[Derrick1971]

The legality of driving one with just a bill of sale will be up to the states you're driving through.

I just bought a full sized van from a dealer in Alabama. I'm in Florida. All they do in AL is give you a bill of sale and you're allowed to drive with that for 30 days while they send you the title or other paperwork. No temp tag or anything. That's at a dealer. They sell to customers in other states and said they haven't had any problems. I drove it like that for a few weeks. The South is pretty chill about stuff like that though. YMMV if you head into the more regulated states.

Given the OPs admittedly limited mechanical skills I wouldn't recommend he inspect and drive any unknown car across country. Renting a truck and trailer would be the best bet.

 

[BrendanK]

My opinion, don't buy any van that doesn't "run and drive" at least, from anywhere really, but especially an auction. IAA and Copart are about a hair above basically being a junkyard. Whether everyone will admit it or not, the transmissions in these vans are garbage, and often the reason they end up in places like these

However... if you're careful about getting a good titled car, make sure the state and insurance won't give you a hard time (probably won't if the title's good), you can get a good cheap car from a "bad" place. Also if you were to use the same broker that I do, it can sometimes take up to or even more than a month to get the title. For me, typically that works out, because I can fix up the brakes, steering, tires, etc to make it road safe while I'm waiting anyway.

All of that having been said, it's still the dumbest way to buy a car you intend to use as a daily. If you're willing to roll the dice on 2-3k worth of a risky buy, definitely post a link and let us scrutinize it. I'm more than happy to tell you what a good or bad idea any car is the best I can see, and I know others are too.

Another possibility is buying something from facebook, but the logistics get annoying to the point of near impossibility. It's cheap enough to get a rental car and drive yourself where you've made a deal to buy a car, but you have to trust the seller. It's technically legal supposedly to drive a car home you don't have registered in your name yet, but legal and "legal" are 2 different things. I'd personally also never drive a car with essentially unknown history that far before taking it to a mechanic, and in a strange place, good luck finding a good one. They're like hen's teeth these days.

2001 CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY LIMITED for Auction - IAA

2001 CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY LIMITED for auction at St. Louis (IL) branch location. Actual Cash Value: $1,300 USD - Mileage: 108,081 mi (Actual) - Color: BLUE - Stock: 17446250

www.iaai.com

This one isn't available yet, but it's gonna take me a month or two to get the money together anyways, so I'm just watching it for now. It's a repo, rather than a collision salvage or something someone surrendered due to mechanical issues. Says runs and drives, but they don't have a video of the engine running yet like they do for some of the other ones. 110k miles...I think I'm in love boys.

The fact that it's from Illinois concerns me though...no visible rust in the photos, but that doesn't meant there isn't a time bomb hiding underneath. What're we thinking?

 

[Groosalugg]

What're we thinking?

That'll never come up for auction. Look at the dates on the pictures.

Given the OPs admittedly limited mechanical skills I wouldn't recommend he inspect and drive any unknown car across country.

Agreed, and the price might not be all that bad for a uhaul. My suggestion, if you're going for ultra cheap, would be go through the hassle of finding a decent mechanic where it's bought and getting steering, brakes, etc looked over and aligned (regardless of what the seller tells you) before thinking about any real distance.

But really, to avoid BS with stupid cops, the uhaul is by far the best idea. Shell out the money for that.

 

[BrendanK]

DetailsNotFoundView

187k miles, says there's damage on the left side, but I'm not seeing any. Unless it's to the frame/some mechanical components on the left side? The mileage isn't much of an improvement over mine, but it's not a huge increase either. Pictures on this one are actually recent, again not up for auction yet, but I'm watching it. The stated actual cash value being $825 concerns me...

DetailsNotFoundView

This one is 100k miles "older" than mine. But again, if I absolutely had to, I could swap over the engine from mine, depending on how cheap I got this one for...I'm mostly thinking body condition with these, not so much engine and transmission. I'm not afraid to put a new engine/transmission into a body that's going to last. Says the primary damage is mechanical...not sure what to make of that.

DetailsNotFoundView

This one seems like the best one so far. Not yet available, but the pictures are recent. Once again, not a huge improvement on mileage, about the same really. Says right side damage, but I don't really see anything, other than what looks like a possible dent on the dog leg?

DetailsNotFoundView

This is the last "good" one I could find. Pretty much the same comments as the one above in Virginia. This one is the best case by far, mileage wise. There are a few marked "Stationary" with better mileage, but without a way of telling what's wrong with them, I'd rather not chance it.

There's a bunch of recently received Chryslers that don't have photos yet, but I'm not holding my breath for any of those for obvious reasons. Pickings are kind of slim, it seems...I might have to consider moving to a different type of vehicle if none of these pan out.

 

[Groosalugg]

#1, The passenger side body lines don't match like it was hit there previously. I suspect this one sat for a while, but the engine runs good. Might be a good one.

#2, Heap of junk.

#3, Obvious whiskey dent. The hood's messed up. I don't know why, but I'm suspicious of that engine. Something seems off, but I don't know what.

#4, Reeks of smoke. See the felony forest they got in there?? Grip'n ripped console for... why??? Pass.

Of those, #1 is the winner. I'd say, make an IAA account, favorite that, and join and watch the auction for it and other decent ones to get an idea of the going price. For gen 2's that I watch, it's usually in the 350-550 dollar range. It depends on a lot of things, but that's where they usually land. Unless they're absolute gem's, then it can go a heck of a lot higher than that. It's an auction, of course.

 

[BrendanK]

#4, Reeks of smoke. See the felony forest they got in there?? Grip'n ripped console for... why??? Pass.

Call me crazy, but I don't mind the smell of smoke. My mom smokes, my dad's mom smoked, I was getting out of elementary school when restaurant smoking was banned. To me it just smells like childhood and nostalgia. I'm especially capable of dealing with it if it reeking increases my chances of getting it for significantly cheaper. I have a friend who does detailing, so getting the carpet, insulation foam, headliner, and seats ripped out and replaced wouldn't be that expensive if I cared enough to get that done. Unless you mean smoke from fire damage?

So I'll keep an eye on 1 and 4, then.

 

[Groosalugg]

Those are just assumptions, of course.

#4 might actually be a flood car the more I look at it. Not sure.

 

[Mopar-Mofun]

Any suggestions on what I should be checking for the poor economy, then? I already changed the spark plugs back in April. My next step is going to be checking the fuel injectors, PCV valve, and the exhaust system upstream of the muffler.

oh, there are several.

• Tires. Find good SUV tires with inflation of 44psi. Not knowing your yearly weather condition, I can not recommend a tire brand nor tread. Keep them inflated to the 44psi.
• check the WHEEL BEARINGS. Especially the front. Mine OE original on the driver side fell apart literally about 125K miles. Go with a trusted brand. Others will chime in here on what is available from RockAuto.
• Air-intake mod. For the 3.3L & 3.8L, I have done extensive mods to this to align with the air volume of the 5th gen 3.3L & 3.8L. I've never seen a I4 2.4L engine up close, so I don't know if it's the same.
• Rear exhaust resonator delete. For your I4 2.4L, it might have a different sound with it off. I came across a person who did this and it sounded nice and not at all loud on the 3.3L & 3.8L vans.
• Spark Plugs. Double platinum are the ideal. I ran with the single platinums for a while, but the full benefit was not there.
• The rear end sage of the on-leaf/uni-leaf. Once the back end was more supportive and the height lifted about 1-2 inches, the 'race angle' greatly improved the coasting with the new wheel bearings all around.
• injectors. YES, this is a huge benefit too. After 150K miles, to restore the MPG, the injects are worn due to the long use of ethanol. I've puled mine out a few times, cleaned in the ultrasonic parts cleaner and the last time noticed the damage has gotten so much worse. Again, others will chime in here on what is available from RockAuto.
• oil filter, SIZE MATTERS. The tallest filter I found is the Purolator L30001. The more surface area in the filter, the longer it will last and provide the best flow as it fills up in time. You can cross reference this filter number to your brand and verify the height nearly matches too.
• The 3.3L can swap in the 3.8L throttle body. This helps in many ways, almost a listing unto itself.
• Ignition wires and coil. Many times people will clean their vans inside and out. Yet, they really neglect under the hood. Poor spark and coil issues are due to grimy oil and dirty down in the spark plug seats, the ignition wires and the coil. This leads to all kinds of MPG losses.
• PCV - Keeping it clean and the hoses clean. I've done the PCV intake air system mod too. No back oily residue burped onto the air-intake filter.

I also use Lithium Grade-2 or a high moly GL-4 content for greasing the fittings.

BTW, when was the last ATF+4 trans flush and filter done?

I was on the HyperMile forum years back, it's now a new name.

Hypermiling - Fuelly Forums

Hypermiling - This forum is specifically for dealing with hypermiling techniques, not general fuel economy. Includes , Scangauge, OBDII and SuperMid issues.

www.fuelly.com

Fuel Saving Tips | Fuelly

The keys are,

• Let the engine breathe. Air in via the intake, out via the exhaust. Thus my two mods.
• Let the vehicle ROLL. Rolling free is BEST. Bearings, Tires, and suspension parts.
• Let the fuel burn properly. Ideal plugs, routing of the ignition wires, and coil. Keep them clean!

 

[Mopar-Mofun]

Since my van's engine is still pretty healthy (as far as I can tell), I could also just grab a lemon with a dead engine and swap it over...I just got tie rods done last September, so those should still be good enough to move over if need be as well. And since I'm doing brakes on the Bucket, if the new one needs them, those could be transferred as well. So all in all, not a bad idea.

I think what I'll do is take the bucket to a mechanic and have them tell me what's good on this van, and I'll make a mental list of everything, and pick off what I need, that's actually salvageable...which probably won't be much. I'll also look for a 2001 or 2002, since everyone says those had the best features. But an '03 with 100k miles isn't anything to scoff at. I've definitely got things to consider...might be getting myself a new car for Christmas this year 😁

WOW, the entire rail is like GONE. 😢 The engine may go, go, go, but the rest is dissolving away! ! !
My 2007 TC SSE Touring isn't this bad. You are running on borrowed time!

I've totally restored mine, it only had minimal surface spots of discolored rust.

You can find deals on these vans with limited to no rust in the south for under $3,500. And with more options vs. your no thrills ride.

 

[BrendanK]

WOW, the entire rail is like GONE. 😢 The engine may go, go, go, but the rest is dissolving away! ! !
My 2007 TC SSE Touring isn't this bad. You are running on borrowed time!

View attachment 79992

I've totally restored mine, it only had minimal surface spots of discolored rust.

View attachment 79996

View attachment 79997

You can find deals on these vans with limited to no rust in the south for under $3,500. And with more options vs. your no thrills ride.

Thing's so rusted, it's not even worth selling for scrap metal! I'm glad I caught this before I threw too much money into it. Need to come up with a good way to send her off...is it weird for me to feel oddly sentimental towards a car? This was my first vehicle, and I was actually really proud to be taking care of and fixing something on my own.

 

[Mopar-Mofun]

Thing's so rusted, it's not even worth selling for scrap metal! I'm glad I caught this before I threw too much money into it. Need to come up with a good way to send her off...is it weird for me to feel oddly sentimental towards a car? This was my first vehicle, and I was actually really proud to be taking care of and fixing something on my own.

I hear you really well. I posted in the other thread, save it! Use it as your WINTER only vehicle. The with the new-to-you rust free van, drive that the other 3 seasons.

Oh, I bet there are some things on it still worth something. You had stated the engine and trans is still going.

 

[BrendanK]

I hear you really well. I posted in the other thread, save it! Use it as your WINTER only vehicle. The with the new-to-you rust free van, drive that the other 3 seasons.

Oh, I bet there are some things on it still worth something. You had stated the engine and trans is still going.

Sadly storage space is at a premium...I'm not yet in a position where I can afford to rent a storage locker big enough to park a car in year round to hold whichever one I'm not using. No garage, and we have a two car driveway AT BEST. So between me, and mom when she gets her car replaced, and my sister who's getting to that age, we're already out of room. Not to mention, the Bucket was a barebones package. She doesn't even have anti-theft, so if someone really wanted to get her, they could.

 

[Derrick1971]

Get rid of it when you get another one. It's not unusual to form an attachment but that'll pass once it's gone. You haven't had it that long. It's okay to like, or even love, a vehicle but they're here to serve us. Not the other way around. Don't put their well being over yours or your family's.

It's not free to keep a vehicle. You have to insure it, register it and it will need some maintenance. That's money that could go to the new van. Do you really want to risk your life in some neglected rust bucket in the middle of a harsh winter when you need it to keep you safe? For what? To keep another old van safe? Again, don't put the welfare of a vehicle over your own.

 

[BrendanK]

DetailsNotFoundView

Best one by far. Runs and drives, 140k miles, but the body's a little beat up. The front driver's side fender doesn't line up with the door, not sure if it's the door or fender that's damaged. But the driver's door and fender on mine are fine, and this one's also white, so I can swap either one over no problem. I also don't really care about the headlight, I'm also missing my passenger headlight from the accident, so that's an expense I'd have to factor in either way.

Really, the name of the game here is "Frame is in good condition". I can do any amount of body/powertrain work necessary, **** I'd even be willing to buy something with NO engine in it and just swap mine over (assuming it'd fit).

 

[Groosalugg]

Kansas is another hit or miss state with rust I believe. Probably mostly fine, but the northern Kansas cars I bet can be rusty heaps. However, I think this one's fine.

The only major problem I can possibly see is if this is damage to the structure or not.

Keep in mind, though. This is a repossession and, assuming it's a good title, will include paperwork related to whatever lien was associated with the title. The keyword there being WAS. If you were to buy this car from IAA, the company that issued the lien (looks like Title Max in this case) should be satisfied with the sale price and not attach any skeletons that'll haunt you later when you got to title it in your name. That might be possible, but my last van was a Title Max and there wasn't any problem.

But, the rules between different states vary, so do look into possible problems with that BEFORE you bid on anything. If you accidentally buy anything with a bad title from here or anywhere else, it'll be less annoying to scrap the car and buy another one depending on the problem. CLEAN title or ORIGINAL title or don't bid. A repo may say the title is CLEAN in the "title notes" spot though sometimes, like my T&C which titled in my name fine.

 

[BrendanK]

Something I noticed by running the VIN is the Jeep VIN reader website says this car has keyless entry, but the van doesn't seem to come with a remote...

https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=1B4GP44372B627238

So I'm assuming that's bad?

 

[FabricGATOR]

My friend bought a Toyota Highlander and I drove it back 200 miles. Never did it occur to me that the key I was operating with (the only key) was the valet transponder key.
It is still the only key as a replacement key is unable to be made from a valet key (for security, I get it) BUT supposedly the dealership couldn't even help as there was only one (toyota) dealer in the Southeast that had the ability and they were several hundred miles away...

 

[FabricGATOR]

Steve Jobs never had a plate on his Mercedes in Washington for the 30 day rule. He would simply buy a new car every thirty days...

 

[BrendanK]

I mean they have an engine running video, but I don't necessarily know if they used the key, or hotwired it. I would ASSUME that they would just say "Yeah, we don't have the key" and mark it as stationary if they had to hotwire it to get it running, but I'm getting the impression giving these guys the benefit of the doubt on anything is a bad idea. If I can get another key/remote made, then I'm all good, but I would also assume that's kind of hard to tell without seeing the van, right?

 

[Groosalugg]

I mean they have an engine running video, but I don't necessarily know if they used the key, or hotwired it. I would ASSUME that they would just say "Yeah, we don't have the key" and mark it as stationary

You're talking about the white van (40212927)? They have the key, they'll list they have the key on the page for any car they do, and they'll put a photo of any keys they have with it.

Sure doesn't look original, but absolute worst case, a locksmith can "decode" the right key if that one doesn't work for some specific lock. For wireless things, you got me... I'd assume they can program one for an older van pretty easy.

The toyota keys at some point had a small laser etched metal tag that was included with them and needed for the dealership to make you another key. That was only the case because of the electronic immobilizer thing built into the key though. At least that's what I was told when I bought the tacoma.