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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2016 DGC, regular non-power sliding doors.
The drivers side sliding door won't unlock so I can't get it open. I didn't close it last, so I can't be sure it didn't close on something.

I removed the plastic cover inside around the latch handle. I can grab the lock rod, but it won't budge either way. It feels like if I force it too hard, it could break a plastic part inside the door.

How can I remove the door panel with the door closed?
Any suggestions? A picture showing the lock mechanism (door panel removed) would be helpful.
 

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Did you get the warranty extension letter (2015 to 2017)? The lock actuator can fail in "locked position", "unlocked position", or by buzzing like a bee. :(

Don't mess with it, get Chrysler to fix it. It's a bear of a job on the 5th Generations.

More on that. The Dealerships don't like doing the work, so beware of their tactics to empty your pockets.:



An alternative solution (click on "watch on YouTube"):

Don't know what else I can tell you. :)
 

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538 RWHP, LS motor, RX7 body
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Needs to be a sticky.

Common problem-- drivers side stays locked (or buzzes), and passenger side will not lock. Door lock Actuator failure. OE actuator is buried into the back edge of door, and hard to access. Cheater process to bypass the actuators is shown in above youtube. The above video is blocked on this site-- you need to click or copy the link to view. It will save you hours, and many curse words. You can choose the EZ way or the hard way.

OP: Drop the seats into the floor, work from inside.. Only 2 screws hold the door on, and the rest are barbed Christmas trees or mushroom's that pop off.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
But, unfortunately for me it is not the actuator. They said its the latch itself that stuck. $800+ to replace the latch.
I had them leave the door skin off so I can take a look. I suppose the $170 was worth getting the door open and skin off.
 

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But, unfortunately for me it is not the actuator. They said its the latch itself that stuck. $800+ to replace the latch.
I had them leave the door skin off so I can take a look. I suppose the $170 was worth getting the door open and skin off.
I was half expecting that this would happen. That's likely BS. It's a common ploy they use to upsell, unfortunately. Sort of makes one want to cross Chrysler off their list for future purchases, and no wonder..
Take a look at Post #2
The 12 Step Deal - Sliding Door Lock Actuators Extended Warranty
5. Make appointment for replacement, a 4 hour job, so they say, and take vehicle in with a copy of the letter with your cell phone number added to it. Save your original, you may need it later.
6. Friendly Service Manager greets you and all is well.
7. Before you get off the property the Service Manager calls your cell with the upsell.
"It's the latch that's broken, not the actuator, as there's no buzzing sound. The extended warranty only applies if there's a buzzing sound. (BS by the Dealership and you know it.) The latch replacement is like $900 for the latch, and the extended warranty doesn't cover it. What would you like us to do?"
8. You say: "I have heard the latch story before so I will just take my vehicle home".
9. You pick up your vehicle and a short time later the Service Manager calls you.
"I talked with a Mechanic and we think we can do something for you, free of charge under the warranty. An 'updated' lock actuator will fix the latch problem." (Updated actuator fix is more BS by the Dealership and you know it.)
10. You reply: "Sounds good but don't know if the actuator that was ordered was "updated" or not, your Parts Department has ownership of it"
With the panel off, the rod to the latch from the actuator and the wiring to the actuator will be visible per other videos. One should be able to check it out when a couple of wires to the actuator are disconnected, I think. Someone with experience using this "hack" should know.
 

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Milemaker13,

After getting really good at replacing the lock actuator on the pass side slider of my 2016 DGC here are some comments:

1. On your van it's more than likely the actuator is stuck, it probably isn't the latch. If you can't move the lock lever -- if all it does is spring back and forth because the rod is deflecting -- the actuator is jammed. The problem with the design is that the actuator is in series with the lock lever and the latch itself. If the actuator is jammed the latch will not move by the manual lever either. The manual lever moves the actuator which then moves the latch. If you want to install the aftermarket "fix" you have to get the existing actuator freed up so that you can operate the manual lock lever.

2. To free up the actuator, brute force is necessary. What I did on mine was to clamp a vise grip on the rod close to the mechanism (away from the manual lever) to allow me to apply enough force to the actuator to cause it to move. When operating the lock lever by itself the rod bends and deflects and doesn't apply enough force to the stuck actuator. Using the vise grip as a handle allowed me to apply enough force to overcome the stuck gears in the actuator (you will hear them ripping and stripping when the actuator finally moves) and then the manual lock lever will work normally. Mine came back to life after 'using the force' but I went ahead and replaced the actuator anyway.

3. The original actuator failed at about 5 years and a couple of months. The cheap non-OEM replacements from various online sources have lasted from 3 weeks to 15 months before failing. The replacements have all failed stuck locked, the original failed stuck unlocked. Currently I am on the 3rd cheap replacement part. Maybe if I had bought an expensive actuator from Mopar then I wouldn't be replacing them so often. So far it's only the one door that has had the problem, all the other doors still have the original parts.

4. You can get the interior door panel off with the door closed. It's a few screws and a bunch of push-type fasteners. I broke a couple of the push fasteners the first time so I ordered a bunch of them on Aliexpress so now I've got a lifetime supply. Haven't broken one since.

Good luck!
 

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Yes, now my door lock is working correctly manually. I have not plugged the electrical connector in yet. Seems like they stripped out the actuator, left it that way and told me it's the seized up latch. Huh?

So what can I do now? Go to a different dealer for second opinion? Ok, if that works out under warranty, how do I get my $170 back from 1st dealership?
 

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Some suggestions:

Contact Chrysler Cares and tell them what's going on.
They need to know anyway. You can reference my experience if you want.

Get somebody else to replace the actuator and threaten Small Claims Court if Chrysler, or its Representative / Dealership, won't compensate you.

I can't imagine they would have taken the actuator out. I dont believe you can see it without taking more of the door apart on the 5th Generation. It would be at the back of the door, hooked to the rod, looking like this.

Font Auto part Handgun holster Automotive exterior Metal


The extra lever is for the door on the other side, if the actuator is used there instead.

"Watch On YouTube". Simple solution, good view of door innards.
 

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If I understand the issue you are experiencing, mine is the opposite. Left rear door gets the lock into locked position when the door is open. Then the door cannot close, because the latch is closed already. Of course it always happens when it's really cold, snowing, or raining. Mostly cold, so it's probably something that's gummed up. So far, messing with the inside handle and locking and unlocking it on the inside gets it freed up. SO FAR.
 

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If I understand the issue you are experiencing, mine is the opposite. Left rear door gets the lock into locked position when the door is open. Then the door cannot close, because the latch is closed already. Of course it always happens when it's really cold, snowing, or raining. Mostly cold, so it's probably something that's gummed up. So far, messing with the inside handle and locking and unlocking it on the inside gets it freed up. SO FAR.
That sounding like a latch problem. The lock actuators usually buzz or fail completely in a "locked" or "unlocked" position.
 

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Chrysler cares started a dispute or whatever they call it. Now it's on me to take it to a private mechanic, pay for the repair, and then attempt to get Chrysler to reimburse. Also, need to sue the dealer in small claims court to get the $170 back.

So, what good does a service bulletin do? Just cost me $170 and a headach.
Thanks Dodge!!
 
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