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warning you now... tried so many different things over the years and it will STILL fly right back up and slap down on the vehicle at speed, creating a sound as loud as a gunshot inside

i think i'm on my 5th attempt, it's just wrapped around the roof rack now to keep it from flapping around
 

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Mine broke loose one time so far. I actually pulled it up/back a bit further until I hit a point where it seemed well stuck with the original tape, cleaned both mating surfaces with automotive goo-gone, cleaned off the goo-gone with dish soap/water, rinsed with water, allowed to dry, applied 3M molding tape of about the same width as the strip, and then pulled/pressed it all back down while pressing fimly along the entire length of it. Has been good for a few years now.
 

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Drivin' Maniac
2002 Grand Caravan ES 3.8L
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That black seal is only cosmetic. Don't rely on it to prevent moisture into the kick panels/ rocker covers.

I have sealed ours (without removing) more than once. The sliding doors and hatch cause the body to flex.


 

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Mine is coming off on the one side...

Anybody kno View attachment 67484
w part numbers?
I don't know if that is actually a "seal", or if it isn't just a cosmetic strip to cover the seam below it. Industry practice is to spot weld and seam seal that joint where the roof panel is attached to the sides, then put a cosmetic strip on the opening to keep debris out and neaten the appearance. In any case - a good body shop or a place that install windshields should be able to re-attach yours or provide a suitable replacement.
 

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2005 Caravan/ Town & Country
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188 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't know if that is actually a "seal", or if it isn't just a cosmetic strip to cover the seam below it. Industry practice is to spot weld and seam seal that joint where the roof panel is attached to the sides, then put a cosmetic strip on the opening to keep debris out and neaten the appearance. In any case - a good body shop or a place that install windshields should be able to re-attach yours or provide a suitable replacement.
i also feel like it helps with cargo roof loading geat info guys thank you for the exclamation
 

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Pull the moulding back to where it is still strongly affixed, clean the adhesive off both the moulding and the paint and reattach with 3M Moulding Tape. [edited] I see Jeepman has already posted this solution above, but figure I'd leave my post, since I included a picture of the 3M product.

Automotive tire Camera lens Camera accessory Cameras & optics Audio equipment
 

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2006 Dodge Caravan SXE
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Pull the moulding back to where it is still strongly affixed, clean the adhesive off both the moulding and the paint and reattach with 3M Moulding Tape. [edited] I see Jeepman has already posted this solution above, but figure I'd leave my post, since I included a picture of the 3M product.

View attachment 67591
The 3M product is good stuff.

I've also used Loctite 414

For the 414 to work, everything needs to be very clean. Take the molding and roll it back. Apply the 414 in an even spread every 4 inches. Then apply the molding down about 3+ inches at a time and keep going till there end WITHOUT interruptions. Once this is done, it can not be undone. Apply in the shade or on a good cloudy say. The sun will cure this way too fast.

Loctite 414 is an ethyl-based cyanoacrylate liquid instant adhesive. Blows the doors off of super-glue (aka Loctite 209) any day. Must use caution and not be sloppy with it either. 414 is not typically on store shelves. McMaster-Carr is where I buy the 10z bottles. Its pricey, it works.

Should the 3M product work as well and costs less, that would be the better option.
 

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It doesn't seal anything, just decorative. Almost all recent cars use it. Fairly generic, comes in several widths. I removed it for painting my 1996 Voyager. Looks good enough to re-use. Yes, it had detached at the front. I used polyurethane caulk, as I recall, but many adhesives "should work". Gorilla Glue is polyurethane foam. The factory used a foam tape. You can buy similar quality 3-M tape on ebay for attaching trim mouldings. BTW, in older Mopar cars thru the 1960's, the "roof" included the C-pillars where they sealed a weld to the body steel at the bottom. I think they used molten lead as a sealant and leveler, which was also used as a body filler by repair shops long ago. Those cars often rust-thru there, especially if under a vinyl roof which cracks to hold moisture.
 

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I think they used molten lead as a sealant and leveler, which was also used as a body filler by repair shops long ago. Those cars often rust-thru there, especially if under a vinyl roof which cracks to hold moisture.
Another issue was they used an acid-based flux to prep the metal to accept the lead solder, and if it wasn't properly removed it started eating the metal away. It is kinda like when the restorers will have a car body acid dipped to remove rust. If it isn't FULLY rinsed, cleaned and properly prepped, the acid remains in the seams and eats the car from the inside out.
 
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