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Seal or Open

  • Seal only the holes that Chrysler sealed

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  • Seal all holes including the ones Chrysler left open

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  • Open all holes including access holes in doors

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  • Other - please explain in post

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My van was rust proofed long ago by the first owner. I was thinking of dumping something cheap (rust is almost non existent on the west coast) down the small holes. What do you recommend. How do I dump it in the small holes?

Just as important can I buy the small stickers to replace the original stickers covering the drilled holes? Or would I be better off getting Aluminum Foil Tape?
 

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Find sheet metal screws that will fill the hole, and in general, leave it alone. Dumping stuff in may be worse than doing nothing.
 

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Corrosion protection would have vinyl plugs. What you are seeing are OE drain holes with vinyl flaps (valves) to prevent exhaust fumes from entering. Could be access holes as well.

Spraying Fluid Film in those holes won't hurt anything, and will lubricant latches and protect any electrical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Jeepman can you tell me what these holes are?

Material property Rim Font Gadget Auto part

REAR HATCH DRIVER SIDE ROUND HOLE AND RECTANGLE HOLE
All these holes were plugged by rust co. stickers.



Car Vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle

WIDE VIEW OF REAR HATCH 2 ROUND HOLES 4 RECTANGLE HOLES


Automotive tire Vehicle Vehicle door Gas Tints and shades

SLIDING DOOR WITH STICKER. IS THAT A PLUG BELOW?


Gas Machine Metal Audio equipment Titanium

DRIVER DOOR WITH STICKER AND TAPED ROUND HOLE
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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My 2007 GCV has the same holes and the same tape as yours. The liftgate holes would appear to be drain holes but I have no idea why they covered the oblong holes and leave the round ones open.

The holes covered in tape on the front doors are access holes to an Allen head screw on the door latch. It is used for adjustment of the outside door handle action.
 

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Wow, lots of holes. Oblong and smaller round holes would be OE and will have paint on their edges. They could be drain holes or holes for paint to run out during the painting of the vehicle or for access for a screwdriver blade for something adjustable.

The bottom of your doors will have two oblong drain holes most likely

There's a couple drain holes per side for your rocker panels as well (back side of vertical edge)..

OE drain holes tend to be oblong, not round.

Holes for rustproofing would typically be 1/2": diameter, fresh cut, paint missing and silicone greased with a push type vinyl plug in place. That size provides ample room for their wands (metal or vinyl) to be used.

Drain holes should not be covered up and tend to be left open, with maybe a vinyl sheet type valve in place to discourage exhaust fumes from getting in but letting water out, i.e. loose on three edges.

The hole in your Driver's door looks OE, perhaps an access hole for adjustments? The Rustproofers would drill a few inches below that hole for fear of hitting something and to provide room for their wands to get inside unimpeded.

The large rectangular hole in your rear hatch is a mystery, the installation of a light or sensor maybe. Nothing to do with rustproofing..
 

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I don't know what was there before, but you've now covered up the drain holes. Remember, those holes are not open to the weather, and nothing is really going to get in.

Why don't you take your pictures and go to the dealer, and ask the people at the parts counter.
 

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I think those vinyl "flaps" are just finishing touches in some cases.
Speaking of finishing touches, my 2002 DGC Sport had matching colored plugs in all cladding screw holes inside the cabin. My 2007 DGC SXT had no such plugs.
Nice touches have value and I noticed the difference.
 

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I don't know what was there before, but you've now covered up the drain holes. Remember, those holes are not open to the weather, and nothing is really going to get in.

Why don't you take your pictures and go to the dealer, and ask the people at the parts counter.
Yes, ask them for a part number for the holes. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My 2007 GCV has the same holes and the same tape as yours. The liftgate holes would appear to be drain holes but I have no idea why they covered the oblong holes and leave the round ones open.

The holes covered in tape on the front doors are access holes to an Allen head screw on the door latch. It is used for adjustment of the outside door handle action.
This is great info thanks!
On some of my holes the OE tape has been tampered with can I just purchase Aluminum Foil Tape to reseal them? It is a complete seal all 4 sides.

Did some googling and found this thread with more info. I can confirm a few things.

-As Valhallalla wrote in this thread post #6 the oblong holes are sealed and the round holes are open.

-As Jeepman mentioned in the other thread in post #9 regarding his 2007 GC. The OE tape sealed all four sides a complete seal.

- Part (02895126), 1.25 X .50 PLUG. Body. 1.25x.50. Left, Right. This part does not mention Gen-4 vans. Thinking of purchasing Aluminum Foil Tape to reseal them.
 

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I understand beat_truck being snarky, but you Jeepman! Say it ain't so!

Anyway, many times the oblong holes have one-way rubber valves inserted in the holes. For you beat_truck, this means water can drain out, but can go back in.
 

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Anyway, many times the oblong holes have one-way rubber valves inserted in the holes. For you beat_truck, this means water can drain out, but can go back in.
For you marvin know-it-all (not:p) man, I'm guessing you meant can't go back in. ;)

As for the tape over the holes on the undersides of the doors, tailgate, etc, personally, I'd remove it and leave it off. These vans have enough problems with rust. They don't need more help by partially or totally blocking off drain holes so they hold more dirt, salt, and moisture inside the panels. I wouldn't worry much about the holes covering bolts either way. If you are really picky, you can cover them back up if you want, but I wouldn't bother. To me, the more fresh air gets in, the better.
 

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I don't know what was there before, but you've now covered up the drain holes. Remember, those holes are not open to the weather, and nothing is really going to get in.

Why don't you take your pictures and go to the dealer, and ask the people at the parts counter.
Not open to the weather? They are outside the door seals. Even air from the rocker panels can come up through the drain holes in the sliding door pocket.

As for the Parts Guys, they operate like robots off of VIN numbers and I can imagine them looking for the hole in the door, or wherever, to get a part number. A very slow process in my experience, trying to find something from diagrams that are overloaded with information. They take forever. Rockauto.com is 10 times faster to look things up.

The best place to go, I think, would be their body shop, or any body repair shop, for something as miscellaneous as that. It might be in the sticky note section. :)
 

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I agree with beat_truck. I wouldn't cover them up. Let things drain and allow the air to circulate.

This discussion reminds me of something from the early '80s. Back then we had the Dodge Colt a small FWD car built by Misubishi that came over from Japan on cargo ships. Some genius engineer decided that it would be best to close off the drain holes on the rocker panel pinch weld to minimize the possible entry of salt laden air on the long voyage across the ocean. The problem was nobody was told to re-open those holes once the cars got stateside. The result was water could back up in the rockers and enter the passenger compartment. The rear floor was the lowest elevation so that's where the water went.

Chrysler finally issued a TSB instructing us to use a screwdriver to open the holes along the pinch welds. But not before we had a few customers bring their vehicles to the shop with several inches of ICE in the back seat floor. It was like a miniature skating rink!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I need more opinions on what to do :unsure: so I added a poll.
 

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I would seal all holes on the liftgate.

No water should get in there anyways.

AC aluminum tape shoild do the trick.
 
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