Beat, you forgot to mention black electrical tape, although it also comes in white, blue, and red.
The Telltale Clunk
Well, I'm at a loss here. I've had this clunk coming from the front passenger side of my 2004 since I bought it. It only occurs at low speed going over bumps and pits, but it's very loud and pronounced when it happens. At this point, I've gone through all the suspension components I can think of and it's still there. I'm thinking maybe it's a motor mount--never heard a bad motor mount make noise like this--or even a wheel bearing--again, never heard of such a thing, but I'm at a loss.
I've replaced:
1. Struts completely
2. Control arms, including all bushings and ball joint
3. Inner and outer tie rods
4. Sway bar bushings and end links
I thought maybe it was the splash guard for the belts, as it doesn't hold together great and kind of flops around, so I both put new pins in it and removed it completely and the clunk persists.
Is there something I'm missing? Could it be a bad CV? The axles seem to be in fine shape, boots are older, but they're not ripped and leaking grease, but they could just be original to the vehicle? I was happy to replace all the parts I did, as they all needed it anyway, but I don't want to throw more parts at the problem and not resolve it at this point.
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I've replaced:
1. Struts completely
2. Control arms, including all bushings and ball joint
3. Inner and outer tie rods
4. Sway bar bushings and end links
I thought maybe it was the splash guard for the belts, as it doesn't hold together great and kind of flops around, so I both put new pins in it and removed it completely and the clunk persists.
Is there something I'm missing? Could it be a bad CV? The axles seem to be in fine shape, boots are older, but they're not ripped and leaking grease, but they could just be original to the vehicle? I was happy to replace all the parts I did, as they all needed it anyway, but I don't want to throw more parts at the problem and not resolve it at this point.
Sent from my moto g stylus using Tapatalk
61 - 80 of 213 Posts
Might as well grab the duck tape and bailing wire while you're at it. A combination of them wrapped tight enough should stop suspension noises, shouldn't it?Beat, you forgot to mention black electrical tape, although it also comes in white, blue, and red.
I think it's the 2021 Christmas edition of WD-40.
Or compliment them on their high level of hearing, you don't hear anything.Or, just tell your passengers:
"Those noises tell me that the suspension is working" LOL
have you checked rubber bushings on the engine cradle where it bolts to undercarriage?Well, I'm at a loss here. I've had this clunk coming from the front passenger side of my 2004 since I bought it. It only occurs at low speed going over bumps and pits, but it's very loud and pronounced when it happens. At this point, I've gone through all the suspension components I can think of and it's still there. I'm thinking maybe it's a motor mount--never heard a bad motor mount make noise like this--or even a wheel bearing--again, never heard of such a thing, but I'm at a loss.
I've replaced:
1. Struts completely
2. Control arms, including all bushings and ball joint
3. Inner and outer tie rods
4. Sway bar bushings and end links
I thought maybe it was the splash guard for the belts, as it doesn't hold together great and kind of flops around, so I both put new pins in it and removed it completely and the clunk persists.
Is there something I'm missing? Could it be a bad CV? The axles seem to be in fine shape, boots are older, but they're not ripped and leaking grease, but they could just be original to the vehicle? I was happy to replace all the parts I did, as they all needed it anyway, but I don't want to throw more parts at the problem and not resolve it at this point.
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Put the front side on a jack stand high up then take a sledgehammer or crowbar to the bottom of the tire going upwards. Should be able to see/hear what's banging around. Doing this solved an awful thunking in the back of my car (was a loose ebrake bracket). Can also use hands and stick them everywhere, sometimes inconspicuous metal shielding just breaks off with age and hangs around.
I'm thinking this weekend, probably Sunday (got a lot of soldering projects to complete Saturday!), I'll get the van up on some stands and start looking through stuff.
I do think the nuts on the end links have backed off, because as of today, I have a new, smaller clunk when coming to a full stop. This also leads me to believe it isn't them that's the source of my problem; but the local Lowes has lots of the Fluid Film in stock, so I'll pick some of that up too and hit those bushings.
I have recently looked at my subframe bushings when I did the control arms and while they appear old, they don't seem like they're in too bad of shape. I probably will lever up on the control arm a bit this weekend too and see if I can hear anything that way.
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I do think the nuts on the end links have backed off, because as of today, I have a new, smaller clunk when coming to a full stop. This also leads me to believe it isn't them that's the source of my problem; but the local Lowes has lots of the Fluid Film in stock, so I'll pick some of that up too and hit those bushings.
I have recently looked at my subframe bushings when I did the control arms and while they appear old, they don't seem like they're in too bad of shape. I probably will lever up on the control arm a bit this weekend too and see if I can hear anything that way.
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When putting on jack stands looking for suspension/steering play, you want the parts to be at "road attitude" so the joints are oriented where they wear while driving. For this, I place the jack stands on the lower control arm as close to the tires as I can without contacting them. Chock the rear wheels and parking brake on, if it works. Letting the front suspension droop is only good for checking the upper strut mounts.
It depends on the type of suspension and what you are looking for. If you checked it that way with a load on the control arm and a ball joint was hosed, you probably wouldn't find it. Best to check it both loaded and unloaded.When putting on jack stands looking for suspension/steering play, you want the parts to be at "road attitude" so the joints are oriented where they wear while driving. For this, I place the jack stands on the lower control arm as close to the tires as I can without contacting them. Chock the rear wheels and parking brake on, if it works. Letting the front suspension droop is only good for checking the upper strut mounts.
You didn't mentioned anything about replacing the motor/transmission mounts...I had that problem on both my '02 Grand Caravan and Dodge Neon at low speed. You're looking at 4-5 mounts for engine and tranny...hope that helps!Well, I'm at a loss here. I've had this clunk coming from the front passenger side of my 2004 since I bought it. It only occurs at low speed going over bumps and pits, but it's very loud and pronounced when it happens. At this point, I've gone through all the suspension components I can think of and it's still there. I'm thinking maybe it's a motor mount--never heard a bad motor mount make noise like this--or even a wheel bearing--again, never heard of such a thing, but I'm at a loss.
I've replaced:
1. Struts completely
2. Control arms, including all bushings and ball joint
3. Inner and outer tie rods
4. Sway bar bushings and end links
I thought maybe it was the splash guard for the belts, as it doesn't hold together great and kind of flops around, so I both put new pins in it and removed it completely and the clunk persists.
Is there something I'm missing? Could it be a bad CV? The axles seem to be in fine shape, boots are older, but they're not ripped and leaking grease, but they could just be original to the vehicle? I was happy to replace all the parts I did, as they all needed it anyway, but I don't want to throw more parts at the problem and not resolve it at this point.
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The sway bar bushings on both my Chrysler minivans have been replaced, and they both show visible wear/shrinking after only a year or two. I can actually move the sway bar slightly. Oddly, I don't notice any real noise. I think any shim you put in there would quickly wear out or work it's way loose. I think this is a problem with no real solution.
This has definitely been a thought of mine; I thought I had written it in a post on this thread, but now I can't find it, so I may have written it and then deleted it before posting.You didn't mentioned anything about replacing the motor/transmission mounts...I had that problem on both my '02 Grand Caravan and Dodge Neon at low speed. You're looking at 4-5 mounts for engine and tranny...hope that helps!
Seems like it could be an issue, but I've had plenty of cars with bad motor mounts in my years and never heard clunking like this from them, so I kind of dismissed it for the time being and focused on the suspension here.
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Now this is weird. I always have at least 4-5 insured vehicles, never ever replaced a single motor mount on any of those vehicles.This has definitely been a thought of mine; I thought I had written it in a post on this thread...
Seems like it could be an issue, but I've had plenty of cars with bad motor mounts in my years and never heard clunking like this from them, so I kind of dismissed it for the time being and focused on the suspension here.
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Might be my climate. I'm in Colorado, very high and dry here, so pretty much every vehicle I've owned, with the exception of my newer one, has had rotted out rubber.Now this is weird. I always have at least 4-5 insured vehicles, never ever replaced a single motor mount on any of those vehicles.
There was only one vehicle I owned that I didn't change the mounts on, but only because I sold it after only owning it for several months.
But, I've never had to deal with rust, that's pretty nice.
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Beardy, keep you foot off the gas, and coast in areas where the van creaks and groans, this should eliminate the motor mounts.
Have sprayed your bushing yet?
Have sprayed your bushing yet?
Think I've done that already, per not giving it gas and going over bumps, but I'll try that today.Beardy, keep you foot off the gas, and coast in areas where the van creaks and groans, this should eliminate the motor mounts.
Have sprayed your bushing yet?
Nope, haven't done anything on it yet since last week or whenever I last posted. Hopefully going to have some time this weekend to start poking around in there.
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My word ... what an argument ... this takes me back to about 55 years and school where I learned in Physics class about something called Stiction (aka Static Friction). It is the initial friction that stops two surfaces from sliding on each other until that friction is overcome. Then the normal dynamic friction will take over. Stiction is always higher than moving friction.
ANY FLUID film between the two surfaces will reduce the stiction. It's why figure skaters prefer softer ice.
That's what's happening with these bushings. The rubber bushing is stuck on the bolt sleeve until the torque overcomes the stiction. When the torque is greater than the stiction, with older bushings especially, the bolt moves suddenly and hence clunks.
Even a water film will reduce the stiction, but it doesn't last because the molecule size is too large. Oils will work better ... even the very little oils in WD-40 (although they leave the scene of the crime very quickly!)
Some bushings rely on the rubber to provide a cushioning where the rubber is designed to twist and take all of the movement. (I had some like this fail on my old Forester because some nutcase decided that the bushing should be vertical and would therefore collect snow and ice in the bushing web, breaking it as the ice expands! Others are there to provide a "softer" connection but allowing movement between one of the parts and the rubber. These mounts appear to be the latter.
So yes, WD40 is a good way to test these. It won't last though!
My 2c ... now to go hide!
ANY FLUID film between the two surfaces will reduce the stiction. It's why figure skaters prefer softer ice.
That's what's happening with these bushings. The rubber bushing is stuck on the bolt sleeve until the torque overcomes the stiction. When the torque is greater than the stiction, with older bushings especially, the bolt moves suddenly and hence clunks.
Even a water film will reduce the stiction, but it doesn't last because the molecule size is too large. Oils will work better ... even the very little oils in WD-40 (although they leave the scene of the crime very quickly!)
Some bushings rely on the rubber to provide a cushioning where the rubber is designed to twist and take all of the movement. (I had some like this fail on my old Forester because some nutcase decided that the bushing should be vertical and would therefore collect snow and ice in the bushing web, breaking it as the ice expands! Others are there to provide a "softer" connection but allowing movement between one of the parts and the rubber. These mounts appear to be the latter.
So yes, WD40 is a good way to test these. It won't last though!
My 2c ... now to go hide!
sbrook, you've said it better than I have!
And I've already left for the Yukon.
And I've already left for the Yukon.
Yukon head north any time you likesbrook, you've said it better than I have!
And I've already left for the Yukon.
Go NORTH not west Young Man! One of the more common examples of stiction are those lug nuts. The rust and crud on the threads increase the stiction. Drowning them in Oil helps a bit IF the oil can seep in. Putting oil on the threads before doing up the nuts can reduce that stiction ... but there are other issues when doing that related to the properties of the threads themselves.
61 - 80 of 213 Posts
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