The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

Transmission Interchange Information For 3rd Generation

54K views 29 replies 21 participants last post by  Road Ripper 
#1 ·
Hello folks. I thought I would gather up and post all the information that I have regarding 3rd generation transmission swaps, as it seems to be a topic of frequent inquiry. I have done the 2004 Caravan 3.3L into a 1996 Voyager 3.3L, so I can vouch for these model years. I do not know if any of the newer 2005 and onwards will work.If anybody has anything to add, feel free.

General Information: Transmissions are interchangeable in these vans from 1996-2004 when dealing with the same engine to transmission combination within the same vehicle line (ex 2004 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L to 1996 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L). In mid 1998 a change from round pins to flat blades in the transmission range sensor connectors was made to increase the reliability of signals to the TCM. This necessitates an adapter or cutting off the old range sensor connector and soldering on the one from the salvage transmission when installing one of these newer transmissions in a 1996 to early 1998. If the transmission has already been pulled without it's connector, ask for it. Otherwise you will need to purchase an adapter from a transmission shop. Electrically, the connector pin outs are the same. Just the wire color coding and pin shape is different. Match the wire on the old connector pin to the same position pin on the new connector, then solder the new pin's wire to the wire on the vehicle harness with the color code that matches the old connector. It is also possible to swap the old transmission range sensor into the new transmission by dropping the oil pan and the valve body, negating the need for any soldering or an adapter BUT it will sit much lower in the transmission case. So much so that it will not seal properly as designed. I attempted this initially, but opted to switch back to the proper transmission range sensor and solder on the newer plug. Too much danger of water infiltration (very bad) into the transmission in my opinion.

Regarding physical installation, on the 1996-1997's the flexplate has one 'D' shaped hole. If you install a newer transmission in one of these years, this hole will need to be ground out to round like the other three or, you can get a newer flexplate. Either salvage or aftermarket will suffice. 3.0L transmission's have a custom bell housing that only mates with that engine. Watch out for dowel pins. Sometimes they fall out, other times they stick in the transmission. This is a problem when BOTH the transmission and engine have dowel pins in them! Pull the pins out of one or the other before installation, it doesn't matter which. Just be sure to only have one set of dowel pins to guide the engine and bell housing together. Fluid dipsticks usually need to be swapped out for the older ones when putting in a 2001 or newer transmission. Also, there is an extra bolt boss on the 2001 and newer transmissions. Just ignore it and use your old transmission mount. Now would be a good time to replace it if yours is deteriorated.

Internally, there are differences mainly between different carlines and engines(Stratus, Caravan, Intrepid, 3.3L vs 3.8L, etc) Mostly in the final drive ratios and things of that nature. Generally it is more work than it is worth, in my opinion, to change out with a different carline or engine. Your best bet is to stay with what you have. Not really a problem since the vans are popular and plentiful in salvage yards. But if you are really determined, knock yourself out!

Electrically, the only differences are in the TCM programming from year to year. Things like torque converter clutch modulation, shift points, etc. It is NOT necessary to reflash or replace the TCM module with the one from the salvage donor vehicle unless you want the transmission to shift with the same characteristics. In some cases, this could even cause problems. You can just leave the battery unplugged for a day or so to erase the old adaptive program for the previous transmission. All this means is that your newer transmission will be running an older shift program, with the attendant shift points and torque converter lockup clutch behavior as programmed in that model years' TCM. Yes, following installation you can Quick Learn the TCM Clutch Volume Indice's (CVI's)if you are so inclined and equipped (Chrysler DRB III, Chrysler Star Scan), but you don't have to do it. Otherwise, not Quick Learning means the transmission will shift oddly or a little rough for a while until the TCM is able to create a new adaptive profile for your driving style. Third generation TCM's are VERY adaptive, perhaps too much so, since Chrysler toned that down greatly in successive generations. But it WILL smooth out shortly, don't worry.

Other things to watch for include using ATF+4 or newer fluid ONLY. Change the old filter in the new transmission. Before installation is also a good time to change all the oil seals. Nothing like finding a leaking torque converter or CV shaft seal AFTER the transmission is installed. Oh what a feeling.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
I have been looking for this info for ages, you are the man. Thanks so much for posting this.
 
#3 ·
Nice work, Working...TY:beerchug:
 
#4 ·
I was not aware the trans's in the 4th gens were the same connectors for the most part. If I ever have to do the swap again, I will try to find one from a 4th gen, as they seem to have done their best as the years went on to make them more reliable.

I put a 1996 trans in my 98 with no problems. Its been in there a year and 8k miles and going good. It does act a bit funky sometimes but it was a cheap way to get the van running.
 
  • Like
Reactions: imickey503
#8 ·
andy,

How much clearance under the vehicle do you have to get to drop the tranny? Just wondering if my jack stands would be high enough to drop a tranny on a modifed floor jack and slide it out or whether I'd have to add some more blocking to get it to clear.

Also, what is it that makes the transmission removal so difficult (as compared to your GTO)?
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the information! The only thing I would care to add is that while you have the transmission out, instead of replacing the flex-plate with one from the bone-yard, I would highly recommend buying a **new** one to put in. These things are so prone to failure as it is, and it's such a pain in the arse when they fail, getting a new one is best. Chances are the ones in the bone yard are already half-worn out and will crack anyway just as if you were to keep the one you already have in the van. Save yourself time, aggravation and lots of yelling... and buy a new one. It's cheap, and worth it!
 
#7 ·
2000 was the las major update to these. They have the 5 pinion planitary, the metal tabs holding the pinion shaft and the larger pinion gears. When I rebuilt the one in my 97 I updated everything. I also used the TransGo shift kit, which really isn't a shift kit. It just fixes a few inherent problems like 2-1 bump shift. I highly recommend it.

So from 2000 on you have the best of everything.

As for the 3 speed, I wouldn't even try. It is a very light duty unit and I wouldn't think it would last with the torque of the 3.3-3.8. I also don't know if you could easily get around the 4 spd TCM. If the 41TE is built correctly and not severely abused it will last the life of your van. There are many out there with close to 200,000 miles. Most shops di not build these correctly. It takes too long. You need to get ALL clearances and stackups into factory specs. This isn't a quick trans to do. I used to build automatic transmissions for racing and this one by far takes the longest. Even considering the modifications that I have done to the old TH 350's, 400's, torqueflights and C4, C6's and FMC's to strengthen them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: imickey503
#10 ·
[QUOTE=Working Plymouth;149238
Regarding physical installation, on the 1996-1997's the flexplate has one 'D' shaped hole. I am working on my mother's 1998 plymouth voyager 3.3L. It has the "D" shaped whole. I have a rebuilt transmission and torque converter sitting in the van because I can only get three of the torque converter bolts to line up.
 
#11 ·
General Information: Transmissions are interchangeable in these vans from 1996-2004 when dealing with the same engine to transmission combination within the same vehicle line (ex 2004 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L to 1996 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L).
Does this also mean a 2001-2004 T&C 3.8 transmission will work in a 1997 T&C 3.8 with the adaptations you explained?
 
#13 ·
Be sure your pin outs are the same for the harness.:beerchug:
 
  • Like
Reactions: imickey503
#15 ·
This from the first post on this thread, see the highlighted text.

PS: The OP hasn't been active on this site in over ten years...:eekkkk:

Hello folks. I thought I would gather up and post all the information that I have regarding 3rd generation transmission swaps, as it seems to be a topic of frequent inquiry. I have done the 2004 Caravan 3.3L into a 1996 Voyager 3.3L, so I can vouch for these model years. I do not know if any of the newer 2005 and onwards will work.If anybody has anything to add, feel free.

General Information: Transmissions are interchangeable in these vans from 1996-2004 when dealing with the same engine to transmission combination within the same vehicle line (ex 2004 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L to 1996 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L). In mid 1998 a change from round pins to flat blades in the transmission range sensor connectors was made to increase the reliability of signals to the TCM. This necessitates an adapter or cutting off the old range sensor connector and soldering on the one from the salvage transmission when installing one of these newer transmissions in a 1996 to early 1998. If the transmission has already been pulled without it's connector, ask for it. Otherwise you will need to purchase an adapter from a transmission shop. Electrically, the connector pin outs are the same. Just the wire color coding and pin shape is different. Match the wire on the old connector pin to the same position pin on the new connector, then solder the new pin's wire to the wire on the vehicle harness with the color code that matches the old connector. It is also possible to swap the old transmission range sensor into the new transmission by dropping the oil pan and the valve body, negating the need for any soldering or an adapter BUT it will sit much lower in the transmission case. So much so that it will not seal properly as designed. I attempted this initially, but opted to switch back to the proper transmission range sensor and solder on the newer plug. Too much danger of water infiltration (very bad) into the transmission in my opinion.

Regarding physical installation, on the 1996-1997's the flexplate has one 'D' shaped hole. If you install a newer transmission in one of these years, this hole will need to be ground out to round like the other three or, you can get a newer flexplate. Either salvage or aftermarket will suffice. 3.0L transmission's have a custom bell housing that only mates with that engine. Watch out for dowel pins. Sometimes they fall out, other times they stick in the transmission. This is a problem when BOTH the transmission and engine have dowel pins in them! Pull the pins out of one or the other before installation, it doesn't matter which. Just be sure to only have one set of dowel pins to guide the engine and bell housing together. Fluid dipsticks usually need to be swapped out for the older ones when putting in a 2001 or newer transmission. Also, there is an extra bolt boss on the 2001 and newer transmissions. Just ignore it and use your old transmission mount. Now would be a good time to replace it if yours is deteriorated.

Internally, there are differences mainly between different carlines and engines(Stratus, Caravan, Intrepid, 3.3L vs 3.8L, etc) Mostly in the final drive ratios and things of that nature. Generally it is more work than it is worth, in my opinion, to change out with a different carline or engine. Your best bet is to stay with what you have. Not really a problem since the vans are popular and plentiful in salvage yards. But if you are really determined, knock yourself out!

Electrically, the only differences are in the TCM programming from year to year. Things like torque converter clutch modulation, shift points, etc. It is NOT necessary to reflash or replace the TCM module with the one from the salvage donor vehicle unless you want the transmission to shift with the same characteristics. In some cases, this could even cause problems. You can just leave the battery unplugged for a day or so to erase the old adaptive program for the previous transmission. All this means is that your newer transmission will be running an older shift program, with the attendant shift points and torque converter lockup clutch behavior as programmed in that model years' TCM. Yes, following installation you can Quick Learn the TCM Clutch Volume Indice's (CVI's)if you are so inclined and equipped (Chrysler DRB III, Chrysler Star Scan), but you don't have to do it. Otherwise, not Quick Learning means the transmission will shift oddly or a little rough for a while until the TCM is able to create a new adaptive profile for your driving style. Third generation TCM's are VERY adaptive, perhaps too much so, since Chrysler toned that down greatly in successive generations. But it WILL smooth out shortly, don't worry.

Other things to watch for include using ATF+4 or newer fluid ONLY. Change the old filter in the new transmission. Before installation is also a good time to change all the oil seals. Nothing like finding a leaking torque converter or CV shaft seal AFTER the transmission is installed. Oh what a feeling.
 
#16 ·
1999 Dodge Caravan 3.3 engine into 2003 Chrysler Town & Country 3.3.

I have a 1999 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3 liter and 2003 Chrysler Town & Country LX 3.3 liter. Can I put the 1999 engine into the 2003 van? The 2003 van's engine is "knocking". What difficulties will I face and is there other research that I may read with regards to this engine swap? Thanks. What is the cost of a mechanic to do this?
 
#17 ·
#18 ·
Hello folks. I thought I would gather up and post all the information that I have regarding 3rd generation transmission swaps, as it seems to be a topic of frequent inquiry. I have done the 2004 Caravan 3.3L into a 1996 Voyager 3.3L, so I can vouch for these model years. I do not know if any of the newer 2005 and onwards will work.If anybody has anything to add, feel free.

General Information: Transmissions are interchangeable in these vans from 1996-2004 when dealing with the same engine to transmission combination within the same vehicle line (ex 2004 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L to 1996 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L). In mid 1998 a change from round pins to flat blades in the transmission range sensor connectors was made to increase the reliability of signals to the TCM. This necessitates an adapter or cutting off the old range sensor connector and soldering on the one from the salvage transmission when installing one of these newer transmissions in a 1996 to early 1998. If the transmission has already been pulled without it's connector, ask for it. Otherwise you will need to purchase an adapter from a transmission shop. Electrically, the connector pin outs are the same. Just the wire color coding and pin shape is different. Match the wire on the old connector pin to the same position pin on the new connector, then solder the new pin's wire to the wire on the vehicle harness with the color code that matches the old connector. It is also possible to swap the old transmission range sensor into the new transmission by dropping the oil pan and the valve body, negating the need for any soldering or an adapter BUT it will sit much lower in the transmission case. So much so that it will not seal properly as designed. I attempted this initially, but opted to switch back to the proper transmission range sensor and solder on the newer plug. Too much danger of water infiltration (very bad) into the transmission in my opinion.

Regarding physical installation, on the 1996-1997's the flexplate has one 'D' shaped hole. If you install a newer transmission in one of these years, this hole will need to be ground out to round like the other three or, you can get a newer flexplate. Either salvage or aftermarket will suffice. 3.0L transmission's have a custom bell housing that only mates with that engine. Watch out for dowel pins. Sometimes they fall out, other times they stick in the transmission. This is a problem when BOTH the transmission and engine have dowel pins in them! Pull the pins out of one or the other before installation, it doesn't matter which. Just be sure to only have one set of dowel pins to guide the engine and bell housing together. Fluid dipsticks usually need to be swapped out for the older ones when putting in a 2001 or newer transmission. Also, there is an extra bolt boss on the 2001 and newer transmissions. Just ignore it and use your old transmission mount. Now would be a good time to replace it if yours is deteriorated.

Internally, there are differences mainly between different carlines and engines(Stratus, Caravan, Intrepid, 3.3L vs 3.8L, etc) Mostly in the final drive ratios and things of that nature. Generally it is more work than it is worth, in my opinion, to change out with a different carline or engine. Your best bet is to stay with what you have. Not really a problem since the vans are popular and plentiful in salvage yards. But if you are really determined, knock yourself out!

Electrically, the only differences are in the TCM programming from year to year. Things like torque converter clutch modulation, shift points, etc. It is NOT necessary to reflash or replace the TCM module with the one from the salvage donor vehicle unless you want the transmission to shift with the same characteristics. In some cases, this could even cause problems. You can just leave the battery unplugged for a day or so to erase the old adaptive program for the previous transmission. All this means is that your newer transmission will be running an older shift program, with the attendant shift points and torque converter lockup clutch behavior as programmed in that model years' TCM. Yes, following installation you can Quick Learn the TCM Clutch Volume Indice's (CVI's)if you are so inclined and equipped (Chrysler DRB III, Chrysler Star Scan), but you don't have to do it. Otherwise, not Quick Learning means the transmission will shift oddly or a little rough for a while until the TCM is able to create a new adaptive profile for your driving style. Third generation TCM's are VERY adaptive, perhaps too much so, since Chrysler toned that down greatly in successive generations. But it WILL smooth out shortly, don't worry.

Other things to watch for include using ATF+4 or newer fluid ONLY. Change the old filter in the new transmission. Before installation is also a good time to change all the oil seals. Nothing like finding a leaking torque converter or CV shaft seal AFTER the transmission is installed. Oh what a feeling.
So if I get a used transmission that has the same style of pins, do I still need to swap connectors? Also do you have a part number or a link to the electrical adapter? Im doing a tranny in a 98 Grand Voyager. Thanks!
 
#19 ·
So can the 2005 to 2007 trannies be swapped onto 3rd gen minivans?

This thread has only covered up to 2004.
 
#20 ·
Good info. I'll just add that I think by 1999 the A-604 (V-6 minivans) had been made very robust. I think a good rebuild kit will apply most of these improvements to earlier transmissions. Some were simple, like better sealing and a cut-out in the gasket for the "piston" at the very bottom of the input section (first part which bolts into the case). I recently rebuilt our 2002 T&C. The kit instructions strongly suggested getting a later part for ~1995 and earlier transmissions, I recall it is the input shaft and shell (1st assembly after oil pump) though didn't apply to me. I recall it said you can buy those parts as a kit from dealers. Another post here says that 2000+ have a more rugged planetary, but probably not essential unless you race your minivan.

If you ever need to remove the transmission, say to replace a flex-plate and rear crankshaft seal, I recommend rebuilding it, if say 150K miles since the last rebuild. That is because removing it is over half the work. Might be unneeded since this is my second time in-there and both times I found the clutch plates and steel plates barely worn (1 mil) and the rubber still fresh (over 150K miles). The bearings and bushings were all still good (silver surface, only a few spots of copper showing on some thrust washers). At least remove the clutch packs to inspect, which requires removing the valve body. Last pass was to fix a front leak, which I suspect was due to a crack in the torque converter at a pad (didn't change it last time), so if nothing else I suggest replacing the torque converter if tranny comes off. If you have AWD, I suggest unbolting the transfer case first as trying to align it on re-assembly is tough and risks damaging a shaft seal. I didn't, so speaking as an idiot.
 
#21 · (Edited)
If you ever need to remove the transmission, say to replace a flex-plate and rear crankshaft seal, I recommend rebuilding it, if say 150K miles since the last rebuild. That is because removing it is over half the work. Might be unneeded since this is my second time in-there and both times I found the clutch plates and steel plates barely worn (1 mil) and the rubber still fresh (over 150K miles). The bearings and bushings were all still good (silver surface, only a few spots of copper showing on some thrust washers). At least remove the clutch packs to inspect, which requires removing the valve body. Last pass was to fix a front leak, which I suspect was due to a crack in the torque converter at a pad (didn't change it last time), so if nothing else I suggest replacing the torque converter if tranny comes off. If you have AWD, I suggest unbolting the transfer case first as trying to align it on re-assembly is tough and risks damaging a shaft seal. I didn't, so speaking as an idiot.
I'd love to rebuild my tranny, when I drop it, but I don't have the knowledge at this point. However, I do plan on picking up a 4th gen tranny--2001 to 2004--to do the practice. There are lots of videos at YouTube and some tutorial literatures online.

This brings up the question of which master overhaul kit to buy? There are a few aftermarket ones at RockAuto, for instance. Or should I go with the Mopar Master rebuild kit. If so, where to buy? Dealer? They love to rip you off, lol!

With my knowledge level at this point, when I drop the tranny, I can/will replace the torque converter, replace the front oil pump, remove the diff cover to inspect the diff pin or differential cross shaft to see if it has moved.

EDIT: found this Mopar master overhaul kit at Amazon. One review says that it does NOT include the bushing kit. Don't know what that means. Otherwise, everything else is included.

 
#22 ·
Don't know if anyone can answer these questions:

The OP said in his original post that in mid 1998, the range sensor was changed from round pins to flat pins.

Q 1: How about other sensors--input, output, solenoid? Any change in their connectors? From round pins to flat pins?

Q 2: My van is a 99--build moth/year: June 1999. So the range sensor in my van should be flat? (I have gotten around to checking it.)
 
#23 ·
I use the Rock Auto catalog to answer questions like these. You can go to their site and find your year of van, engine, and the part you want. Find a part, and click on the part number in BLUE, and it will show a list of vehicles and years that same part was used in. It's like a quick interchange guide. Works best when the interchange list is short, unlike looking up a lug nut or something LOL. :ROFLMAO:

Yep, you should have flat pins in 1999. If they are round and the harness connector was spliced on, someone put an earlier transmission in there.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I use the Rock Auto catalog to answer questions like these. You can go to their site and find your year of van, engine, and the part you want. Find a part, and click on the part number in BLUE, and it will show a list of vehicles and years that same part was used in. It's like a quick interchange guide. Works best when the interchange list is short, unlike looking up a lug nut or something LOL. :ROFLMAO:

Yep, you should have flat pins in 1999. If they are round and the harness connector was spliced on, someone put an earlier transmission in there.
I use RockAuto to obtain interchange info all the time, Dan. In this case, I am not sure if they sell range sensors or their connectors, and if they do, I am not sure if they sell input, output, or solenoid sensors and connectors.

There's no splice in the connectors in my tranny. I am pretty certain that the tranny in my van is the original, which is almost a miracle at almost 200K miles.

EDIT: I just did a quick check at RockAuto via a comparison between my 99 TC, Limited and a hypothetical 04 3.8L motor. It seems that the range sensor from 10/98 onwards was changed to the flat pins. Before that, it was the round pins. The input, output and solenoid connectors are all round pins throughout 3rd and 4th gens.

This is good news to me, as I have been thinking about harvesting a 4th gen tranny as a backup or spare. I want to learn to re-build it. In my case, a 99 TC, Limited, a tranny from a 4th gen will just drop in, no need for any mod to any of the sensor connectors.

One question I asked earlier in this thread was never answered, namely, the interchangeability of the trannies from 2005 to 2007 with 3rd gens. The OP of this thread has only mentioned the interchangeability of 2001 to 2004 trannies with 3rd gen's.

I thank you for the tip, Dan! As I said, I use RockAuto to check interchange info all the time. It's just that this time it didn't occur to me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Road Ripper
#25 ·
There was ONE change in the 4th gen transmission, the crank sensor. 2001 transmissions have the mounting hole for both 3rd and 4th gen crank sensors. 2002 that threaded hole went away, so you'd have to use the 4th gen crank sensor and wiring connector pigtail spliced into your harness. Or, one could use the wire connector of a 3rd gen crank sensor spliced to the harness connector of a 4th gen crank sensor for a plug and play adapter.
 
#26 ·
Thanks for the heads up on this, Dan! I took a quick look at RockAuto. The crank sensors are indeed different between 3rd gen and 4th. The 3rd gen has an elongated oval hole on the side of the crank sensor for the mounting bolt, whereas the 4th has an almost perfect round hole for the same bolt.

Despite the difference in crank sensors, their connectors are the same. I don't know how to account for this? No need to change the connectors??

The following are a comparison between my 99 TC 3.8 and a hypothetical 04 TC 3.8 crank sensor connectors:

99:

Rectangle Font Parallel Plot Writing


04:

Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Electric blue


Next time I am in the yard, I'll pull a crank sensor out of each to see exactly what the differences are. As I said, I thank you very much for the heads up!
 
#27 ·
I was just trying to remember what someone else had posted about using a newer sensor on an older van. If the sensor plug is the same, then awesome! Plug and play!
 
#28 ·
Hello folks. I thought I would gather up and post all the information that I have regarding 3rd generation transmission swaps, as it seems to be a topic of frequent inquiry. I have done the 2004 Caravan 3.3L into a 1996 Voyager 3.3L, so I can vouch for these model years. I do not know if any of the newer 2005 and onwards will work.If anybody has anything to add, feel free. General Information: Transmissions are interchangeable in these vans from 1996-2004 when dealing with the same engine to transmission combination within the same vehicle line (ex 2004 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L to 1996 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L). In mid 1998 a change from round pins to flat blades in the transmission range sensor connectors was made to increase the reliability of signals to the TCM. This necessitates an adapter or cutting off the old range sensor connector and soldering on the one from the salvage transmission when installing one of these newer transmissions in a 1996 to early 1998. If the transmission has already been pulled without it's connector, ask for it. Otherwise you will need to purchase an adapter from a transmission shop. Electrically, the connector pin outs are the same. Just the wire color coding and pin shape is different. Match the wire on the old connector pin to the same position pin on the new connector, then solder the new pin's wire to the wire on the vehicle harness with the color code that matches the old connector. It is also possible to swap the old transmission range sensor into the new transmission by dropping the oil pan and the valve body, negating the need for any soldering or an adapter BUT it will sit much lower in the transmission case. So much so that it will not seal properly as designed. I attempted this initially, but opted to switch back to the proper transmission range sensor and solder on the newer plug. Too much danger of water infiltration (very bad) into the transmission in my opinion. Regarding physical installation, on the 1996-1997's the flexplate has one 'D' shaped hole. If you install a newer transmission in one of these years, this hole will need to be ground out to round like the other three or, you can get a newer flexplate. Either salvage or aftermarket will suffice. 3.0L transmission's have a custom bell housing that only mates with that engine. Watch out for dowel pins. Sometimes they fall out, other times they stick in the transmission. This is a problem when BOTH the transmission and engine have dowel pins in them! Pull the pins out of one or the other before installation, it doesn't matter which. Just be sure to only have one set of dowel pins to guide the engine and bell housing together. Fluid dipsticks usually need to be swapped out for the older ones when putting in a 2001 or newer transmission. Also, there is an extra bolt boss on the 2001 and newer transmissions. Just ignore it and use your old transmission mount. Now would be a good time to replace it if yours is deteriorated. Internally, there are differences mainly between different carlines and engines(Stratus, Caravan, Intrepid, 3.3L vs 3.8L, etc) Mostly in the final drive ratios and things of that nature. Generally it is more work than it is worth, in my opinion, to change out with a different carline or engine. Your best bet is to stay with what you have. Not really a problem since the vans are popular and plentiful in salvage yards. But if you are really determined, knock yourself out! Electrically, the only differences are in the TCM programming from year to year. Things like torque converter clutch modulation, shift points, etc. It is NOT necessary to reflash or replace the TCM module with the one from the salvage donor vehicle unless you want the transmission to shift with the same characteristics. In some cases, this could even cause problems. You can just leave the battery unplugged for a day or so to erase the old adaptive program for the previous transmission. All this means is that your newer transmission will be running an older shift program, with the attendant shift points and torque converter lockup clutch behavior as programmed in that model years' TCM. Yes, following installation you can Quick Learn the TCM Clutch Volume Indice's (CVI's)if you are so inclined and equipped (Chrysler DRB III, Chrysler Star Scan), but you don't have to do it. Otherwise, not Quick Learning means the transmission will shift oddly or a little rough for a while until the TCM is able to create a new adaptive profile for your driving style. Third generation TCM's are VERY adaptive, perhaps too much so, since Chrysler toned that down greatly in successive generations. But it WILL smooth out shortly, don't worry. Other things to watch for include using ATF+4 or newer fluid ONLY. Change the old filter in the new transmission. Before installation is also a good time to change all the oil seals. Nothing like finding a leaking torque converter or CV shaft seal AFTER the transmission is installed. Oh what a feeling.
I NEED HELP PLZ !! I have a 08 dodge van that the tranny is slipping in I also have a 06 that the tranny is perfect in but has a lot of other issues is it possible to use the 06 tranny in my 08? Both dodge grand caravan
 
#29 ·
Hello folks. I thought I would gather up and post all the information that I have regarding 3rd generation transmission swaps, as it seems to be a topic of frequent inquiry. I have done the 2004 Caravan 3.3L into a 1996 Voyager 3.3L, so I can vouch for these model years. I do not know if any of the newer 2005 and onwards will work.If anybody has anything to add, feel free.

General Information: Transmissions are interchangeable in these vans from 1996-2004 when dealing with the same engine to transmission combination within the same vehicle line (ex 2004 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L to 1996 Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country 3.3L). In mid 1998 a change from round pins to flat blades in the transmission range sensor connectors was made to increase the reliability of signals to the TCM. This necessitates an adapter or cutting off the old range sensor connector and soldering on the one from the salvage transmission when installing one of these newer transmissions in a 1996 to early 1998. If the transmission has already been pulled without it's connector, ask for it. Otherwise you will need to purchase an adapter from a transmission shop. Electrically, the connector pin outs are the same. Just the wire color coding and pin shape is different. Match the wire on the old connector pin to the same position pin on the new connector, then solder the new pin's wire to the wire on the vehicle harness with the color code that matches the old connector. It is also possible to swap the old transmission range sensor into the new transmission by dropping the oil pan and the valve body, negating the need for any soldering or an adapter BUT it will sit much lower in the transmission case. So much so that it will not seal properly as designed. I attempted this initially, but opted to switch back to the proper transmission range sensor and solder on the newer plug. Too much danger of water infiltration (very bad) into the transmission in my opinion.

Regarding physical installation, on the 1996-1997's the flexplate has one 'D' shaped hole. If you install a newer transmission in one of these years, this hole will need to be ground out to round like the other three or, you can get a newer flexplate. Either salvage or aftermarket will suffice. 3.0L transmission's have a custom bell housing that only mates with that engine. Watch out for dowel pins. Sometimes they fall out, other times they stick in the transmission. This is a problem when BOTH the transmission and engine have dowel pins in them! Pull the pins out of one or the other before installation, it doesn't matter which. Just be sure to only have one set of dowel pins to guide the engine and bell housing together. Fluid dipsticks usually need to be swapped out for the older ones when putting in a 2001 or newer transmission. Also, there is an extra bolt boss on the 2001 and newer transmissions. Just ignore it and use your old transmission mount. Now would be a good time to replace it if yours is deteriorated.

Internally, there are differences mainly between different carlines and engines(Stratus, Caravan, Intrepid, 3.3L vs 3.8L, etc) Mostly in the final drive ratios and things of that nature. Generally it is more work than it is worth, in my opinion, to change out with a different carline or engine. Your best bet is to stay with what you have. Not really a problem since the vans are popular and plentiful in salvage yards. But if you are really determined, knock yourself out!

Electrically, the only differences are in the TCM programming from year to year. Things like torque converter clutch modulation, shift points, etc. It is NOT necessary to reflash or replace the TCM module with the one from the salvage donor vehicle unless you want the transmission to shift with the same characteristics. In some cases, this could even cause problems. You can just leave the battery unplugged for a day or so to erase the old adaptive program for the previous transmission. All this means is that your newer transmission will be running an older shift program, with the attendant shift points and torque converter lockup clutch behavior as programmed in that model years' TCM. Yes, following installation you can Quick Learn the TCM Clutch Volume Indice's (CVI's)if you are so inclined and equipped (Chrysler DRB III, Chrysler Star Scan), but you don't have to do it. Otherwise, not Quick Learning means the transmission will shift oddly or a little rough for a while until the TCM is able to create a new adaptive profile for your driving style. Third generation TCM's are VERY adaptive, perhaps too much so, since Chrysler toned that down greatly in successive generations. But it WILL smooth out shortly, don't worry.

Other things to watch for include using ATF+4 or newer fluid ONLY. Change the old filter in the new transmission. Before installation is also a good time to change all the oil seals. Nothing like finding a leaking torque converter or CV shaft seal AFTER the transmission is installed. Oh what a feeling.


I have a 06 van with a great tranny but a lot of issues but I also have a 08 van that the tranny is slipping in can I use the one from the 06 in my 08? Both are dodge grand caravan both automatic
 
#30 ·
Only if the 2008 has the 3.3L engine, would the 2006 transmission work. The 3.8L and 4.0L used in the 5th gen vans 2008-up used a different transmission, the 62TE. The 3.3L V6 still used the 41TE transmission that the 4th gen vans (2001-2007) used.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top