[LEVY]

Mopar markets no lubricant for the sway bar bushings. None, zilch, nada! The known procedure is to install dry. There was a time when they had a white paste (lubricant?) between the rubber and the nylon insert. That didn't work either and was only available for a short time.

The bushing is subjected to rotational and linear twisting from the sway bar. The bar is always trying to break the bushing's grip. Increased suspension travel with older worn parts may be the straw that breaks the camel's back. It's a borderline design for sure. The bushings on my Jeep are original and working well, not even a squeak, and that suspension has lots of travel to it. Just a better design, larger bushings, longer arms, the bushings are actually sitting on the front bumper.

New brackets may help. The problem is really with developing sufficient compression bond, in a neutral position (use ramps, not jacks), between the insert and the sway bar.

Using say Fluid Film, sprayed into the bushing, will quiet it down (while loosening up the suspension), for a couple months (maybe). That has worked for me, but a new bar and/or brackets is likely the best long term solution solution.

One could add a grease fitting and hole to get lubricant to the bar. Some sway bar systems have that.

Some polyurethane brands recommend a special lubricant (that they also sell, what convenient). My question is, if regular bushings doesn't need any lubricant, why the tougher bushings needs it?

 

[LEVY]

Then say nothing.

And 'marv', if you want someone to know you are speaking to them, you should try clicking the "reply" button. You've been a member here long enough that you should have figured that out by now. Sometimes I wonder if you are ignorant, arrogant, or some combination of the two.

As far as I know, every time Marvin replies, he address it specifically to someone in particular.

When no names are attached, we know exactly who is he referring to.

 

[LEVY]

Marvin has been here longer than most, he knows exactly what to do.

Using the reply button is not mandatory or really need it.

 

[LEVY]

The length of time or number of times someone has added their two cents does not impress me in the least. Hint... Hint.

Someone who is here just to insult others doesn't impress anyone here either. Hint... Hint.

Sometimes I wonder if you are ignorant, arrogant, or some combination of the two.

 

[LEVY]

And, hosing down rubber bushings with that crap is just going to make them degrade faster.

I would not spray WD-40 either, but how about Jeepman's stuff?

 

[LEVY]

My 2016 has the conventional two bolt system. Here's a MOOG bushing for the 2016. What's that brown fabric for?

Friction glue?

 

[LEVY]

This has definitely been a thought of mine; I thought I had written it in a post on this thread...

Seems like it could be an issue, but I've had plenty of cars with bad motor mounts in my years and never heard clunking like this from them, so I kind of dismissed it for the time being and focused on the suspension here.

Sent from my moto g stylus using Tapatalk

Now this is weird. I always have at least 4-5 insured vehicles, never ever replaced a single motor mount on any of those vehicles.

 

[LEVY]

My word ... what an argument ... this takes me back to about 55 years and school where I learned in Physics class about something called Stiction (aka Static Friction). It is the initial friction that stops two surfaces from sliding on each other until that friction is overcome. Then the normal dynamic friction will take over. Stiction is always higher than moving friction.

ANY FLUID film between the two surfaces will reduce the stiction. It's why figure skaters prefer softer ice.

That's what's happening with these bushings. The rubber bushing is stuck on the bolt sleeve until the torque overcomes the stiction. When the torque is greater than the stiction, with older bushings especially, the bolt moves suddenly and hence clunks.

Even a water film will reduce the stiction, but it doesn't last because the molecule size is too large. Oils will work better ... even the very little oils in WD-40 (although they leave the scene of the crime very quickly!)

Some bushings rely on the rubber to provide a cushioning where the rubber is designed to twist and take all of the movement. (I had some like this fail on my old Forester because some nutcase decided that the bushing should be vertical and would therefore collect snow and ice in the bushing web, breaking it as the ice expands! Others are there to provide a "softer" connection but allowing movement between one of the parts and the rubber. These mounts appear to be the latter.

So yes, WD40 is a good way to test these. It won't last though!

My 2c ... now to go hide!

WD-40 is not even good for testing.

WD-40 will damage those rubbery parts. Agreed, if that sound stops after adding WD-40, you've found the problematic part.

But what if is not? Then you just ruined a good part.

Better product would be electricians lube.

 

[LEVY]

Destroys it huh? Quite the generalization. It depends on the rubber compound, the amount used and the propellant etc. Many rubbers are affected by any hydrocarbon based oil but at the same time, many are not. Yes, there are other agents that will also work, but you need one that "creeps" ... this is one of the reasons that water is not particularly useful in this case ... it's molecular size is too large.

All non-lubticated OE suspension parts are not tolerant to petroleum based lubricants, meaning that particular part will eventually get damaged by WD-40, period.

If that specific part is already worn out, water, soap even oil will find it's way all the way through.