Anyone who can toss me a wiring diagram for that connector or tell me what=what?

Pull this PDF file from my server and go to page 876 in the file (8Wa-47-5). That and the following four pages show the high line audio wiring. The amp power to each speaker is the Dark Green/Gray stripe wire.

 

That's a really handy document, thanks for sharing. I've been dormant on this site for a while, but it's time to take care of some long-delayed repairs on the old van. I'll be keeping this for reference, thanks again.

 

Got it Doug, thanks!

To add to my earlier open questions, I was looking at likely replacement speakers and was thinking about these: JBL GTO938 6x9 Speakers (pair)

They're 2-ohm impedance, relatively high RMS/Max Wattage values, any thoughts on how they'd sound (subjectively, of course)? I tend to run my stereos about 40% front/60% rear usually to take advantage of the empty space and not have it so "in my face" - what's the consensus on mixing coax with component speakers in this fashion?

 

The factory connector for the rear speaker has the following pin-outs, looking at the open side of the connector with the locking tab at the top:
3-2-1
6-5-4

1: (20)DG/WT Pillar Speaker -
2: (16)GY/DG Amplified Speaker Ground
3: (20)DG Pillar Speaker +
4: (20)DG/DB Rear Speaker +
5: (16)DG/GY Radio Choke Output
6: (20)DG/OR Rear Speaker -

IIRC, the Inifinty system uses amps located on the speakers. The front door and rear main speakers have the amps, and the dash and pillar speakers are fed from those connection points as those speakers use only a two-wire connector. As such, I imagine the pillar and dash speakers are getting any amp power from the amp output at the main speaker they are connected to. The head unit has a single connector for triggering the amp relay in the IPM which then supplies the power to the speaker amps.

 

Thanks for the confirmation on the wire colors and pinout, that helped me a lot. Last night I tested a seemingly decent pair of BOSS speakers I had from my previous car and they sounded like garbage, and quiet as ****. So I'm back to trying to find OEM replacements with the integral amp.

I found a pair of Chrysler Infinity 4685610A speakers (onboard amp, 35w RMS, integral coaxial tweeter, 4 pin connector) - would these do? I'd still have to cut the factory connector off and splice, but wires 2,4,5 & 6 would be connected and leave 1 & 3 unconnected, I assume.

 

Check out these on eBay. They were nice enough to cut the wires ahead of the connector and I'm counting 6 wires on the body-side connector. Same part number 4685610A. I'm guessing they would work.

 

I ended up ordering those Doug, those were exactly the ones I was talking about. Looks like I'll just have to match up the wires like you said, I'll know in a week.

 

Cool beans. It was nice that the eBay'er had put up the detailed pics with the wiring. Takes some of the confusion out. Let us know if they work out.

 

There is a T&C at the junkers here with those speakers, its a limited. ( 6 pins with built in tweeter/sub)

 

So I got the speakers, wired up the left one and tested with the stereo set to left rear... And got nothing. This is starting to be more trouble than it's worth... Do I need to wire up both sides to get any rear output (in other words did it need to be drawing power on both sides to activate one side's amp at all?)

 

Nope, plugging one in should make it work. Sounds like someone screwed around with the wiring. Check the radio fader settings, that failing, check the rear wiring for signal , and lastly, pull the radio if all else fails check wiring. sounds like someone has been in there.

 

Check for voltage across pins 2 (amp ground) and 5 (+ radio choke output). Those should be powering the built-in amp, ~12V. You should also see voltage of some kind across the +/- signal wires. If the front speakers are Infinity's and are working, the amp relay is working. Or try hooking them to the door speaker connection - they appear to use the same connector and the wiring matches.