[IAfarmer]

You can run all 3 of the weights mentioned in this thread with no worries.

Nearly all oil is Synthetic, or at least a blend. I run 5w-20 from 5000-6000 miles with no worries. I use Havoline DS in the 6 quart box because it’s convenient. I may use 5w-30 for my next change since a trip to the NC coast will be happening on that change and it’s really hot there. I may go 7500 miles on that oil since 3000 of those miles will be entirely highway miles.

I also use Valvoline, and would even run Supertech with no worries.

Your engine does not care what brand. It only needs to be full of oil that is 5w-20 or 5w-30 that is changed regularly.


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[IAfarmer]

Doesn't synthetic oil flow better than conventional oil? Therefore doesn't it run back to the crankcase like a scared rabbit leaving little remaining coverage on the engine parts compared to conventional oil. Just saying, watch out for the hype and slanted reports. Currie warns against using synthetic lube in its differentials under hard use and will void warranty if used. Just sayin. All that glitters isn't gold. Actually the additive package for synthetic oil has a stickiness component, so don't worry.

Apparently the 3.6L engine was designed using conventional oil and no extra oil change interval is given for using synthetics. The additive package (the reason I stick with brand names, hard to say what basic package is blended into the house brands), is the performance package for the oil. A conventional oil with a good additive package will outperform a synthetic oil with a mediocre additive package, so says Royal Purple.

I don't know that Royal Purple makes a conventional oil. They used to make the "real thing" synthetic, not from petroleum like most of todays "synthetics" are. "Quasi" I call them. A real PAO synthetic will have a much lower cold pour point than todays "quasi" synthetics. That's one way of telling the difference.

As for the base oil, i.e. the carrier oil, synthetic will do the job intended for about twice as long as conventional before it needs changing. Other than that, price is a consideration, sometimes that Mobil stuff is cheap.

To each his own on motor oil. There are things to consider. Right now I'm using Super Tech Synthetic 5W-40 European Formula in my Jeep. That's a Warren Oil product. To me, it's an experiment. Nothing can mess up that 4.0L inline 6. Except maybe some single platinum spark plugs (another story). Anyway the 2003 Jeep Wrangler engine had a diet mostly of Valvoline conventional oil most of it 300000+ km life and is still going strong.
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My daughter ran our New Beetle dry after poking a hole in the oil pan. I was surprised how well the Supertech 5w-30 Synthetic held on, and how well the engine was coated when I took it apart. The first 2 mains showed almost no damage at all.

Synthetic sticks better than you think!


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