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Spark plugs and wires 01-DGC-sports 3.3

414 Views 31 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  marvinstockman
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Hi, I’m needing some help, I have 01 DGC with 167,000 made in 🇨🇦 Plant…I never changed my plugs until 2020 my car didn’t have any issues but tho I better before it does..

I really didn’t know much about plugs was looking cheapest way.. 2020 first set I got was NKG V power and car quest wires, They didn’t carry Mopar at advanced.online was to high…

Friend of friend put them in it didn’t run like the old plugs and wires, I read some where champions was OE so Covid hit , when thing got better they were under lifetime warranty, I took them and ask to exchange they said well NKG I got we’re nicked , she claimed I needed platinum So I got the double platinum champion and exchange the car quest wires bcz 2 of them socket broke came detached hope u know what I mean.. so I got NKG wires , I tho might be better wire… since other came apart and these were pre gap supposedly…

so I had family member put them in and now it worst off then the first set change my car acts to crank but not start and when it does it misfires, backfires, and when let off the gas it stalls, strange noise from muffler area like it clogged sound the muffler is new I got walker muffler….

I replaced the ignition coil it had code of #2 and #3 of coil …. before the second set of plugs n wires, I got… I also had code for MAP and I changed that but nothing all before the 2 set.. I can’t get it stay started to get it to advance to check codes again, I heard u have to reset it I try keep battery unplug and don’t erase them..

Sorry on long post- I wanted to explain.. my question is what could cause it to be worst now? I did buy a gap gauge and the plugs are off , I’m not sure how many I only took one off and it looks like 46-48 I read in here some are in 30s and I look on my hood and it says 50 so could this be why? Could it be wires?

I wished I kept my old Mopar wires they look ok i could try to see if that was issue.. they gone..

I’m lost I never been without a car in my life , old cars in past never stranded me like this dodge.. plz help any advice is appreciated.. Ik it something simple has to be.. I made sure my car maintenance

I replaced almost everything except the engine, fuel pump, fuel filter, struts, ball joints, control arms, catalytic converter, crank sensor and cam sensor, oh the resonator bcz the muffler man said it didn’t need to, how can u tell if one goes bad I never had one on car before.. that all I can think in case u all asked..

I appreciate any help.. thanks! I’m gonna post my pic of my plugs they won’t go in order so the 2 really black wet ones from NKGS and the 2 lighter are champions…
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my question is what could cause it to be worst now?
This:
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I can imagine where it could be real easy for someone to get confused with the coil ignition wiring. Especially the wiring on the back of the engine where the 1,3,5 spark plugs get connected to the "out of order" ignition wire coil positions. Please check this wiring order and let us know if it was mistakenly wired wrong and if this is why you van hasn't been running very well.
It is an easy AssUmpTion to make (ass out of you and me) and please don't ask me to explain how I know...
Rectangle Font Parallel Diagram Circle


See above how the 2,4,6 wires go from the left most plug to the left most coil terminal - the center plug to the center coil terminal - and right to right... ( one to one, easy and predictable)

BUT on the back, the passenger side (right) most spark plug goes to the center coil terminal - the center spark plug goes to the driver's side coil terminal - and wire #5 goes to cylinder #5

The coil pack terminals are embossed with the correct cylinder numbers. but they are easy to miss
(again, don't ask how I found all this out)
Please return and let us know if this helped OR when you finally do get her running right, let us know what you did to fix it!

Cheers!
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Also, when posting the spark plug pictures, try to indicate what it is that we are looking at (new plug, old plug, cylinder number, etc)

An aviation mechanic habit that I use all the time is to take a small Amazon cardboard box (I have several available) and I punch two rows of three holes (or X's with a steak knife) and mark an arrow to show the front of the van and number them
1 3 5
2 4 6

As I remove the spark plugs, I put them in their respective spots so I can look at all six (or take a picture) and clearly see what spark plug is from where.

Reading the spark plugs can tell volumes of information about how your engine is running and the condition of the engine. If you post a photo like I described you will likely get several prognosis from out resident engine doctors...

Cheers!
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"simple logic" dictates:
Early 4th gen van + Multiple injector harness related codes + wet plugs = melted wiring insulation on fuel injector harness

Hopefully ECU hasn't been damaged yet, but it can 'fry' injector drivers pretty quickly...
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"simple logic" dictates:
Early 4th gen van + Multiple injector harness related codes + wet plugs = melted wiring insulation on fuel injector harness

Hopefully ECU hasn't been damaged yet, but it can 'fry' injector drivers pretty quickly...
I'm sorry , I don't see any p codes, I see that the van ran ok and out an abundance of caution someone changed the plugs and it didn't run so good after that, then they were changed again and it got worse.

My logic is to always look where the last person was working.
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This:
This:
I will look into that Ik that’s behind the PSP little hard to get to on this dodge. I read ur original post.. i hope u didn’t misunderstood me when I said I replaced almost everything I was trying to say thru the years of owning it Thanks for ur reply
I can imagine where it could be real easy for someone to get confused with the coil ignition wiring. Especially the wiring on the back of the engine where the 1,3,5 spark plugs get connected to the "out of order" ignition wire coil positions. Please check this wiring order and let us know if it was mistakenly wired wrong and if this is why you van hasn't been running very well.
It is an easy AssUmpTion to make (ass out of you and me) and please don't ask me to explain how I know...
View attachment 72303

See above how the 2,4,6 wires go from the left most plug to the left most coil terminal - the center plug to the center coil terminal - and right to right... ( one to one, easy and predictable)

BUT on the back, the passenger side (right) most spark plug goes to the center coil terminal - the center spark plug goes to the driver's side coil terminal - and wire #5 goes to cylinder #5

The coil pack terminals are embossed with the correct cylinder numbers. but they are easy to miss
(again, don't ask how I found all this out)
Please return and let us know if this helped OR when you finally do get her running right, let us know what you did to fix it!

Cheers!
Hello Sir, thank u for ur reply.. I will do that we had some rain here last few days Ik the front ones are right that was easy to check but back ones it harder to see.. I’m going try this soon… I will keep u all posted.. thank u for the illustration to have.. cheers back at u ! 🙂
Also, when posting the spark plug pictures, try to indicate what it is that we are looking at (new plug, old plug, cylinder number, etc)

An aviation mechanic habit that I use all the time is to take a small Amazon cardboard box (I have several available) and I punch two rows of three holes (or X's with a steak knife) and mark an arrow to show the front of the van and number them
1 3 5
2 4 6

As I remove the spark plugs, I put them in their respective spots so I can look at all six (or take a picture) and clearly see what spark plug is from where.

Reading the spark plugs can tell volumes of information about how your engine is running and the condition of the engine. If you post a photo like I described you will likely get several prognosis from out resident engine doctors...

Cheers!
Hello again, I’m sorry I try word it the first set of plugs is what’s in them now champions and I only have one off and it no# 6.. just different angles… the last 2 which has the black stuff on them is the first set I put on here less then 2 yrs if I recall and they were the NKGS V power nickel one, I don’t know what number it was sorry.. when I get them all out try show u… yes that’s why I try post to compare both brands and the one that has black little wetness.. I do smell little gas off the plug and on my oil dip stick, I read something but forgot.. thanks for ur reply!
"simple logic" dictates:
Early 4th gen van + Multiple injector harness related codes + wet plugs = melted wiring insulation on fuel injector harness

Hopefully ECU hasn't been damaged yet, but it can 'fry' injector drivers pretty quickly...
What type of codes are u referring too? Yea I worry about the ECU..
I'm sorry , I don't see any p codes, I see that the van ran ok and out an abundance of caution someone changed the plugs and it didn't run so good after that, then they were changed again and it got worse.

My logic is to always look where the last person was working.
Sorry is this to him or me?
I'm sorry , I don't see any p codes,
What type of codes are u referring too?
I replaced the ignition coil it had code of #2 and #3 of coil …. before the second set of plugs n wires, I got… I also had code for MAP and I changed that but nothing all before the 2 set.. I can’t get it stay started to get it to advance to check codes again
OBD-II codes for coil, map sensor, and misfire can all be related to injector harness... (IIRC, the coil wiring runs near same exhaust crossover pipe)

Engine needs not be running to pull codes, only ignition has to be in "ON" / "RUN" position. You can either use scan tool or 'key dance'..

i hope u didn’t misunderstood me when I said I replaced almost everything I was trying to say thru the years of owning it
Lets go back and clear it up then,
Why was the first set of plugs replaced?
Did the codes for coil and map appear after initial plug replacement service?
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Hello Sir, thank u for ur reply.. I will do that we had some rain here last few days Ik the front ones are right that was easy to check but back ones it harder to see.. I’m going try this soon… I will keep u all posted.. thank u for the illustration to have.. cheers back at u ! 🙂
It is hard to work back there because there is no to little room. I first changed my plugs and didn't know how to remove the wiper cowling to be able to work back there easily.

With a cold engine you may be able to reach around and feel the wires and trace them to where they go on the ignition coil. Kinda like hugging a bear that is backed up to a dumpster, lol

The cylinders on the back of the engine are odd numbered and are 1 3 5. #1 being closest to the passenger side.
The correct position for the #1 ignition wire is marked (embossed) on the top of the coil usually or you can follow the drawing I provided above.

Is your CEL (check engine light) illuminated? I imagine it most certainly is.
You can retrieve the CEL codes by the 'Key Dance' that Atoman referred you to.

HOW: Have pencil and paper ready and sit behind the steering wheel
-Insert key and turn it to [ON] to the run position (just before spring loaded starter engage turn) then all the way [OFF] - [ON] - [OFF] - [ON] and on the blue LED display where you read the mileage driven (odometer) that display will start to show Pxxxx codes like P0147 etc (as an example) one by one until it read dONE... write them down and then come back here and post them for atoman to decipher

Remember, these codes are CLUES, they are not telling you (or especially the kids at AutoZane) what parts need to be replaced. We use these clues to perform tests and read the results and THEN we make a logical choice on what part to replace first. Changing perfectly good parts for discount parts gets very expensive very fast AND then it also creates a lot of unknown variables...
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OBD-II codes for coil, map sensor, and misfire can all be related to injector harness... (IIRC, the coil wiring runs near same exhaust crossover pipe)

Engine needs not be running to pull codes, only ignition has to be in "ON" / "RUN" position. You can either use scan tool or 'key dance'..


Lets go back and clear it up then,
Why was the first set of plugs replaced?
Did the codes for coil and map appear after initial plug replacement service?
OBD-II codes for coil, map sensor, and misfire can all be related to injector harness... (IIRC, the coil wiring runs near same exhaust crossover pipe)

Engine needs not be running to pull codes, only ignition has to be in "ON" / "RUN" position. You can either use scan tool or 'key dance'..


Lets go back and clear it up then,
Why was the first set of plugs replaced?
Did the codes for coil and map appear after initial plug replacement service?
Hi atoman..ok I learn the ignition key on van u can get codes, when my tranny was acting up like 17yrs ago , I don’t recall if in my manual or where.. a lot of Dodge service depts don’t know this , I asked them they said never heard of that.. I understand what ur saying on wire harness…

You said why was the first set of plugs replaced? U asking why or when? I answered both.. why bcz my van had over roughly 160, 000 on it I’m 2 owner bought it like 2 -3 yrs after came out and I believe it had like 40or 50, 000 miles when I got it.. I fig time to do it.. nothing was going on just tho high mileage, getter done..

Now when did I replace them, Ik I said 2020 sorry… after looking at my snap shot pic of the code reader on my iPhone I’m wrong it was 2019 ….The coil first like few weeks after spark plug & wires it seems it wasn’t running as previously, so took it to scan at auto part store.. first time had written down lost it.. went back in got pics .. I’ll give codes only 1 code disappeared after going back it was possible 02 sensor or gas cap they said..
Map sensor showed up 2yrs ago that’s when my car started stalling/ sometimes at store leaving my car acted like it didn’t want to start… then one night was pulling in store my car shut off and coasted in… from there it crank but let off gas stalled… they only way to keep it running was keeping pushing on gas..a person try to help me get it home , he had to floored it to get it home it was shaking / jerking never had that before..

I did reading said take the Map off see if it stalls , it didn’t it kinda idle and no stall did short distance it was ok for few times then it got worst got Map sensor didn’t help..then I put on EGR and nothing…

I trying starting to keep the battery from going dead getting cold.. then it started making a clogged noise around the muffler like clogged .. my muffler is new it 3 yr … I do have a reasonator that not been replaced… I tho maybe my coil was bad out box after putting newer one on now it won’t start.. I just got my replacement batt…

I do have say I exchanged my first set of plug bcz I read the NKG V power nickel wasn’t the right plugs.. they gave me champion double platt.. and NKG wires .. I hope this helps… thanks for trying to help..it won’t let me upload pic, I’m going try another way…
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It is hard to work back there because there is no to little room. I first changed my plugs and didn't know how to remove the wiper cowling to be able to work back there easily.

With a cold engine you may be able to reach around and feel the wires and trace them to where they go on the ignition coil. Kinda like hugging a bear that is backed up to a dumpster, lol

The cylinders on the back of the engine are odd numbered and are 1 3 5. #1 being closest to the passenger side.
The correct position for the #1 ignition wire is marked (embossed) on the top of the coil usually or you can follow the drawing I provided above.

Is your CEL (check engine light) illuminated? I imagine it most certainly is.
You can retrieve the CEL codes by the 'Key Dance' that Atoman referred you to.

HOW: Have pencil and paper ready and sit behind the steering wheel
-Insert key and turn it to [ON] to the run position (just before spring loaded starter engage turn) then all the way [OFF] - [ON] - [OFF] - [ON] and on the blue LED display where you read the mileage driven (odometer) that display will start to show Pxxxx codes like P0147 etc (as an example) one by one until it read dONE... write them down and then come back here and post them for atoman to decipher

Remember, these codes are CLUES, they are not telling you (or especially the kids at AutoZane) what parts need to be replaced. We use these clues to perform tests and read the results and THEN we make a logical choice on what part to replace first. Changing perfectly good parts for discount parts gets very expensive very fast AND then it also creates a lot of unknown variables...
These messages are getting hard to reply, I trying reply to u Fabricgator in upper part of ur mess , it keeps going under my last reply sorry…

My batt been dead for a month and just got replacement.., Ik the codes will not be there usually I get a code say batt been disconnected.,,,,, it’s like if I recall po1604 something like that..

I was gonna take plugs out first and check gaps and shape there in the one plug I pulled is not gap right.. I need check the others…it supposed to be .50 it under 46 I think … I can post codes from previous if u like… but I going to make this shirt mess bcz the forum must be having issues it keep refreshing I’m scared I’ll lose my mess to u have to start over..,,, so any funny spelling words wrong sorry….

I wanted to show my pics from the codes but it won’t let me upload? Idk why..

Po352,po353,po403,po401,po442,po455,po456,…. Ik some code for ERG. Coil, idk much on other.. I did have one that could been 02 sensor or gas cap code but disappeared when I went back to get photo pic of the codes.. thank you for your help to sir.. I check back this evening maybe it won’t be refreshing much…



It is hard to work back there because there is no to little room. I first changed my plugs and didn't know how to remove the wiper cowling to be able to work back there easily.

With a cold engine you may be able to reach around and feel the wires and trace them to where they go on the ignition coil. Kinda like hugging a bear that is backed up to a dumpster, lol

The cylinders on the back of the engine are odd numbered and are 1 3 5. #1 being closest to the passenger side.
The correct position for the #1 ignition wire is marked (embossed) on the top of the coil usually or you can follow the drawing I provided above.

Is your CEL (check engine light) illuminated? I imagine it most certainly is.
You can retrieve the CEL codes by the 'Key Dance' that Atoman referred you to.

HOW: Have pencil and paper ready and sit behind the steering wheel
-Insert key and turn it to [ON] to the run position (just before spring loaded starter engage turn) then all the way [OFF] - [ON] - [OFF] - [ON] and on the blue LED display where you read the mileage driven (odometer) that display will start to show Pxxxx codes like P0147 etc (as an example) one by one until it read dONE... write them down and then come back here and post them for atoman to decipher

Remember, these codes are CLUES, they are not telling you (or especially the kids at AutoZane) what parts need to be replaced. We use these clues to perform tests and read the results and THEN we make a logical choice on what part to replace first. Changing perfectly good parts for discount parts gets very expensive very fast AND then it also creates a lot of unknown variables...
It is hard to work back there because there is no to little room. I first changed my plugs and didn't know how to remove the wiper cowling to be able to work back there easily.

With a cold engine you may be able to reach around and feel the wires and trace them to where they go on the ignition coil. Kinda like hugging a bear that is backed up to a dumpster, lol

The cylinders on the back of the engine are odd numbered and are 1 3 5. #1 being closest to the passenger side.
The correct position for the #1 ignition wire is marked (embossed) on the top of the coil usually or you can follow the drawing I provided above.

Is your CEL (check engine light) illuminated? I imagine it most certainly is.
You can retrieve the CEL codes by the 'Key Dance' that Atoman referred you to.

HOW: Have pencil and paper ready and sit behind the steering wheel
-Insert key and turn it to [ON] to the run position (just before spring loaded starter engage turn) then all the way [OFF] - [ON] - [OFF] - [ON] and on the blue LED display where you read the mileage driven (odometer) that display will start to show Pxxxx codes like P0147 etc (as an example) one by one until it read dONE... write them down and then come back here and post them for atoman to decipher

Remember, these codes are CLUES, they are not telling you (or especially the kids at AutoZane) what parts need to be replaced. We use these clues to perform tests and read the results and THEN we make a logical choice on what part to replace first. Changing perfectly good parts for discount parts gets very expensive very fast AND then it also creates a lot of unknown variables...
OBD-II codes for coil, map sensor, and misfire can all be related to injector harness... (IIRC, the coil wiring runs near same exhaust crossover pipe)

Engine needs not be running to pull codes, only ignition has to be in "ON" / "RUN" position. You can either use scan tool or 'key dance'..


Lets go back and clear it up then,
Why was the first set of plugs replaced?
Did the codes for coil and map appear after initial plug replacement service?
Hi atoman..ok I learn the ignition key on van u can get codes, when my tranny was acting up like 17yrs ago , I don’t recall if in my manual or where.. a lot of Dodge service depts don’t know this , I asked them they said never heard of that.. I understand what ur saying on wire harness…

You said why was the first set of plugs replaced? U asking why or when? I answered both.. why bcz my van had over roughly 160, 000 on it I’m 2 owner bought it like 2 -3 yrs after came out and I believe it had like 40or 50, 000 miles when I got it.. I fig time to do it.. nothing was going on just tho high mileage, getter done..

Now when did I replace them, Ik I said 2020 sorry… after looking at my snap shot pic of the code reader on my iPhone I’m wrong it was 2019 ….The coil first like few weeks after spark plug & wires it seems it wasn’t running as previously, so took it to scan at auto part store.. first time had written down lost it.. went back in got pics .. I’ll give codes only 1 code disappeared after going back it was possible 02 sensor or gas cap they said..
Map sensor showed up 2yrs ago that’s when my car started stalling/ sometimes at store leaving my car acted like it didn’t want to start… then one night was pulling in store my car shut off and coasted in… from there it crank but let off gas stalled… they only way to keep it running was keeping pushing on gas..a person try to help me get it home , he had to floored it to get it home it was shaking / jerking never had that before..

I did reading said take the Map off see if it stalls , it didn’t it kinda idle and no stall did short distance it was ok for few times then it got worst got Map sensor didn’t help..then I put on EGR and nothing…

I trying starting to keep the battery from going dead getting cold.. then it started making a clogged noise around the muffler like clogged .. my muffler is new it 3 yr … I do have a reasonator that not been replaced… I tho maybe my coil was bad out box after putting newer one on now it won’t start.. I just got my replacement batt…

I do have say I exchanged my first set of plug bcz I read the NKG V power nickel wasn’t the right plugs.. they gave me champion double platt.. and NKG wires .. I hope this helps… thanks for trying to help..it won’t let me upload pic, I’m going try another way…
Hello Sir.. thanks for all ur replies.. right now I just got a batt replacement bcz it totally went dead , I was going take spark plug out first look at all of it.. make sure on back wires on right Ik one spark plug is not gap right , Ik it need
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While the injector melted wiring is a known situation with our vans, and it certainly should be addressed whether it is making the van run rough or not (inspect / fix it either way, and move / protect it so it doesn't happen)

If I read your original post correctly, that your van was running fine, you changed the spark plugs because they were old, and after that it was not better, rather worse than before you changed them.

Am I correct? If so you (your friend) likely got something wrong.
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No need to reply to everything and have quotes. Just speak your mind, we are all friends here, having a conversation...
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I doubt the wires are mixed up as to firing order, but never hurts to check. Same for boots being seated all the way (both plugs and coils).

Sounds to me that it gradually got worse. During plug replacement the injector harness may have been moved/pulled/wiggled, if it had damaged insulation it could have deteriorated further and started shorting out. Mileage getting up over 150Kmi (and age) also plays a role if those wires weren't protected earlier.

If you see black and/or wet plugs when you pull them, that a sure sign of engine running rich (too much fuel).
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I’m going to try to edit my post see if I can upload my videos to u guys it won’t let me in replies idk why or pic… if it won’t idk. I did find a video I forgot in 2021 doing the key turn and I’m must of forgotten about it, look up some of codes it has something with injector 2 ..
if I can’t get uploaded it more then 3 codes , if not I come back and post codes.. I have a video on sounding of my car trying to start and making like backfire/ clogged sound wanted u all to hear that .. I got 3 front plugs out but I post when all out and one of them is cracked and 2 of them is not gap right . gap at 39-40 and the other is 47-48 ish.. so what happens if the plugs are off gap and cracked? Wish me luck uploading the videos .. if u hear my voice in the one i was thinking to my self lol 😂…thank u all for trying to help me…

While the injector melted wiring is a known situation with our vans, and it certainly should be addressed whether it is making the van run rough or not (inspect / fix it either way, and move / protect it so it doesn't happen)

If I read your original post correctly, that your van was running fine, you changed the spark plugs because they were old, and after that it was not better, rather worse than before you changed them.

Am I correct? If so you (your friend) likely got something wrong.
Hi, I’m needing some help, I have 01 DGC with 167,000 made in 🇨🇦 Plant…I never changed my plugs until 2020 my car didn’t have any issues but tho I better before it does..

I really didn’t know much about plugs was looking cheapest way.. 2020 first set I got was NKG V power and car quest wires, They didn’t carry Mopar at advanced.online was to high…

Friend of friend put them in it didn’t run like the old plugs and wires, I read some where champions was OE so Covid hit , when thing got better they were under lifetime warranty, I took them and ask to exchange they said well NKG I got we’re nicked , she claimed I needed platinum So I got the double platinum champion and exchange the car quest wires bcz 2 of them socket broke came detached hope u know what I mean.. so I got NKG wires , I tho might be better wire… since other came apart and these were pre gap supposedly…

so I had family member put them in and now it worst off then the first set change my car acts to crank but not start and when it does it misfires, backfires, and when let off the gas it stalls, strange noise from muffler area like it clogged sound the muffler is new I got walker muffler….

I replaced the ignition coil it had code of #2 and #3 of coil …. before the second set of plugs n wires, I got… I also had code for MAP and I changed that but nothing all before the 2 set.. I can’t get it stay started to get it to advance to check codes again, I heard u have to reset it I try keep battery unplug and don’t erase them..

Sorry on long post- I wanted to explain.. my question is what could cause it to be worst now? I did buy a gap gauge and the plugs are off , I’m not sure how many I only took one off and it looks like 46-48 I read in here some are in 30s and I look on my hood and it says 50 so could this be why? Could it be wires?

I wished I kept my old Mopar wires they look ok i could try to see if that was issue.. they gone..

I’m lost I never been without a car in my life , old cars in past never stranded me like this dodge.. plz help any advice is appreciated.. Ik it something simple has to be.. I made sure my car maintenance

I replaced almost everything except the engine, fuel pump, fuel filter, struts, ball joints, control arms, catalytic converter, crank sensor and cam sensor, oh the resonator bcz the muffler man said it didn’t need to, how can u tell if one goes bad I never had one on car before.. that all I can think in case u all asked..

I appreciate any help.. thanks! I’m gonna post my pic of my plugs they won’t go in order so the 2 really black wet ones from NKGS and the 2 lighter are champions… View attachment 72287
View attachment 72288 View attachment 72290
View attachment 72289
This:
Atoman u spoke on my plugs now the last pic I uploaded was from the first set of plug replaced it has black wetness little did u see that the 2 set only had one out it not had bad bcz can’t keep it started .. I uploaded all when out.. Ty… I’m thinking possibly on wire harnesses bcz my friend boyfriend put the plugs on , he probably push the injector harness down to get to plugs being so cramp, like u said possibly it was moved … I can see it all in area it all tight ..
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