when releasing the brake pedal.

But again, it is just OK for the average guy.

Not for me.
 

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I still have to see one bleeder that doesn't sucks air through the threads when releasing the brake pedal.

But again, it is just OK for the average guy.

Not for me.
A little gravity bleed at the end will reveal and release any such air.

Another trick is to push the brake pedal down and use a board to prop it against the seat. Crack the bleeder, bleed and retighten right away. Repeat 3 or 4 times. The same procedure can be used to prevent the line from leaking when disconnected.
 

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Hello - apologies if this has been posted a million times and will delete if another thread exists.

I have a 2013 T&C with 66k. Runs and drives great. Brake fluid is as black as your hat and is original factory fill. Was thinking about flushing it to the nipples, but I believe it's a lifetime fluid. Is it worth the bother? I have a Nissan Altima 2016 with 34k on it and I got it flushed at the dealer today as was recommended in Nissan service schedule. Any idea why Chrysler believe they can recommend not changing it in the vehicles?

Thanks folks.
You might want to consider time vs miles. Most U.S. cars don't call for a change, but it is always a good idea when changing brake pads. Our 2008 SAAB (GM version) recommends brake fluid change every 4 years. I've done that, and the fluid still looks pretty good after 4 years.
 
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