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First, when my Pontiac stalled because the torque converter didn't unlock, it always restarted. You just put it in neutral and it would start.

Regarding fuel pumps, the fuel pump on a 1998 Ford drove me crazy, as it would work and then not work. Also, and on a Saab, I had a Chinese made pump fail after two years. Anything is possible, and in this world probable!
 

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Yeah, should only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If it started in gear, something else is wrong.

On that last long post I saw no mention of replacing the coil pack. Ignition coil packs go bad with high heat too, and since it's mounted above the exhaust crossover pipe, it sits in some pretty hot air. I've never had one go bad, but others on this site have. Stuff can go bad and not set a "check engine" light for a while. Just something to check. An old inductive timing light would be a quick way to check ALL the wires (all 3 coils) for spark when it stalls.
 

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2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
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When my Chetty Crapalier stalled from TCC lock up, it wouldn't start until about 30 minutes later. If you were on a downhill, you could get it to start once it got a bit of speed.
 
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Stuff can go bad and not set a "check engine" light for a while.
Or ever.

My '04 Chebby pickup has an occasional miss as you just start to give it gas when pulling out. Usually when hot. It's had all the usual tune-up parts put on it. I replaced the wires a second time because a couple were arcing through the insulation. It didn't help much. Still no check engine light pointing towards the problem. Though it did recently start throwing a P0420, meaning the 245k mile cat is likely starting to go bad.:rolleyes: Time to put a spark plug non-fouler between the rear o2 sensor and the pipe.:)

I refuse to throw random parts at it when it doesn't happen often.
 

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Either the cat or some of your manifold bolts sheared off. Those GM V8s are bad about snapping bolts in the exhaust. Not enough exhaust support, too much engine twist.
 

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Either the cat or some of your manifold bolts sheared off. Those GM V8s are bad about snapping bolts in the exhaust. Not enough exhaust support, too much engine twist.
No broken bolts, but it does have a very slight exhaust tick when cold. It only has the 4.3 v6.
 

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The old GM lockup transmissions had a connector for the TCC, and if you just removed it, the TCC would never engage. I never fixed mine because with the TCC disengaged it was like another car, a great and good car!
 

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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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Sounds like a seized torque converter. Only confusing thing is you said it happens just idling too.
Wouldn't it start and run in either Park or Neutral with a locked up converter? Or, if not, the engine wouldn't crank.

Crank but no start means the motor is turning freely and there aren't mechanical issues.
 
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The old GM lockup transmissions had a connector for the TCC, and if you just removed it, the TCC would never engage. I never fixed mine because with the TCC disengaged it was like another car, a great and good car!
Put a switch with indicator light on mine. I would turn it off a mile before my exit on the interstate. Tried shorter distances, but those were hit-or-miss.

Debating on if I want to rebuild that turd so it can be my oldest's first car. That's the car I made several work-arounds for dumb OE design that I called Chevy Un-F***s. :p It has the coil pack on the strut tower because it melts them in a month otherwise, fully bypassed interior lighting because the dimmers kept glitching, and a bunch more.
 
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Wouldn't it start and run in either Park or Neutral with a locked up converter? Or, if not, the engine wouldn't crank.

Crank but no start means the motor is turning freely and there aren't mechanical issues.
Some transmissions will. The one I mentioned wouldn't unless rolling in neutral. Marv said his would always start in neutral. Just how he said it happens coming to a stop and lurched when started seems an awfully lot like a seized TCC.
 

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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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Some transmissions will. The one I mentioned wouldn't unless rolling in neutral. Marv said his would always start in neutral. Just how he said it happens coming to a stop and lurched when started seems an awfully lot like a seized TCC.
I don't know, this is one of those things where I'm only talking theory instead of experience.

If the torque converter were locked, while in gear the crankshaft is essentially directly connected to the wheels, so the engine can stall when the vehicles slow down. But, if the transmission was in park, the clutches and gears spin freely, so the torque converter being locked wouldn't mean that the crankshaft was locked to the wheels.
The engine would have slighter more load on it potentially since it's spinning an extra 20lbs of mass. But that load would be even harder on the starter motor. If the starter could crank the engine, the load on the motor is low enough that the engine should be able to maintain an idle.
 

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Edy, don't overthink this. I know that my Pontiac would restart, and lock up immediately in drive. What I had to do, that is before I pulled the TCC plug, was rev the engine and drop it in drive to keep it from stalling. Kind of like dropping the clutch on a manual trans.
 

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And the Crapalier was like trying to crank a manual in gear without hitting the clutch. I would've loved being able to start and just rev it a few times to get the fluid cooled, but mine wouldn't do that.
 

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And the Crapalier was like trying to crank a manual in gear without hitting the clutch. I would've loved being able to start and just rev it a few times to get the fluid cooled, but mine wouldn't do that.
That can’t be just the torque converter clutch. No automatic is “in gear” without hydraulic pressure. I worked on a bunch of these, and they always started fine and then died when put in gear.

The problem with disconnecting the converter clutch is that the converter will always be generating heat due to slippage. With the clutch locked up it doesn’t. GM said the transmission wasn’t designed for that extra heat. I’m talking TH125C, which was the one with the problem.
 

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I had a 1989 Caravan that acted somewhat similar. Dealer insisted it was the fuel pump, though I had replaced that only one year previous. He wound up eating the fuel pump. A garage I took it to insisted it was the fuel pump, though I let him know that it had just been changed out, and I disagreed with the diagnosis. He replaced the fuel pump, and "cleaned" the O2 sensor. Had no further problems.
 

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Yeah, should only start in PARK or NEUTRAL. If it started in gear, something else is wrong.

On that last long post I saw no mention of replacing the coil pack. Ignition coil packs go bad with high heat too, and since it's mounted above the exhaust crossover pipe, it sits in some pretty hot air. I've never had one go bad, but others on this site have. Stuff can go bad and not set a "check engine" light for a while. Just something to check. An old inductive timing light would be a quick way to check ALL the wires (all 3 coils) for spark when it stalls.
My vote too--ask at the parts place-common, coil gets hot and fails, check the connections first though
 

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2002 Dodge Grand caravan 3.3 179.XXX miles

I previously posted about this van stalling during long drives. On that thread it was mentioned to replace the crankshaft position sensor. To which I have done. I used an aftermarket one from Autozone and there has been no change. I have not took the van on any long drives but I'm sure it will do the same thing.

Each time the van is driven extensively during hot weather; the engine will sputter and shake (like its running out of gas) and then stall out. But here is the kicker - the van will restart and sputter back out then stall. After 2-3 attempts to restart the van will crank BUT NOT START. after allowing the van to cooler for 45 minutes to an hour the van will RESTART AND DRIVE PERFECTLY.

There is no CEL and no stored codes at this time.

I have replaced the following over the last two years:
Fuel pump and filter (Delphi fuel pump)
Map sensor
Battery terminals
IAC valve
Coil pack
Fuel Injector wiring harness
Plugs and wires
Intake manifold gasket
Repaired all leaks in the EVAP system
Crank position sensor

Here is what I know:
-The van only stalls when the brakes are applied (like coming to a red light or stop sign).
-The van temp DOES NOT GO UP when it stalls. It is normal operating temperature.
-There is no EGR on this van it has the delete plate on the intake but there is a wiring connector where one would go.
-The van runs perfectly fine and has plenty of power l before the stalling. (Which leads me to believe it is not the fuel pump.)
-Only occurs during HOT weather when the AC is running and the engine has been running for extensive amounts of time.
-After stalling the van will start and then die again. This will continue 2-3 times and then the van will ONLY CRANK and not start.
-After 45 minutes to an hour, once the engine has cooled it will restart and drive perfectly. Like nothing is wrong.
-No CEL no stored codes

I have not replaced the camshaft position sensor, but its next on the list. Becuase the problem is intermittent I'm not inclined to take it anywhere because I'm 100% sure I'll get the usual, "We can't find anything wrong with it." I have been working on cars for about 10 years and have plenty on experience but this van is throwing me for a loop. It has also become a safety issue because of the stalling.
Similar symptoms with our 2000. It was a relay in the elec box on the drivers side fender well under the hood.
Sorry I don't remember which one.
 

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Has the coolant sensor been mentioned. there were very similar symptoms that you were having.
i replaced the coolant sensor and majically worked no other problems in future
if this has already been mentioned, apologies
 
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