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youtube.com/sideburns2009
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Discussion Starter #1
My T&C has been dying when coming to a stop lately. It only does it about once a day, if that. No check engine light, nothing with the key dance, so I hooked up my Mactools OBD2 reader and got a P1899 - Park/Neutral Position Switch Stuck In Park or In Gear. What does this mean and would it cause my van to die?


Update: I just went back and checked the codes again(I didn't erase them) and it said there were no codes.???
 

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the park neutral swich is why the van wont start in drive or reverse, it only cranks in park or neutral, can't see why would it cause it to stall, how long sience a tune up, I'd start there, if the spark is weak or the fuel presure is weak it may do it, it could also be wiring, be it the spark cuts off or the fuel pump cuts off, swap the fuel pump relay, see what it does, how are the coilpacks wired? off the ignition swich? how many keys you have on yous key chain, if they are heavy, may have damaged the ign swich, and as they rock when braking may cut off the power to the coils, .
just throwing some Ideeas out there.
 

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youtube.com/sideburns2009
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Discussion Starter #3
the park neutral swich is why the van wont start in drive or reverse, it only cranks in park or neutral, can't see why would it cause it to stall, how long sience a tune up, I'd start there, if the spark is weak or the fuel presure is weak it may do it, it could also be wiring, be it the spark cuts off or the fuel pump cuts off, swap the fuel pump relay, see what it does, how are the coilpacks wired? off the ignition swich? how many keys you have on yous key chain, if they are heavy, may have damaged the ign swich, and as they rock when braking may cut off the power to the coils, .
just throwing some Ideeas out there.
It doesnt even have 5000 miles on the tune-up. It also has a new fuel filter, air filter, upstream o2 sensor, egr valve, and pcv valve. I already tried starting it in anything but neutral and park and nothing happened so I don't know why that code came up and went away. I hope it's not wiring, I hate dealing with wiring trying to track a problem. :( I already swapped the fuel pump relay and it hasn't done it yet, but it doesn't do it consistantly. This is the first problem I've had out of my van. :blink:
 

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That switch might not have anything to do with the stalling,but if the shift selector switch is bad on a 41TE,the valve body has to come out.
 

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That switch might not have anything to do with the stalling,but if the shift selector switch is bad on a 41TE,the valve body has to come out.
does it realy, isn't it on the shifter linkage?

what about your ign swich, I have seen them worn down due to heavy key chains, any lights flikering might narow it down
 

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youtube.com/sideburns2009
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Discussion Starter #6
does it realy, isn't it on the shifter linkage?

what about your ign swich, I have seen them worn down due to heavy key chains, any lights flikering might narow it down
Well, my keychain is pretty hefty. I went out there and started it and played around with the key/keychain and jiggled it them to see if it duplicated the symptom. It didn't, no dying or lights flickering. Any way to test the ignition switch?

[and by the way, the p1899 disappeared and the switch worked right, it would only start in park or neutral.]
 

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Back to the original issue... stalling during decelleration may certainly be due to the idle air control valve and/or the throttle position sensor. I have had this issue myself on my 99 DGC
 

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Back to the original issue... stalling during decelleration may certainly be due to the idle air control valve and/or the throttle position sensor. I have had this issue myself on my 99 DGC
that does make a lot of sense, again I am not very familiar with map fuel injection, the IAC may definately be the culprit.
I'd rule out the ignition swich now that you played with it and could not duplicate the symptom.
 

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youtube.com/sideburns2009
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Discussion Starter #10
that does make a lot of sense, again I am not very familiar with map fuel injection, the IAC may definately be the culprit.
I'd rule out the ignition swich now that you played with it and could not duplicate the symptom.
Ok. One more thing I forgot to add. Sometimes it will start missing and then die and sometimes it just dies. It ALWAYS starts right back up no problem though.
 

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I'm convinced my 2000 Town & Country has moods. There was a while there a week or so ago where my van would start, crank and turn over into nothing, it would turn over and die immediately. But the second it was restarted, it would be fine. This happened at least once every day for almost a week, and then oddly... stopped happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I thought swapping the fuel pump relay fixed it, it went a few days without dieing. It finally did it today though, well it missed or chugged whatever...and the check engine light came on then went back off, no codes remain. I dont know!!!!:(
 

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Well I thought swapping the fuel pump relay fixed it, it went a few days without dieing. It finally did it today though, well it missed or chugged whatever...and the check engine light came on then went back off, no codes remain. I dont know!!!!:(
Sounds like it's a standard problem on the 3.3L. Mine started doing that on rare occasions, several years, ago. It did it to me (and my wife) last month. As you said, "Starts right back up".

Anyone figure this one out, we can ALL benefit. :beerchug:
 

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Stalling when coming to a stop points to the already mentioned IAC valve, TPS, or possibly the MAP sensor. The IAC valve (via the PCM) regulates air volume past the throttle plate into the intake manifold when the throttle plate is closed (foot off the pedal). As you decelerate, the IAC opens to prevent stalling. A key input for that process is throttle plate position meaning TPS position. The MAP sensor supplies the PCM with intake manifold pressure data so it can regulate timing and fuel injector pulses. This data varies with engine rpm and load such as when slowing to a stop.

When you throw in "missing and chugging" I would include the camshaft and crankshaft sensors though all of the above still applies. All of these sensors can fail without throwing a code.

What to do? Because your problem is so intermittent, testing is probably a waste of time. Unfortunately, shotgunning parts is probably in your future. Short of that, inspect the connections for all these sensors. First make sure they are on tight then disconnect and check for corrosion, pushed/bent contacts and loose wire connections to the contacts. You can clean them by spraying with electrical contact cleaner (Radio Shack or auto parts stores) and disconnecting and reconnecting several times. Trace the sensor's wire harnesses as far as you can looking for chaffed or bulged wire insulation. If you can use a multimeter, shake the wires as you check continuity. Another thing to try is disconnect the air intake tube from the throttle body and spray the throttle plate area with a throttle body or carborator cleaner. Just make sure the cleaner doesn't contain silicone - a cat converter killer. Pay particular attention to the IAC valve pintle opening.
 

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youtube.com/sideburns2009
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Discussion Starter #15
Stalling when coming to a stop points to the already mentioned IAC valve, TPS, or possibly the MAP sensor. The IAC valve (via the PCM) regulates air volume past the throttle plate into the intake manifold when the throttle plate is closed (foot off the pedal). As you decelerate, the IAC opens to prevent stalling. A key input for that process is throttle plate position meaning TPS position. The MAP sensor supplies the PCM with intake manifold pressure data so it can regulate timing and fuel injector pulses. This data varies with engine rpm and load such as when slowing to a stop.

When you throw in "missing and chugging" I would include the camshaft and crankshaft sensors though all of the above still applies. All of these sensors can fail without throwing a code.

What to do? Because your problem is so intermittent, testing is probably a waste of time. Unfortunately, shotgunning parts is probably in your future. Short of that, inspect the connections for all these sensors. First make sure they are on tight then disconnect and check for corrosion, pushed/bent contacts and loose wire connections to the contacts. You can clean them by spraying with electrical contact cleaner (Radio Shack or auto parts stores) and disconnecting and reconnecting several times. Trace the sensor's wire harnesses as far as you can looking for chaffed or bulged wire insulation. If you can use a multimeter, shake the wires as you check continuity. Another thing to try is disconnect the air intake tube from the throttle body and spray the throttle plate area with a throttle body or carborator cleaner. Just make sure the cleaner doesn't contain silicone - a cat converter killer. Pay particular attention to the IAC valve pintle opening.
I have recently cleaned the throttle body and I made sure to clean the IAC opening on the bottom of the body. I guess its possible that its the TPS (or others). If this was a bad TPS, at times, giving a false reading...could it cause my transmission to shudder? Just a thought. I know the TCM uses readings from the PCM and sensors to determine shift points and pressures.
 

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I tested a Tps once, it is a fairly simple procedure, and sure enough it proved to be bad, replaced it and never had a problem sience, now it has been a while so bear with me.
basicaly it ia a variable resistor, the more the throtle opens the more resistance, there are some values you are looking for a minimum and a max, fogot what they are, 0.5 ohm? min maybe? but the ideea is that the values should increase progresively with the position, ex if in the first 15 degrees it varied .5 ohm, at 30 degrees you should have a total variance of 1 ohm, twice the angle twice the variance, a bad tps will spyke up or down or go to infinity, I did a google search at that time this is how I came across this info, you should be able to tell if it is bad, they cost about $35 new, $5 at the junkyard, they may not be too good but you can get 2 and see if any of them makes a diference.
good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I tested a Tps once, it is a fairly simple procedure, and sure enough it proved to be bad, replaced it and never had a problem sience, now it has been a while so bear with me.
basicaly it ia a variable resistor, the more the throtle opens the more resistance, there are some values you are looking for a minimum and a max, fogot what they are, 0.5 ohm? min maybe? but the ideea is that the values should increase progresively with the position, ex if in the first 15 degrees it varied .5 ohm, at 30 degrees you should have a total variance of 1 ohm, twice the angle twice the variance, a bad tps will spyke up or down or go to infinity, I did a google search at that time this is how I came across this info, you should be able to tell if it is bad, they cost about $35 new, $5 at the junkyard, they may not be too good but you can get 2 and see if any of them makes a diference.
good luck
Do you think the values would be in the Haynes manual?
 

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I am sure you can look them up online it is how I found it, it was for a ford tempo, but still, botom line you want to see an even progresion, no spykes or infinity, give it a go see what you find, I belive in my case it was throwing a code too, 'TPS SIGNAL LOW' smth like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update: I was waiting for a car to drive by so I could turn into my friends driveway. I was stopped with my blinker on. I had the radio up and I couldn't really here anything but music(infinity acoustic 10 baby!). When the car passed I went to turn in and I couldn't move the steering wheel. It had died again. It just shut off, no check engine light, no missing....nothing. Started RIGHT back up and ran perfectly.
 

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Sounds like it's a standard problem on the 3.3L. Mine started doing that on rare occasions, several years, ago. It did it to me (and my wife) last month. As you said, "Starts right back up".

Anyone figure this one out, we can ALL benefit. :beerchug:
I experienced this problem 2 years ago on my 97 caravan 3.3L, the van would just die, I'd be driving down the road and it would cut off, I could throw it into neutral and restart without a problem. The solution was the crankshaft sensor I replaced that and never had the problem again. Not a hard piece to replace either here a image of a 3.3 and location.

 
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