Without taking off the lower crossmember, it is possible to remove the cover but placing it back on will be difficult due to limited clearance. If you decide to try it, plan on spending a lot of time doing it...
Also, take a very close look at the cover - they are known to rust trough and leak (more common than factory silicone leak)
Thank you, from what I could see the cover looks to be in good shape, Im wondering if there would be enough clearance to remove the cover completely so I could clean it or if it only moves back with not enough clearance to remove completely
Are the cover bolts loose? Mine used to loosen up and seep/leak on my 2000.
I finally fixed my diff cover on my 2000 (3rd gen) a couple of years ago. I was able to get the cover off and on by removing the thru bolt of the front motor mount and jacking up the front of the engine to "roll" the engine/transmission back (at the top) to give more room between the cover and the aluminum cradle. I had also dropped my pan and filter first to get rid of any fluid that would keep spilling into the diff area.
I cleaned all the old silicone from the case and the cover, degreased and all. I used ultra black rtv silicone to seal it on. I washed all the bolts in gasoline, dried them/let air dry and wrapped each one 1 1/2 times with white teflon tape to act as thread locker. Put it all together and snugged the bolts down, and let it sit overnight. Did the same with the trans pan the next day, but I used the rubber gasket and adhesive instead of silicone. Refilled with new ATF+4 and it hasn't leaked a drop ever since.
I know the 4th gen van has emissions stuff down in that area, so that will likely get in the way. Hopefully my setup technique still gives you some room to work with. I used a 10mm combination wrench, and 1/4" drive sockets and ratchet. Best of luck!
I wish it was that simple for me, I have a messed up landlord that keeps telling me about the 3 inch spot that my van makes every night, you see he just black topped the parking lot and now hes threatning to have me park 3 blocks away from were I live cause of the spot on his prescious parking lot, So im in a position were I have to not have a single drop coming from the van, Normally I would do the same as you and just add alittle ATF 4 and forget it, I only have to add about 1/2 quart every 3 to 4 weeks or so.
Yes it is a long post, but I wanted to explain everything and I couldn't help it......I posted this in another forum, no responses in a few days, so I'm going to a different town and country (pun intended) to see if someone might have a good idea here. 2004 Grand Caravan with 133k. I replaced...
Is there supposed to be a glovebox light on an '05 T&C Touring? And another question, has anyone converted their interior lights to LED, any comments/useful info? I have the LED kit that I ordered from China but as it came with no instructions I'm going to do this the youtube/Internet way. :)
Hi. I have an 07 Town and Country Touring and when I was driving to work this morning a few odd things happened. First, the low tire pressure light began to flash and ping, but only for about 20 seconds or so. About an hour later it happened again, only to be quickly followed by all of my gauges...
I can’t seem to find a definite answer on this. After about a month of dealing w/P1391 I finally gave up and dropped it off at the shop I go to when I can’t do something. That and the fact the crankshaft sensor broke off flush and I’d rather pay him for an hour of his time than waste anymore...
2007 G C-van, 3.3 slushbox
HVAC bulbs are burnt out.
FPM says L000PC74- As you can see, that doesn't fit. It does say 'Cluster Illumination,' technically.
Also tried PC160, which were larger yet than PC74.
194- I can't pull bulb from socket, so it's not that.
Any ideas? Maybe mis-boxed, or?