[GCTruckster]

I had this problem too, but since I only replaced the rockers on the exhaust cam bank 1, my engine would start, but had a severe misfire.
I was also sent the wrong rockers from eBay.

Had I not found this thread, I would never thought of checking the rockers.

I think this thread should be a sticky.

 

[Materdaddy]

Wow, I'm glad this thread has helped others as much as it helped me. I'm happy to report the van is still running. Unfortunately if you look at my post history, it wasn't the last issue, but I'm at a little over 130k on the clock and afaik it's running like a top right now. Fingers crossed!

 

[ffestner]

You probably were given the wrong rockers. We bought some off amazon and replaced all on the left head and then that head seemed like no compression. We just thought maybe was off on timing and after buying new parts we finally decided to buy a compression tester and had 0 all three cylinders so i figured the wrockers had to be wrong. Took one up to autozone and matched up mine with a new one and sure enough they were just different enough to not work. Have to lay them flat and rock them and autozone had way more rock.

 

[klmack16950]

Yes just found out the same thing! Ordered our kit from ebay and roller rockers were wrong!

 

[klmack16950]

I just got done replacing all of the rocker arms and lifters on my 2015 and it won't start. I followed a few online guides, torqued everything to spec, etc. and got everything back together late last night, and it won't start. I hear the fuel pump turn on when I put the key in the ignition, and when I turn they key I hear the starter engage and it spins the motor, but it's like there's no compression or something. The motor just spins but doesn't even "chug" like it's trying to fire. There are no codes being thrown when attempting to start or anything.

I've done a visual inspection of what I can see of harnesses and everything seems to be plugged in. I've checked the 4 cam phasers, 2 camshaft position sensors, ignition coils (that I can see), and injectors (that I can see), map, maf, throttle body, oil pressure, oil temperature and all of those appear to be plugged in and fully seated.

Any other things anybody suggests I check before I start taking off the upper intake manifold (again) for a better look?

My rockers held the valves open 6 /32 lower an bent 1 intake valve

 

[klmack16950]

Any chance you moved the timing chain on the sprockets? Did you remove the OCVs or just lean the cams? Oil soak the lifters before install? Are you sure all rockers were properly seated on both the lifters and valves?

Check your new rockers they don't match up

 

[Robfall]

I will warn. eBay says they fit, Amazon says they fit.......THEY DONT KNOW THEIR...... FROM A HOLE IN THE GROUND. THEY HAVE NO IDEA ABOUT A 3.2 PENTASTAR. CHECK, CHECK AND RECHECK PART NUMBERS. I HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUES WHEN TRYING TO FIND ENGINE PARTS FOR MY 2016 3.2L. I HAVE (2) 2016 JEEP CHEROKEE's. BOTH 3.2L.

 

[kbcando2]

Great read. Just got a '14 T&C. Cheap $1000. 238,000K It's got the tick. Other than that everything works. Interior a 9. After massive detailing. Kids. I love these vans. I just wish Chrysler didn't cut soooo many mechanical corners. Hence Stellantis. An American shame.

 

[Robfall]

Great read. Just got a '14 T&C. Cheap $1000. 238,000K It's got the tick. Other than that everything works. Interior a 9. After massive detailing. Kids. I love these vans. I just wish Chrysler didn't cut soooo many mechanical corners. Hence Stellantis. An American shame.

If cam is good I would say ONLy replace what's needed. I had to replace a cam. But before that I just replaced rocker and valve compensators as they started tap. BUT don't let it go. If it's loose then replace. If you hear tap look at it as soon as you hear.

I bought Mopar cam. Changed and now I have gotten at least to the point of start but dies like running out of gas 30ish secs later. If I still had old can I would put it back in just to see if it fixes. But it gone already. Dealer said ECU cause it wouldn't start. Another shop said valves bent. Brought home And tested with cams in rest position and no issues. Changed plugs and started right up. Dealer said ASD relay not activating but if case it wouldn't start. Live in small town so can't find good mechanic. Started this project in January 2025. Been sitting in driveway ever since.

Just saying get rockers done ASAP as driving chews cam. And don't get to deep. K.I.S.S.

Good luck

 

[Turbo84]

The google machine tells me yes. I would think if I screwed up the timing chain or cam sprokets my hand cranking would seize, and/or the starter spinning the motor would have grenaded or something. There have been no "bad" sounding noises like something hitting something it shouldn't, but I'm not ASE certified, I'm YouTube certified, and barely that.


The coilpacks should be fully seated, and unfortunately with the 3.6 they're under the upper intake manifold so I can't check them all without tearing back in. I plan to take the upper intake manifold back off in the next couple of days to triple check the connectors I can't really fiddle with. I plan to unplug all of them and check to be sure no pins look bent, too. They all went in and clicked so I doubt it's that, but I want to eliminate possibilities. I removed the battery for the repair, but I still plan to check fuses.


I'm not sure if there's fuel flow. Unfortunately the fuel rail doesn't have a pressure port (like a schrader or anything) so I guess to test that, I'll take the supply line back off of the rail and see if there's plenty of fuel there leaking out like when I started the repair. I feel like I smell fuel after attempting to start, but there's also brake clean, and other smells in the garage right now so I might just be smelling that. I'll open the garage up and air it out before trying again to see if I smell fuel.

you think wrong being off a tooth or 2 is not enough to cause interference clash but will make it run poorly or not at all, spinning crank with cams not moving and some valves fully open would cause interference damage but that is more than a few teeth off

so relying on no mechanical felt interference is a very inadequate method to assure proper cam timing with crank

 

[snailman153624]

To add to that, the cams on a buddy's Maxima I helped fix once had 34 teeth on the sprockets...the Firestone mechanic installed the belt off a tooth, and then when it ran like crap he adjusted the ignition timing by 11 deg...it was all in the repair sheet.

360/34 is 10.6 deg, and the ignition timing was driven by a gear off the cam.

Needless to say we fixed it and he got his money back.