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Discussion Starter #1
I have received conflicting answers concerning the location of my vans voltage regulator. An auto mechanic told me it is in the alternator. A parts person told me it is in the PCM. It is 2007 Town and Country. 3.8 l.So where is it located?
 

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Welcome to the Forum.

Your voltage regulator is inside the engine computer and rarely causes a problem. Rockauto.com does not list a voltage regulator for your van.

Apparently an external voltage regulator can be install though. It has been discussed on this Forum in detail, a couple months back.

What problems are you having?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A dead battery when I go to start it after it has been sitting. Have put 2 different rebuilt alternators in it that load test fine. Replacing the battery now. The auto repair place I called said it sounded like a bad draw on the battery. That something is not shutting off.
 

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Any aftermarket wiring? Security system?

Have a trailer hitch electrical connector?.

Check all lights to see if they work okay.

You can install an inexpensive battery shut off switch.

Have a multi-meter? Check current draw through fuse removal..

Could be a stuck relay.
 

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Drivin' Maniac
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A battery disconnect is no good if you need all your OBDII readiness codes 'set' for an annual inspection, as we do in NJ, USA.

I second the need to check for a parasitic current drain.
 

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Battery Voltages:
Fully charged automotive batteries should measure at 12.6 volts or above. When the engine is running, this measurement should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts.
 

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A battery disconnect is no good if you need all your OBDII readiness codes 'set' for an annual inspection, as we do in NJ, USA.

I second the need to check for a parasitic current drain.
What kind of an inspection is that? :) None of that craziness here. I suppose they don't care if your suspension is falling apart and ready for an accident. Our inspections here are for road worthiness every two years.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No trailer hitch and no Security system. Not sure about aftermarket wiring as we just bought it this past May. Will check on the rest though. The headlights do flicker some, not consistent.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Any aftermarket wiring? Security system?

Have a trailer hitch electrical connector?.

Check all lights to see if they work okay.

You can install an inexpensive battery shut off switch.

Have a multi-meter? Check current draw through fuse removal..

Could be a stuck relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No trailer hitch and no Security system. Not sure about aftermarket wiring as we just bought it this past May. Will check on the rest though. The headlights do flicker some, not consistent.
 

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Drivin' Maniac
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What kind of an inspection is that?
In the USA, the States do not get highway funds from the federal government unless they monitor emissions. These days, the states use OBDII indicators on the dash to verify that cars comply, rather than expensive Rolling Roads.

The inspectors are cognizant of the fact that folks can disconnect the batteries to extinguish the CEL lamp (they look for the CEL lamp to light by restarting).

Some people disconnect the battery to reset a CEL (which is a FAIL), so now they hook up a scanner to assure that all the Readiness Codes are set. (This can take several Drive Cycles) If all (or most, in some states) of the Readiness Codes are not set, the vehicle will not pass inspection.
 

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In the USA, the States do not get highway funds from the federal government unless they monitor emissions. These days, the states use OBDII indicators on the dash to verify that cars comply, rather than expensive Rolling Roads.

The inspectors are cognizant of the fact that folks can disconnect the batteries to extinguish the CEL lamp (they look for the CEL lamp to light by restarting).

Some people disconnect the battery to reset a CEL (which is a FAIL), so now they hook up a scanner to assure that all the Readiness Codes are set. (This can take several Drive Cycles) If all (or most, in some states) of the Readiness Codes are not set, the vehicle will not pass inspection.
Where's Trump on that process? :)
 

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First, every American worth his salt is a Trumpist, with the emphasis on piss.

Second, for general alternator info, the field/voltage control does come from the car's computer, but there still is a brush pack in the alternator, that will wear out, and should be replaceable.
 

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CVguy, Jeepman is a Canadian, and has every right to say what he said. I'm surprised you didn't comment on my statement, which was in much poorer taste, purposely so.
 

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CVguy, Jeepman is a Canadian, and has every right to say what he said. ….
It's all about common sense, and has nothing to do with anyone's rights. There are very few places to go these days where we are not bombarded 7x24 with 'current events'. This is (or should be) one of those places - just a bunch of people trying to help each other out about problems with our vans. Please let's keep it that way and don't allow this great forum to turn into just another circus.
 

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Second, for general alternator info, the field/voltage control does come from the car's computer, but there still is a brush pack in the alternator, that will wear out, and should be replaceable.
I second this. I've been hunting down an intermittent electrical issue for months now and finally found the cause. The previous owner had replaced the original alternator with a "remanufactured" unit. Emphasis on the reman part 'cause they just reused the old brushes, which were toast.

Checking and/or changing the brushes is super easy. I bought a set of cheap ebay Chinese brushes online - probably not the best quality, but miles better then what was in there. Problem solved.

Be sure to check obvious stuff, even before the brushes though. Battery terminals, the various grounding points in the engine bay, and a voltage-drop test on the wiring is a good idea too. Throwing alternators at the problem gets expensive :)
 

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The previous owner had replaced the original alternator with a "remanufactured" unit. Emphasis on the reman part 'cause they just reused the old brushes, which were toast.

Checking and/or changing the brushes is super easy. I bought a set of cheap ebay Chinese brushes online - probably not the best quality, but miles better then what was in there. Problem solved.
Remanufactured alternator always include new brushes and new bearings + other new parts. You are wrong on this one.
 

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Remanufactured alternator always include new brushes and new bearings + other new parts. You are wrong on this one.
Correct.

Maybe he actually purchased Rebuilt alternator.
 
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