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I'll have to double-check the end links, as Jeepman previously mentioned they can back off, but this was the first drive since install. Tops were torqued correctly, bottoms were as tight as I could get them by hand, as my torque wrench wouldn't fit. End links are Detroit Axle and they also have the nut to tighten properly.

Struts are completely new assemblies from KYB, top to bottom.

I'm fairly sure the clunk is from the front, as it's particularly pronounced when sitting on the passenger side front. The rear has it's own noises, as the track bar and leaf spring bushings are worn.

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I have an '06 T&C 3.3 w 164K on her. Having the Same Exact Problem AND I Replaced Everything Just like you did Rite down to KYB Quick Struts...new Moog Camber Bolts, And I did Replace Both C.V. Axels and All 4 Motor Mounts, Still get the Clunk/Crunch when going over bumps (live in Maine...crappy roads) I was thinking maybe a Bad Body Mount where ever that is. I finally gave up.. Were you able to figure out this Mystery Gremlin??? Any info would be Very Much Appreciated...Can't believe we have the same exact problem and did the same exact repairs...Passenger Front Side
 

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Well, I'm at a loss here. I've had this clunk coming from the front passenger side of my 2004 since I bought it. It only occurs at low speed going over bumps and pits, but it's very loud and pronounced when it happens. At this point, I've gone through all the suspension components I can think of and it's still there. I'm thinking maybe it's a motor mount--never heard a bad motor mount make noise like this--or even a wheel bearing--again, never heard of such a thing, but I'm at a loss.

I've replaced:

1. Struts completely

2. Control arms, including all bushings and ball joint

3. Inner and outer tie rods

4. Sway bar bushings and end links

I thought maybe it was the splash guard for the belts, as it doesn't hold together great and kind of flops around, so I both put new pins in it and removed it completely and the clunk persists.

Is there something I'm missing? Could it be a bad CV? The axles seem to be in fine shape, boots are older, but they're not ripped and leaking grease, but they could just be original to the vehicle? I was happy to replace all the parts I did, as they all needed it anyway, but I don't want to throw more parts at the problem and not resolve it at this point.

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I have Exact same problem on an '06 T&C base model 113" W.B. I Replaced Everything just like you did (and then some, all 4 Motor Mounts) Still the "Clunk" But No Performance issues on good roads, cornering hard etc. Even Put a piece of thin tape over the Stut Mount to see if the top of the Strut Pops Thru...(mayve loose not torqued)...Nothing Did you Ever Find The Problem?...I'm thinking a Loose Body Panel on Passenger side but I have been Pulling, Shaking and Still Cannot find Anything out of place??? I'm at a Loss???
 

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I'm a bit "down" on the KYB struts for our application. I've always been happy with KYB in the past and I like the stiffness and ride height, but I just can't keep them quiet and functioning properly. I've got a 2005 with KYB struts and a similar sounding clunk on the driver's side. Replaced the driver side strut once due to the lower spring pad "popping out" and, so far, the pad has stayed in place on the replacement; however, I still have a similar clunk that I'm pretty sure is the strut.

I really think the spring on the SR4039 might just be too short and not provide significant resistance at full extension? If I go over a bump that causes the front end to rise to what is at or close to full extension on the struts, then I seem to get a hard "impact" jolt on the driver side as the front end comes back down. Again, thinking the spring is simply not resisting and strut is "locking" momentarily due to rapid compression as the front end comes back down... causing an excessive jolt. Figure this may also explain how the lower pad escaped on the first one... particularly if the center nut was loose at the time to make the problem worse.

One thing to check is the strut rod center nut being tight as my experience with the KYBs is that the strut rod nut tends to back off, ending up loose and causing some noise on bumps. Ended up snugging them with an impact wrench and that seems to have helped, but my front left noise/jolt on larger jounces is something else.

Just out of curiosity, do you remember what part number was placed on what side of the van? I've got SR4038 on the front right (passenger) side and SR4039 on the front left (driver) side, so it's the SR4039 I'm having issues with. With center rod nut tightened, SR4038 seems to be happy on the passenger side. Thought maybe I had them installed on the wrong sides initially, but I followed up with KYB tech support on this and, following that conversation, it does appear I have them where KYB intended them to be.
Having the same issue w my 06 TnC only on the pass side...same KYB Quick Struts..Did everything you did n then some...Did you ever find the Problem???
 

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So is this worth even attempting to continue to track down? It looks like even if I'm able to resolve the problem, it'll come back in short order.

I mean, it's driving me nuts, so I guess that makes it worth it to investigate further, but at the same time I'm getting exasperated with the issue and it just started to get cold this week

Although, I forgot that with the cold, the sound gets worse, so that may be another clue and drive me even more crazy.

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Same Problem...At my Wits End...Just Hope Nothing Flies Apart @80 mph.
 

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Agreed. I have exactly the same problem coming from exactly the same area and have done exactly the same things you have except the struts; new sway bar bushings and links, new lower control arms and new tie rods all around. Had the clunk when I bought it a month ago and after all this it still does. As someone mentioned it does not seem like the kind of sound WD40 is going to have any effect on. We are talking major clunk here not just a squeak.

In any case my bushings and links are all new. I'm done spending time and money trying to chase this down. I've given up and going to take it in to a mechanic Monday. If you haven't got it fixed this week I'll let you know what they find.
Same Problemo...Did you ever figure it out???
 

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Some noises on the KYB quick struts can generally be reduced by making sure the strut rod nut down in the hole of the upper mount is tight... I hit mine with a torque gun using torque limiting extension bars to eliminate all but the extreme jounce clunk I posted about. Unfortunately, you have to remove the wiper try to do this... or, at least I did.

Eventually dumped the KYBs and got a set of OEM... which did eliminate all clunking but I now have low speed turn upper strut bearing noises on both sides, which is still an improvement in my book but frustrating.
Thx...Im not gonna let this thing beat me...How are Moog or Monroe Quick Struts???
 

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I can't say anything about Moog but I would avoid the Monroe quick struts. I installed some on my 2007 GCV a few years ago when the right mount plate rusted through. I lost just over an inch of ride height and the spring rate is weak. Since then I scrape the chin spoiler on almost any parking curb and bottom out frequently when it's more than just myself in the van. And now, roughly 40k miles later they are starting to make some noise. The noise is not horrible yet but I don't expect it to go away.

My experience seems to be common with the Monroe quick struts. I have been considering getting some KYBs as they seem to be better at least as far as ride height and spring rate. Or maybe even going with some form of Pacifica struts to boost the ride height some over stock.

Still not even the slightest noise from my presumably OE sway bar bushings at ~215k miles.
Thx...I did replace the Bushings correctly as you said (and everything else on the front suspension) Gonna try removing Wiper tray and Re-Torquing the center Nut on the top of the KYB Quick Struts I installed last Feb' 2022 based on what others have said on this thread. If that doesn't do it I will put a set of Moog Struts on. It's not so much the Noise/Clunk that gets me...It is the Un-Nerving feeling that something is gonna Fly Off @ 80 mph...Once I figure out this Gremlin...Then I'm going to Install New Rear Leafs w the Dayton Add-a-Leafs and All New Rear Hardware, Shackels, Mount Plates, Bolts, etc. etc. (just hope the inside of the box frame isn't to rusted, gonna be Extremely Careful when I take out the Mounting Bolts, a 'White Knuckel' moment for sure🤔)
 

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Some noises on the KYB quick struts can generally be reduced by making sure the strut rod nut down in the hole of the upper mount is tight... I hit mine with a torque gun using torque limiting extension bars to eliminate all but the extreme jounce clunk I posted about. Unfortunately, you have to remove the wiper try to do this... or, at least I did.

Eventually dumped the KYBs and got a set of OEM... which did eliminate all clunking but I now have low speed turn upper strut bearing noises on both sides, which is still an improvement in my book but frustrating.
Will most Def. pull the Wiper Tray.. have to get back there to do the plugs anyway...thx.
 

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Just to clarify, are those are full strut assemblies (aka quickstruts)?

I looked at those before ordering my KYBs, and asked vendors, but could not get details on left-right, bare strut vs assembly, etc.

The KYBs I installed have been quiet after I retorqued and used green loctite on the top center bolt. Granted it's only been 6 months. I was pretty alarmed by how loose they were (several full turns w/ no resistance) when I found them clunking.

Thanks
When Re-Torqueing the Top Center Nut on the KYB Quick Stuts...How do you keep the Piston Shaft from Turning?
 

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When Re-Torqueing the Top Center Nut on the KYB Quick Stuts...How do you keep the Piston Shaft from Turning?
That's the great challenge... I've come up with only one contraption that worked for only one set of struts I had and that was to use a socket within a deep well socket that had a "top nut" (similar to a spark plug socket), allowing me to use an extension for the inner socket and a wrench on the outer socket. Next set of struts had different size nuts and I could not find a similar deep well socket for that size... so, that's why I ended up using an impact wrench instead, along with torque limiting extensions.

The impact with torque limiting extensions seemed to work fairly well; however, maybe somebody else here will have a better idea.
That's the great challenge... I've come up with only one contraption that worked for only one set of struts I had and that was to use a socket within a deep well socket that had a "top nut" (similar to a spark plug socket), allowing me to use an extension for the inner socket and a wrench on the outer socket. Next set of struts had different size nuts and I could not find a similar deep well socket for that size... so, that's why I ended up using an impact wrench instead, along with torque limiting extensions.

The impact with torque limiting extensions seemed to work fairly well; however, maybe somebody else here will have a better idea.
Well, ****'s Bells Martha...I Already got the Wiper Tray Out...Sooo I'ma Gonna Gets a LARGE Pair of da Vica Grips.. Clamp Down on that there Shiny piece of Metal ina between the Springs and go back top an Crank Down on Mr. Struts...Nuts...B.T.W. What is the Torque Setting ???
Thx😎
 

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Per the 2005 service manual, "strut shaft nut" specification is 75 ft-lbs (100 N-M). Let us know how it goes!

Apparently we are supposed to use something like this:


Don't know the nut size off-hand though...

OEM tool is Strut Rod Nut Wrench 6864!

Here's one on ebay (May not match KYB Nut though...):

MILLER TOOL 6864 STRUT NUT WRENCH | eBay
Almost looks like an 02 Sensor Socket
 

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Per the 2005 service manual, "strut shaft nut" specification is 75 ft-lbs (100 N-M). Let us know how it goes!

Apparently we are supposed to use something like this:


Don't know the nut size off-hand though...

OEM tool is Strut Rod Nut Wrench 6864!

Here's one on ebay (May not match KYB Nut though...):

MILLER TOOL 6864 STRUT NUT WRENCH | eBay
Can't find My 'LARGE' Vice Grips🤔
 

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I tried O2 sockets, but the slot allows the socket to spread and slip on the nut. Needs to be a solid deep well socket that allows you to get a socket extension down the middle for a smaller socket insdie to hold the rod while you turn the outer socket. More like a spark plug socket...
Thank you...Now I get it...An Expensive But Necessary Tool
 

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Bang for the buck, a kit like this MIGHT be the answer:



Or this one that looks like it MIGHT be a little better quality:

Thank You...This is Just what the Doctor Ordered...Thx Again...
 
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