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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just had to replace a passenger side wheel bearing on my sister in laws '11 T&C with 145k miles. She was complaining of noisy brakes and those were replaced just this January. So I took it around the block and suddenly heard the horrible grinding noise that passed through the chassis into the seats and steering. I knew right away that it was not brakes. They squeak more so than grind with such vibration.

Here are some pictures of the repair.

4x15mm bolts hold the hub on the knuckle, 32mm socket for the axle nut, and then I think 21mm for the two bolts on the caliper bracket. Took those out with an air impact and was able to re-assemble with the new part in about 30-40min start to finish, on the ground.

Pictures:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Rim Gas


Automotive tire White Motor vehicle Rim Cameras & optics


Automotive tire Crankset Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Wheel

Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim


Automotive tire Vehicle brake Locking hubs Motor vehicle Rim



: Video of loose wheel bearing
 

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2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
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How many Hail Mary's does she say before driving that thing? Those struts look like they are kept together with prayers with all that rust on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How many Hail Mary's does she say before driving that thing? Those struts look like they are kept together with prayers with all that rust on them.
Oh man, I told her she cant leave my house, she took my T&C to go to work while I swapped it out. The rest is in very good shape, no noises, nothing is loose but yes it does have surface rust everywhere, that's the price we pay to have snow in the forecasts up here in the rust belt. That bearing was soooooo lose, I have never seen one this bad.
 

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2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
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You guys need to be doing something to protect your vans. Struts blowing out suddenly is no fun at all. Over 7 years old and mine look like this:
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber


Granted, I don't live in the salt belt, but that's original paint on those. A lot of dust, but no rust. This comes naturally, but you guys have to work for it. Cleaning off salt, oiling, and rust proofing. It's the price you pay for snowmen. :p
 
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Some front wheel hubs break away from the knuckle easily, some require a sledge hammer and/or air hammer and still are hard to budge. Maybe if they are bad enough, the rust bond weakens from vibration. Anti-seize is used here, between circular hole in knuckle and hub, when installing.
Removing rear hubs is a lot easier.
That's just some surface rust on aftermarket struts. A good spray of Fluid Film will make them look like new. :)
 
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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I've heard of rust, isn't that the stuff that makes Mars red?

Yes, it's over 100° already, but we don't get rust here in Dallas. 436k miles, 25 years old.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You guys need to be doing something to protect your vans. Struts blowing out suddenly is no fun at all. Over 7 years old and mine look like this:
View attachment 66760
View attachment 66761

Granted, I don't live in the salt belt, but that's original paint on those. A lot of dust, but no rust. This comes naturally, but you guys have to work for it. Cleaning off salt, oiling, and rust proofing. It's the price you pay for snowmen. :p
Man I hear ya 100%!!! She bought hers used with 135k Michigan car in great shape, her purchase convinced me to buy my 13 which was Florida Michigan van and I’m trying to keep ‘em both alive, mine actually had 2 different struts one is rusted and silver and the other is leaking but black so I have to do both at some point but I also started ownership at 135k and now at 142k needing flex pipe and motor mount next before the struts. Here drives way smoother than mine, I am due for new front struts’
 

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538 RWHP, LS motor, RX7 body
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Rust is the wildcard. An easy process can take days, and multiple tools to get over simple humps. Broken bolts or stuck hubs can arrest an easy job. Without Air tools, it is a bear.
 

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And remember, Liquid Wrench is your friend.
 

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Doing anything without airtools is a bear. Just replaced a rear driver side shock. It was a bitch to get the bolts off - there's not room at the upper bracket next to the brake lines to get a wrench on the inner nut. I had to take the top bracket off (all 4 bolts were rusty tight on every turn) to reach both ends of the top fastener , then struggled to get the 2 bolts holding the shock itself- also tight as ****.
What should have been a simple job (6 bolts) took me 3 hours. For ONE shock. Damn rust.

One thing about bolts is they have threads. The upper 4 bracket bolts each started to loosen then got tighter and tighter as they were turned. The last thing I wanted was to twist a bolt off, or ruin the thread in the metal-- there is NO space to work for a broken bolt or thread. Lots of quarter turns in each almost endless, 2 in bolt.
 

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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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Doing anything without airtools is a bear. Just replaced a rear driver side shock. It was a bitch to get the bolts off - there's not room at the upper bracket next to the brake lines to get a wrench on the inner nut. I had to take the top bracket off (all 4 bolts were rusty tight on every turn) to reach both ends of the top fastener , then struggled to get the 2 bolts holding the shock itself- also tight as ****.
What should have been a simple job (6 bolts) took me 3 hours. For ONE shock. Damn rust.

One thing about bolts is they have threads. The upper 4 bracket bolts each started to loosen then got tighter and tighter as they were turned. The last thing I wanted was to twist a bolt off, or ruin the thread in the metal-- there is NO space to work for a broken bolt or thread. Lots of quarter turns in each almost endless, 2 in bolt.
Air ratchet. It won't help break the bolts loose like an impact, but it'll turn then with a decent amount of force, faster than you could with a regular ratchet.
Tool Font Engineering Auto part Electronic device
 

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If a bolt does seem to get tighter as you remove it, soak it in Liquid Wrench, and run it back in. Maybe repeat a few times. It might do the trick.
 

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I,ve done all 4 plus a crappy Napa proformer replacement. Yeah they’re easy enough. Of course the rust makes it quite a bit more challenging here.
A very great way to get them off is to use an old brake rotor. Creates lots of surface area to pound the hub out.
 

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I did a rear hub bearing last week. A slide hammer is very valuable for this job. I think it took all of 3 slide taps to pop the hub free.

SO far, That's the ONLY repair my 2014 has had, drivers side rear bearing. Was able to use a large pipe wrench clamped on top of hub, broke free with one hit of a hammer. Did rear brakes, only because I was there.
 
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They are terrible when you live in the rust belt and your brake rotor has been warped for 15k miles causing excess heat......
 
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