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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So; our 2015 t&c has developed a tick . All signs point to worn rockers/lifters. I’ve not torn into the engine yet but am preparing for the possibility of having all new rockers/ lifters and gaskets done. My question is; since it’s only for now a slight tick and the van is throwing no codes- how long do we have until a failure? Also; is this a doable job for a mechanically inclined person? I have tools- a work space/garage and can afford to have the van down for a few days. The van is paid off, has 105000 miles and we’ve just put new tires on it. It’s a great family car. My thinking for doing it myself is to save a 1000 +$ and I don’t really know if I want to buy another car just yet for the wife. I also don’t want the family’s primary vehicle to be unreliable.
 

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The sooner you do the work, the less likelihood the cam(s) will need replacing.

Here's a couple of Threads:



The latest rockers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately my problem appears to be on the harder cylinder bank to get to. I’m doing my homework and asking for opinions. I’ve been told that the rear most cylinder bank is a huge pain to access. I’ve been advised to start by doing a lucas/sea foam oil and gas treatment first just to see if that may free up a sticking lifter. My ticking is slight for now but have also been advised to stop driving it if it becomes more pronounced. Is it really that hard of a job to do?
 

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Some on here have done it. Some special tools required. Sounds like you could handle it. Take your time. Take pictures. Lot of information available on YouTubes.
 

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Tick = failure. If you mean how long before you need a cam, it varies. Some need a cam after only hearing the tick for a few weeks. It can wear pretty far before throwing a code.

Only thing that makes the rear harder to access than the front is the PCV valve (2 or 3 torx screws depending on version). Loosening the chain is actually easier on that side. On the front you have to use a hook to blindly disengage the tensioner lock. Also don't have to worry with the front intake brackets, and for that reason alone I'd say the rear is much easier.

No cure in a can will replace missing metal. The tick happens when bearings fall out of place. Don't waste your money.

Job isn't hard at all. You will need an inch pound torque wrench, torx bits, and the special chain tool that can be found on eBay or Amazon for about $30. Used to find them for $15, so hunt around and you might find a deal. A clip tool to remove wiring loom fasters would make things a bit easier, but you can manage with needle nose pliers.
 
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