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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Vehicle: 2010 T&C Touring / 3.8L / No factory tow package

I was recently given an older popup camper from a family member and added a 7 blade connector / brake controller for towing it. Part of the kit that I added to get the 7 blade connector had me add a 12V direct from the battery back to the trailer connector (Fused).

While out this weekend, the propane refrigerator blew out when driving a couple times. I've identified some options for correcting that and may do so. I also found conflicting opinions regarding leaving the propane fridge running. (My parents and other family have always done it this way. Understand that it doesn't necessarily make it right or safe.)

The alternate to Propane is running it on 12V but I assume I'd want to have a relay in place so the fridge doesn't draw when parked.
Questions:
1. Is there some good place to install a relay to control 12V or perhaps an already switched spot that is likely vacant in my fuse compartment and would be switched?
2. Does anyone know if I can just switch the 12V that I already installed?

Between the light controller, brake controller, and existing 12V, I have three 10 gauge wires run back there already. Getting sick of strapping wire to the bottom of the van :)
 

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And I see I've posted in the wrong section. Perhaps I can get an assist from a Mod for the right generation?
Thread moved.
 

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I used to tow PUPs and TTs for many, many years. Like you, I installed a live "trickle charger" wire from TV's battery to RV's on-board battery. This worked for years and years - as a trickle charger wire / to keep both batteries charged up.

As for towing with RV's fridge ON its LP (gas) setting, I would never advise it. If in an accident, the RV's gas valve is ON. Very dangerous. Beside this fire risk, its always recommended that "RV fridges be level when in use". As one tows up and down hills, the fridge is NO longer level (or near level). Does the fridge stop working when not level? Does its LP pilot flame go out? And when pulling on level ground again, is the fridge's gas valve in ON position without a lit frame / lit pilot light? Very dangerous situation as well.

For my previous towing years, I would pre-freeze the RV's freezer and fridge before towing. Turn off its LP valves and fill its empty fridge space with ice packs. Then, pull the RV (with RV's fridge off). If I parked on flat land (for level fridge) for a little rest stop, I would turn the fridge onto 12 Volt. Then, turn back off - before towing again (which often creates in-level fridge conditions).

And if I needed to buy more food (to re-fill its fridge), I would buy supplies "on the road". Thus, always ensuring fresh food - when towing through little towns / villages - as I towed across the country (and back again).

This worked for me and never had problems or blown 12V fuse (on its trickle charge wire).
 

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If you can get it to stay lit, I would run it on LP. I don't see it as very dangerous at all... if it is blown out, it cuts the gas. As for the other, I can't help on the relay but that makes sense to have a way to keep it from draining your car battery if you have to run the fridge over 12V.
 

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Surf:

Also... In many different regions, it is illegal to transport pressurized gas tanks with their valves "turned on / open".
 

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I also usually just load it up with some ice packs ahead of time and have it off while driving. Sometimes I've left it in 12V mode for driving, and I just switch it off if I'm parked for long. Letting it run a couple of hours while the car is off isn't going to hurt the battery much, it will be drawing from the campers battery and your cars, so only half draw on each.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Surf:

Also... In many different regions, it is illegal to transport pressurized gas tanks with their valves "turned on / open".
Interesting video though I’m not sure anyone will get 6 to 8 hours with only 4 degrees loss.

I also usually just load it up with some ice packs ahead of time and have it off while driving. Sometimes I've left it in 12V mode for driving, and I just switch its off if I'm parked for long. Letting it run a couple of hours while the car is off isn't going to hurt the battery much, it will be drawing from the campers battery and your cars, so only half draw on each.
No battery on this trailer and I’m not doing that work too. I think my brother and I came up with a potential solution. I may just wire a relay to switch the 12v on when headlights are on and just drive with them on.

I did put a wind break near the pilot too and will see what that gets me for at least the next trip.
 

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Years ago I went through this refrigerator issue in a camper. The propane ones it those days ran on an ammonia cycle and needed to be level with no vibration. On 12 volts it used a small heater. Some use a solid state cooler that works good if you use a small fan inside to circulate cold air. Another option is a small apartment compressor type running on a 12 volt inverter. this worked best for me. a second deep cycle battery is a must if you run it overnight and carry booster cables too.
As for running wires to the back I used a snake and ran it through the frame and used existing bolt holes. It took a bit of fiddling but the wires were protected.
Good luck
 
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