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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
'05 Chrysler T & C. 2nd day trying to get the hub bearing out of the knuckle. Have applied Kroil, heat with a Mapp torch, and have beat on it, and now have a puller pushing on the bearing under tension, and have used the air chisel all the way around the outside of the hub flange. This thing does not want to budge! Any thoughts?
 

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2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
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Sounds like you've tried everything but a hydraulic press. Pull the knuckle off and press it out. If that fails you need to replace the entire assembly.
 
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I agree with the hydraulic press. Pull the knuckle and take it to a shop.
 
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On a different vehicle, I had to remove the knuckle, then I could get get a good angle to beat on it from the back side and it came out quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I removed the knuckle like I should have yesterday, took it to the auto parts store, and with a 20 ton press, and a LOT of pressure, it came out with a loud BANG! It's all back together now, thanks for all your help...
 

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Well, I removed the knuckle like I should have yesterday, took it to the auto parts store, and with a 20 ton press, and a LOT of pressure, it came out with a loud BANG! It's all back together now, thanks for all your help...
Good to hear you got it out. My buddy bought one of these. You can only use it on bearings that are not going to reused and you can slam on it with a sledgehammer.:ThumbsUp:
Its a simple but effective idea and if you have a welder you can make one easily enough.
He swears by it.


https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.c...WD2_ZR58Gs0ehp-vpVIpy0XsoKZ8-8hxoCyTUQAvD_BwE
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looking at the interior of the knuckle where the bearing rested, I could see that the problem was electrolysis, the knuckle being aluminum and the bearing steel. You could see where the Kroil channeled through the gap between the two, but it was still stuck fast in too many other areas to come free easily. The press was a must. I could have pounded on that forever, and it would've never separated!
 

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I changed both of my bearings on my '05 last fall. I had the same issue as you. Basically, you have to beat the **** out of it. I spent 20 minutes on one side with an 8 lb sledge, thought it was never going to come off, but it did. The other side came off in less than 5 minutes. One of my bearings was bad and with both replaced the van rides very smoothly. I have 265K miles on the van. I've never hit a vehicle as hard as I did removing the bearing hubs.
 

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I agree that a big hammer will work as well as a shop press. I have the later, but it can be a chore to orient a part to fit and may need to fab adapters. Penetrating oil helps a lot. Once the interface is filled w/ oil, hammering creates high hydroshock pressures which forces rust particles out and lubricates.
 

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I agree that a big hammer will work as well as a shop press. I have the later, but it can be a chore to orient a part to fit and may need to fab adapters. Penetrating oil helps a lot. Once the interface is filled w/ oil, hammering creates high hydroshock pressures which forces rust particles out and lubricates.
+1

Nothing can beat a big hammer on the proper hands.
 

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Dig THIS: My bearing, Driver side, '12 T & C, stuck. Also stuck and very near too thin for me to face/resurface: both front rotors. I'm a machinist and have had no problems doing this myself provided I indicate each rotor, drum, flywheel, etc. No 'wavey' or 'pulse' or vibrations as of yet, done many over the years. I digress, Annahoo...During this whole, yet to be resolved...dilemma(?)...horror story(?)...nightmare(✅), I 'demoted' both of the nearly no-good rotors to 'totally destroyed' status (one MAY feel sorry for them but with how my wife brakes, it's really a blessing!)...despite using plastic, wood, and other materials associated with NOT destroying one's rotors when wailing on them with my 'Peter' (my sledgehammer - after Peter Gabriel; young-uns: Google it). Will there be more surprises waiting for me? Yes...unequivocally, yes.
[<-After a few light taps, the 2 front rotors fell off, the axles tumbled out of the hubs, and amazingly - the 4 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle were finger tigh'-> wakes from dream]...I've cut the axle, removed the knuckle, ran our hydraulic press to 26 tons and held it there, THEN...put0 a 6" W x 14"-ish L x 1½ thick plate on the axle (nut still on), then with forks tipped back, pulled our forklift up. Set forks on the plate and tipped 'em forward until I could see slack in the chains, then proceeded to introduce 'Peter' to the situation. After about the 6th blast, i heard that great sound I had been waiting for: 'BLAMMO'...FREE AT LAST, FREE AT LAST, thank the LORD, it's free...AT LAST! Put all of the misc. metal pieces i had used to build up the knuckle square to the ram and all the other stuff away. Went to unscrew the nut and slide the axle the rest of the way out and IT CAME OFF IN MY HAND!!! 'BLAMMO', as it turned out WAS NOT that sacred sound but the sound of EVERY SINGLE THREAD on the I.D. of the nut being removed forcefully via hydraulics, beating, and a tipped forward cage/forks/ram of a forklift. Was left scratching my head thinking "Man, our lathe and a boring bar would've been a WHOLE LOT easier way to smooth the bore on this nut FFS!!!" This was a few days ago...it's currently Sept. 8th, 2021. I'm going to give the above mentioned 'push inward toward the knuckle' trick a whirl. P B Blaster, yup...along w/liquid wrench and a plethora of others. That said, I foresee boot and grease removal and an oxygen/acetylene torch in it's immediate future. ANY IDEAS AT ALL would be 'Bees knees' worthy material at this juncture. THANKS FOR READING and this IS INDEED a true story...unfortunately...for me.
 

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I got lost in that rambling... Sounded like it came loose and then got stuck again then stripped the threads coming loose again. Am I the only one that thinks that story made no sense?
 

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2005 Town & Country 251k miles
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My experience with the steering knuckle is if something cannot be easily removed is to disconnect the entire knuckle and bring it to a shop. This avoids a lot of swearing and hassle. I tried to replace the driver side lower ball joint and ended up taking the entire knuckle to a shop. When I got around to doing the passenger side I planned ahead to also take it to the shop and everything was easy. Worth every penny of the $55 they charged me (each time) to remove the stuck parts.
 

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Time to drag the knucle to a machine shop and have them press it out. if that takes to long or the knuckle is bad, replace it with a used one. I needed to replace the knuckle and it only takes a half hour or so, if that (jacking included). Go to your local Pick-n-Pull wrecking yard and get one. Mine cost about 35 bucks if I remember correctly.
 

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I find that trying to rotate the hub/bearing assembly sideways with a punch and BFH is usually more effective than trying to pull it straight out.
 

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Air chisel, maul hammer and small chisel, sledge hammer, maybe all three at once. :)
 
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