[katoranger]

I understand what you mean by clean. I grew up in Northern Iowa and Minnesota. I have been in the south for the last 20 years. Spoiled now.

 

[Westphal]

I understand what you mean by clean. I grew up in Northern Iowa and Minnesota. I have been in the south for the last 20 years. Spoiled now.

My parents grew up in towns across the Iowa/Minnesota border from each other. Dad was in Fairmont, MN, and Mom was in Armstrong, IA. We used to go out there every year for vacation.

 

[katoranger]

Just alittle farther west in Worthington.

 

[katoranger]

Here is a pretty nice looking shortie. Kansas City area.

2006 Dodge Caravan/Grand Caravan RS SXT for sale by owner - Overland Park, KS - craigslist

I have a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT, drives very good, everything in it works just fine: AC, heat, radio and Bluetooth, power front seats, power windows and locks, .... The only thing is that the...

kansascity.craigslist.org

 

[BrendanK]

WELP the battery's dead. ****ty Advanced Auto battery lasted less than a year. Whatever, anything I put into this van (within reason) can be moved over to a potential future one, so I'm not too torn up. I am looking for recommendations on battery brands, though. Would like one that has one of those auto-jump features, with the little button on the side.

 

[Groosalugg]

Would like one that has one of those auto-jump features, with the little button on the side.

Personally, battery tenders are awesome and I at least put leads on everything that stick out the hood.

Dropping below 10.5 volts (iirc ) will damage any lead acid battery. Plenty of people tell me I'm wrong and whatever, but if I have one get that low I'll never fully trust it again. Don't care what the testers say. However, lead acid batteries aren't damaged by being fully charged, and the tenders are actually float chargers, so they only top off the battery as needed. But the thing about the average car battery... they're pretty much all made by the same 3 companies.

So, the tenders and the cheapest battery I can find to keep them alive as long as possible hasn't failed me yet.

 

[BrendanK]

Personally, battery tenders are awesome and I at least put leads on everything that stick out the hood.

View attachment 82854

Dropping below 10.5 volts (iirc ) will damage any lead acid battery. Plenty of people tell me I'm wrong and whatever, but if I have one get that low I'll never fully trust it again. Don't care what the testers say. However, lead acid batteries aren't damaged by being fully charged, and the tenders are actually float chargers, so they only top off the battery as needed. But the thing about the average car battery... they're pretty much all made by the same 3 companies.

So, the tenders and the cheapest battery I can find to keep them alive as long as possible hasn't failed me yet.

I keep telling myself I need to get a multimeter for rough and dirty electrical troubleshooting. I'll take it to AutoZone and see what they say, best I can do until I manage to get a meter. Any brand recommendations for a multimeter?

What's the cold crank amperage needed for these? I remember that being a question they asked me last time I bought a battery (I was wrong, it's been closer to a year and a half), and I didn't know what the answer was.

 

[Road Ripper]

I get the largest battery that will physically fit, as it has the highest cold cranking amps.

For reliability, I buy Interstate. I got one for our Sienna, and the 2003 van I bought had one in so I swapped it into my 2004 for the winter as it is only 3 years old. My old battery that was in my 2004 is an Exide that is 6 years old, and it just couldn't crank the van anymore at 20*F or below. I bought it after researching who makes Interstate batteries, and it was actually Exide! 6 years is a pretty good run, especially nowadays when typical batteries only last 3 years.

 

[Mopar-Mofun]

I get the largest battery that will physically fit, as it has the highest cold cranking amps.

For reliability, I buy Interstate. I got one for our Sienna, and the 2003 van I bought had one in so I swapped it into my 2004 for the winter as it is only 3 years old. My old battery that was in my 2004 is an Exide that is 6 years old, and it just couldn't crank the van anymore at 20*F or below. I bought it after researching who makes Interstate batteries, and it was actually Exide! 6 years is a pretty good run, especially nowadays when typical batteries only last 3 years.

Same here, my Exide lasted 11 years. They are one of the oldest battery makers still around today.

 

[katoranger]

I keep telling myself I need to get a multimeter for rough and dirty electrical troubleshooting. I'll take it to AutoZone and see what they say, best I can do until I manage to get a meter. Any brand recommendations for a multimeter?

What's the cold crank amperage needed for these? I remember that being a question they asked me last time I bought a battery (I was wrong, it's been closer to a year and a half), and I didn't know what the answer was.

You can pick up a multimeter at harbor freight for less than $10. They have more expensive too, but the cheap one will do basic tasks.

 

[FabricGATOR]

WELP the battery's dead. ****ty Advanced Auto battery lasted less than a year.

Even the "schitty batteries" from Advanced are warrantied for at LEAST a year

Personally, battery tenders are awesome and I at least put leads on everything that stick out the hood.



Dropping below 10.5 volts (iirc ) will damage any lead acid battery. Plenty of people tell me I'm wrong and whatever, but if I have one get that low I'll never fully trust it again. Don't care what the testers say. However, lead acid batteries aren't damaged by being fully charged, and the tenders are actually float chargers, so they only top off the battery as needed. But the thing about the average car battery... they're pretty much all made by the same 3 companies.

So I am not too worried about drawing a battery down low AS LONG AS it gets charged back up again pretty soon.

WATER LEVEL now, if the water gets boiled out because you are continue to charge over long long time (yeah, they can get damage from overcharge) then the plates are exposed to air, they'll oxidize, and that surface area will no longer be active.

Johnson Control, Interstate, and maybe it is Exide are the BIG three in USA.

My dealership 2010 new Toyota came with a Panasonic FLA (Flooded Lead Acid Battery) and that thing lasted almost 12 years... I replaced it before I ever had trouble BUT kept it for farm use... it didn't last much longer. Couldn't buy another Panasonic in Florida or online.

*keep the distilled water level up JUST above the metal plates, then charge it full THEN top up the water to full AFTER fully charging.

Remove your battery and wash the case every year or so (believe it or not, a battery that hasn't been washed can discharge (slowly drain) through the residue on the plastic battery case)

Same here, my Exide lasted 11 years. They are one of the oldest battery makers still around today.

Love Exide AND get the best price from buying at Home Depot (*take your new battery from the back of the rack, the newest are in the back)

You can pick up a multimeter at harbor freight for less than $10. They have more expensive too, but the cheap one will do basic tasks.

Love these too. I have Fluke and Snap-on meters BUT I HAVE 3- HFT dmm's as with a coupon you get one for free with purchase!
I probably wouldn't have bought one but I'll take one for free every day of the week! [It has a switch, remember to turn it off]

 

[Groosalugg]

WATER LEVEL now, if the water gets boiled out because you are continue to charge over long long time (yeah, they can get damage from overcharge) then the plates are exposed to air, they'll oxidize, and that surface area will no longer be active.

If you're using your granddad's battery charger, maybe. Modern chargers have a lot more science gadgets, especially battery tenders.

 

[FabricGATOR]

If you're using your granddad's battery charger, maybe. Modern chargers have a lot more science gadgets, especially battery tenders.

I agree. I like Optimate as it has multiple 'Plug and Play' programs for the various FLA, AGM, GEL and motorcycle including a repair phase for desulfation.
AND it gives a percent of battery life remains TEST when charging cycle is complete, then it floats.

Now beware a cheap older solar cell. A boat I bought with an aluminum outboard engine bracket bolted to the transom holding twin 200's, they had a solar cell connected to 'keep the batteries topped up'
Well when I surveyed the hull, I asked for a $5,000 allowance because the electrolysis made that structural bracket destroyed like termite damage or like Swiss cheese.

I was digging in a hole like a dental cavity trying to see "how deep" was the damage and my awl (ice pick) went right through the rear plate made of 1/2" 6061-T6 aluminum plate! When I pulled it out, a stream of seawater flowed out like a fountain

 

[FabricGATOR]

WHAT just happened, TRIPPLE TAP!

 

[godtheater]

Get that thing on a lift immediately... Take a hammer with you.. start tapping not real hard just some taps... see where the hammer goes in. I don't care about the rocker panels they always suck.. check mounts and the floor under where driver and passenger are... once you are all done go inside and do the same... It's called the tap test....

ok coolant coolant coolant leak... Inspect rear coolant lines your van should have rear heat. Cut them off!!!!!!! do a rear heat delete and make it front heat only... those rear lines kill our vans motors because of the constant leaking and lack of pressure in the system. With that much rust those lines are toast! Can always go back... But save that motor... or you're going to fry your valve cover gasket and shorten that life of the motor. All the motors in the 4th gen are decent I have gotten over 300K with everyone I owned.

Do that radiator immediately.

replace power steering fluid its most likely burnt

Clean your MAS Air flow sensor

Take some lysol spray the vents below the wipers turn HVAC system on high and spray it... Mold in there... Then do the same inside spray the cabin filter box inlet as well replace filter IF you have one. Do this a couple times.

Remove and check the spare.. If you have stow and go... if will be in the middle under van...

adjust your headlights or in your case headlight!! ... Beams are usually out of wack...

trans don't do a flush yet. just do a fluid and filter swap...

Check battey gorunds..

Anything not working?

 

[BrendanK]

Get that thing on a lift immediately... Take a hammer with you.. start tapping not real hard just some taps... see where the hammer goes in. I don't care about the rocker panels they always suck.. check mounts and the floor under where driver and passenger are... once you are all done go inside and do the same... It's called the tap test....

ok coolant coolant coolant leak... Inspect rear coolant lines your van should have rear heat. Cut them off!!!!!!! do a rear heat delete and make it front heat only... those rear lines kill our vans motors because of the constant leaking and lack of pressure in the system. With that much rust those lines are toast! Can always go back... But save that motor... or you're going to fry your valve cover gasket and shorten that life of the motor. All the motors in the 4th gen are decent I have gotten over 300K with everyone I owned.

Do that radiator immediately.

replace power steering fluid its most likely burnt

Clean your MAS Air flow sensor

Take some lysol spray the vents below the wipers turn HVAC system on high and spray it... Mold in there... Then do the same inside spray the cabin filter box inlet as well replace filter IF you have one. Do this a couple times.

Remove and check the spare.. If you have stow and go... if will be in the middle under van...

adjust your headlights or in your case headlight!! ... Beams are usually out of wack...

trans don't do a flush yet. just do a fluid and filter swap...

Check battey gorunds..

Anything not working?

I'm not too concerned about this one. Just filed my taxes, so my return should be here by mid-to-late February, and my next student loan check should come around the same time. So by April I should be rolling through in a shiny, new to me van.

One thing I am wondering about is getting all of the stuff I've put into this van off, and onto the new one. Just did front brakes, but my current van doesn't have ABS so IDK if I can reuse those, and I did tie rods in October of '23, so those should still be in great condition, would like to swap those over.

 

[Mopar-Mofun]

I'm not too concerned about this one. Just filed my taxes, so my return should be here by mid-to-late February, and my next student loan check should come around the same time. So by April I should be rolling through in a shiny, new to me van.

One thing I am wondering about is getting all of the stuff I've put into this van off, and onto the new one. Just did front brakes, but my current van doesn't have ABS so IDK if I can reuse those, and I did tie rods in October of '23, so those should still be in great condition, would like to swap those over.

I had a 2005 SXT, and when the engine had a bad rod, I got a matching color 2006SE. Swapped over lots to make my 2006 a SEX model. Well, she didn't like that code, so it's an SXE now.

Sooo, come March-ish, we should be helping you to find a SWB model with a good 3.3L. Much of the stuff you added to the 1st should fit on the second.

 

[godtheater]

Best part about the van nothing is really hard just need to follow the few weak points van should be good for a while

everything is cheap