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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2005 T&C (241 k miles) started making an occasional slight jerking motion, mainly when driving up a hill, but not always. The spark plugs were changed six months ago and I have put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank about 2-3 weeks ago. I also cleaned out the throttle body after this with no change in performance.

I am not able to tell if this is a start of a transmission problem or something more simple as clogged fuel injectors.
 

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I wish I could provide some insight for you Chimp. Please keep us updated when you find out what the cause is.
 

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2005 T & C, 3.8, 196k miles; bought in 2019 w/ 190k miles
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Have you changed up you tranny fluid w/ a pan drop and new filter; seems these go 1k per each one? I've switched to all Synthetic fluids and use Rockauto.com for any Mopar parts I need. My thinking is anything that help it stay as slick as poss. Am researching using Tribol in the trans as well as it is on sale.
 

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2005 T & C, 3.8, 196k miles; bought in 2019 w/ 190k miles
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I am getting a slight shuddering when in D only at 40 mph to 50 mph but the engine is below 1800rpms. When I shift into 3 the roms gear up past 2000. My research says that's a dirty trans fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you changed up you tranny fluid w/ a pan drop and new filter; seems these go 1k per each one? I've switched to all Synthetic fluids and use Rockauto.com for any Mopar parts I need. My thinking is anything that help it stay as slick as poss. Am researching using Tribol in the trans as well as it is on sale.
I have been a long time since changing transmission fluid. I assume just a fluid change, no flush correct?
 

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On my 2003, the first time is was a spark plug wire, and the second time it was a spark plug. Don't jump on the trans.

Also, and until you find your problem, try using third around town. You'll think your driving a boy racer!
 

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My 2005 T&C (241 k miles) started making an occasional slight jerking motion, mainly when driving up a hill, but not always. The spark plugs were changed six months ago and I have put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank about 2-3 weeks ago. I also cleaned out the throttle body after this with no change in performance.

I am not able to tell if this is a start of a transmission problem or something more simple as clogged fuel injectors.
Injector cleaner might actually clog the injectos as dislodged debris from the tank-fuel lines may find it's way to the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I appreciate all of the suggestions. It really seems as though this bump nearly always occurs at 25-35 mph (1200 - 1500 rpm) and going up hill.

What should be the best course of action? Change fuel filter / get injectors cleaned / spark plug wires / change transmission fluid?
 

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If the engine revs fine and you can hold the same speed at high engine rpms, it's not the fuel injectors. Sounds more like an engine miss under load, which is usually ignition related (plugs, wires, cracked coil pack).

Bikemannc: yours sounds like the torque converter clutch is starting to slip. New fluid might help, but if it's already slipping and has high mileage already, it may just be time for a new torque converter.
 

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Have you hooked up a scan tool to see if there are any codes? If so, what are they?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a scan tool but haven't hooked it up yet as I didn't think that there would be any codes. I will do that this afternoon and report back. I'm am concerned that it may be a transmission issue as the "bump" nearly always happens when I start up a hill in the 1200-1800 rpm range. Hopefully I'm wrong as everything else is an easy fix.
 

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When I had my 'bump' issue, I waited till I finally pulled a misfire code, as I didn't want to drive myself crazy changing everything. Remember, the 'bump' is probably not hurting anything, and as I've said before, use third around town, which is a lot cheaper than buying a transmission if it is actually a transmission.
 

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Had similar symptoms with my 2005. It's an ignition issue. Changed out the coil pack. All is good. (It's an easy, DIY, and inexpensive fix).

DW
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Had similar symptoms with my 2005. It's an ignition issue. Changed out the coil pack. All is good. (It's an easy, DIY, and inexpensive fix).

DW
I hope that y'all are right. I would love to not have a transmission issue. coil or anything else is not a problem.
 

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You will not pull a misfire code until your engine misfires enough to satisfy the computer, which will then set a misfire code. If it misfires enough to damage the cat, it will shut down the injector for that cylinder.

In your case, as in mine, you kind of get a short term misfire, which is not enough to trigger the computer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I believe that I'm going to replace the coil pack first. While driving today I noticed that the "bump" or misfire occurred while driving at highway speed and also driving in third gear at slower speed.
 

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Unlikely the transmission, unless it is shifting when this "bump" occurs. Worn clutch plates will cause the engine rpm to flare up briefly when shifting gears, as the slip excessively, but not your report. Transmission fluid changes are overpromoted and often unnecessary cost. If your fluid still looks bright red and doesn't smell burnt, I wouldn't worry. I've never found any noticeable debris on the filter, though I always change that if going to the extent of removing the pan.

My guess would be spark misfires. I had similar in my 1996 Voyager 2.4L when trying to accelerate on an on-ramp, it would start missing badly. It is hardest to throw a spark at high cylinder pressure, which occurs at wide-open throttle at low rpm, as you experience. My fix was to lower the plug-gap from the spec 60 mil to 50 mil, and no more misfires. That was a TSB for the same engine with a turbo (Neon and PT Cruiser SRT), as turbocharging gives even higher cylinder pressure.

I had misfires in our 2002 T&C 3.8L, which turned out due to the coil-pack. I quickly found it by clamping a timing lamp over each plug wire (remember those?) and found it wasn't flashing on plugs 2 & 5 (recall) which is the coil closest to the engine (gets hotter?). I also heard a faint clicking sound, probably coming from inside the coil pack. Changed it and no more issue. I have read of many others having to change the coil pack. At the time, a new one cost ~$60, but might be cheaper today w/ close-outs and such.
 

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got same issue on 2006 115,000 miles when going up the bridge daily. sprayed the spark plug wires say some sparking. did this at night to see the spark.
replaced plug wires, solved issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I appreciate everyone's response's to my question! I replaced the coil pack and that solved the issue. Total cost was $57 for a coil pack and less than 1/2 hour of time spent replacing it. Easy job! Y'all have been great!
 
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