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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Subject pretty much says all. Got the van out there. Over half done, but I forgot to check what direction the cut goes. I have them facing front now, per the video that was posted here awhile back. However another video I have appears to say they point to the rear. Thanks!
 

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For 5th Generation, the bushing goes against a flat surface. Flat surface to flat surface. Looks like slit is to the back in the Haynes manual. That would make sense, sway bar bushing slits tend to be down/to the back.

For the 4th Generation, the sway bar bushing follows the bracket shape, groove to groove. The slit can vary say for a MOOG blue bushing vs Mopar bushing.
Pointed end is down.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For 5th Generation, the bushing goes against a flat surface. Flat surface to flat surface. Looks like slit is to the back in the Haynes manual. That would make sense.

For the 4th Generation, the sway bar bushing follows the bracket shape, groove to groove. The slit can vary say for a MOOG blue bushing vs Mopar bushing.
Pointed end is down.
Thanks Jeep! It's been awhile :)

I guess the guy who did that video had it backwards saying the cut was going forward. I guess I'll have to take off again. Good thing I haven't yet tightened the bolts.

On a related note, is torquing these brackets to spec that important? It's just that so far it's taken a lot of blood sweat and tears to get these off and back on .... let alone trying to fit my bulky torque wrench in there.
 

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Probably doesn't make much difference except for gathering dirt in the slit. Everything looks symmetrical. The blue MOOGs look like they have an arrow on them.
The MOPAR bushings look like they are slit in the bottom.

33 ft.lbs is the torque spec. per Haynes. Sounds light compared to 50 - 55 ft. lbs on the 4th Generation. I don't see any mention of preload on the bushings either (jacks vs ramps).
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again Jeep! My new bushings are black. TRW or TDW. something like that. Got them on amazon. Probably going to flip them around, and try to torque down. I wound up taking off the dreaded passenger side while removing just the closest bolt on the heat shield. Wasted a lot of time trying to find the other one to no avail. Finally watched the video from here where he does it with the heat shield on. Tricky and difficult, but seemingly possible - although getting it back on, let alone using a torque wrech will be a major challenge.
 
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I would leave them with the cut facing forward. Pressure on the sway bar will more often be directed toward the back and having it be intact there would probably make them last slightly longer before they push up against the bracket and make noise.
 

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Back bolt and slit:

Do you have a universal joint for your torque wrench?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I took them off, put slit to back , managed to get passenger side down, but couldn't torque both bolts as my 3/8 torque wrench wouldn't fit. However, these problems pale in comparison to just this one 10mm bolt I took out for the heat shield. It's the one on the side of the bushing which it covers. I spent over 2 hours, and I think I pulled my back. It seems you have to work it from under the van and through the wheel at the same time! I was beginning to think I had the wrong screw, but this one has to be it. I only took two off the van, and one was this heat sink. It came off a lot easier than it's (not) going back in.

I think I could feel the bolt hole , but couldn't manage to align the hole in the shield the shield and get the right angle with the bolt. Is there some trick I'm missing? Never dealt with a heat shield like this before, but so glad I did not take out the other screws for it. Picture shows bolt I'm using and view from wheelwell. This bolt hole is on the left or right side of the bushing. Can't remember which. Just exhausted. Thanks much for any ideas or pro tips.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Back bolt and slit:

Do you have a universal joint for your torque wrench?
I don't think I do. I have a relatively low end 3/8 wrench, and another better one for inch pound low torque. I think I'll need to get one if I don't.
 

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Torquing above 33 ft.lb some shouldn't be a problem as the clamping surfaces will have already contacted each other and are going nowhere. The extra torque will just make the tightness more secure and the bolt a little harder to remove next time. Mechanics would likely torque that bolt to 50ish ft.lb. or two grunts. :)

Good luck with the heat shield. Does it look to be located properly? Maybe use a wood dowel to locate the hole?
 
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The heat shield requires some wiggling to get back into the proper place. It should fall into place by itself, hard to describe. Jeepman gave good advice about using a dowel to line up the holes, a pick could work as well.

As far as that bolt, it looks like one from the power steering line. There’s a power steering line that connects to the back of the subframe with two bolts that look like the ones you posted. Not sure what the heat shields bolts look like, they were missing on my 08 😆.
 

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As far as that bolt, it looks like one from the power steering line. There’s a power steering line that connects to the back of the subframe with two bolts that look like the ones you posted. Not sure what the heat shields bolts look like, they were missing on my 08 😆.
The heat shield bolt is long, for a reason, I guess. :) It's a 10 mm head. The one shown by tuco05tc looks the same as the one shown in the video I posted (at 3:20). It has a "dog" on the end to facilitate alignment, but the "dog" is asleep on the job. :)

Dog / Dog PointAn unthreaded cylindrical tip that is smaller than the fastener diameter. This helps speed alignment during automated assembly. Also called a Pilot Point

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Would have made things easier if you had removed the heat shield. Since you didn't, you bent it and the hole isn't lining up right. Get a strong pick or a punch and align the holes with that first.
 
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The bolt itself should work pretty much as a probe, being as long as it is. Otherwise, a wood dowel. It can be cut to fit in the tight space, while on your back underneath, using your teeth. Don't bite a punch though. :)

This video, per a previous Post, shows the bolts and their location (with a ping) beginning at 1.25.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Jeep. Still no joy :( Problem doesn't appear to be with locating, but just getting the [email protected]## to thread in. I'm now back to taking off the bushing and bracket to hopefully give me more clearance. Hope this isn't something weird where there is a hole in the shield and receptacle underneath that's not actually the hole it should be. I'll check out the video again, but find it really difficult to see what he's getting at on the video. Really wish I had a 3/8 low profile ratchet right now. If anyone has a rec on a relatively low cost decent one, please let me know! really need the low profile working on these vans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Would have made things easier if you had removed the heat shield. Since you didn't, you bent it and the hole isn't lining up right. Get a strong pick or a punch and align the holes with that first.
Good point. It could be the bend.
 

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Hope some one can post pix or video about 5th generation heat shield bolt removal.


.... I'll check out the video again, but find it really difficult to see what he's getting at on the video. Really wish I had a 3/8 low profile ratchet right now. If anyone has a rec on a relatively low cost decent one, please let me know! really need the low profile working on these vans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hope some one can post pix or video about 5th generation heat shield bolt removal.
Thanks. I'm pretty upset right now as I was unable to get the bolt back in, even after taking out bushing and bracket. I could see the bolt end in the hole that appeared exactly the size! Even attached a socket to it to try to get it to thread. Someone else said even the slight bend could be pushing on it just enough to prohibit me from getting it back in. Crazy, but I don't know what else it could be.

The video posted above offers an angle on everything underneath that I can't see. He must be propped up on a slider or something. I'm nervous enough under my van with two HD stands and my floor jack for backup. I'm thinking about getting a boroscope to try and finish this job, as I also dropped the bolt into the frame (easy to do), and recovered it the first time , but can't even find it now.

All in all, fair warning to anyone attempting this job. Be very careful. It can be extremely difficult without the right tools, and strategy. Much morre difficult than the older vans . Hands down. It's all because of the heat shield :(
 

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Hope some one can post pix or video about 5th generation heat shield bolt removal.
Seems some good pictures of the heat shield before hand will help. A universal for your wrenches will help. Getting the bolt out isn't the OP's problem.

Maybe an inspection mirror will help.

A mix-up of bolts maybe. A second hole nearby maybe? At 17:25 looks like a recess around that bolt hole.
 

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The video posted in youtube is about the 4th generation minivan. For the 5th gen, the underneath the engine is diff from 4th one, so about heat shield shape.

......

The video posted above offers an angle on everything underneath that I can't see. He must be propped up on a slider or something. I'm nervous enough under my van with two HD stands and my floor jack for backup. I'm thinking about getting a boroscope to try and finish this job, as I also dropped the bolt into the frame (easy to do), and recovered it the first time , but can't even find it now.

.....
 
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