[Sienile]

I rarely get packages routed through Memphis. Not even the ones from China and Japan. Surprised me that this one went to Macon and not Atlanta. It's finally on its way back to GA after 3 stops in FL. Should have it today. Will deburr it tonight and install it this weekend.

 

[Jeepman]

Living close to a Fedex hub doesn't help much, really.

Packages usually just "touch" the hub and leave.

My daughter found a little trick to have her Amazon packages delivered on the same day she order it. I tried it and it really works if you live in a major city, otherwise you get it day after. No additional fees either.

Trade secret?

 

[Jeepman]

I rarely get packages routed through Memphis. Not even the ones from China and Japan. Surprised me that this one went to Macon and not Atlanta. It's finally on its way back to GA after 3 stops in FL. Should have it today. Will deburr it tonight and install it this weekend.

Aren't you going to paint it first? or put a ribbon with bow on it?

 

[Sienile]

If it were steel, it might get painted, but aluminum doesn't rust so it's going in naked. Might take more than just tonight to get it deburred. When I put parts on my own cars I always smooth up the body and get rid of any jagged edges that don't serve a purpose. I don't like being bit by cars, especially my own. The casting on this one is pretty rough in spots and there's 7 casting seems with 18 tabs that protrude about .5 mm, some of those tabs are over an inch long. Also the heater hose input is a bit sharp on the inside edge, which will only possibly be an issue during install and removal, but I'm not taking any chances. To give you an idea of how thorough I am in my pre-install prep, when I did my metal coolant crossover it took about 3 hours just to deburr.

This unit was obviously pressure tested. There's a bit of rubber residue on the face of the lower side oil and coolant ports that show it was clamped to a pressure bench. And the inside passages have some signs of being exposed to a degreaser. Makes me feel a bit better about the large amount of casting seems for such a small part.

 

[LEVY]

Trade secret?

It is, for now.

If you have an Amazon Prime account, it shouldn't be that hard to figute it out. Just need to check if it works on any Prime account or just on business accounts.

Will post more later.

 

[Jeepman]

I had a Dorman power steering reservoir for the 2002 DGC which had sharp edges where the inlet hose went on. The Mopar unit was smooth. That turned me off Dorman for awhile.

 

[Sienile]

Remember, my metal coolant crossover is factory Mopar off a Wrangler. It had a few very sharp corners, but you'd have a hard time intentionally cutting yourself on it now.

If the Dorman parts were as polished as the Mopar ones, they'd carry a Mopar price tag.

 

[Jeepman]

Remember, my metal coolant crossover is factory Mopar off a Wrangler. It had a few very sharp corners, but you'd have a hard time intentionally cutting yourself on it now.

If the Dorman parts were as polished as the Mopar ones, they'd carry a Mopar price tag.

You're talking quality control by the Customer.
A cut hand can lead to blood poisoning, can lead to hospitalization, can lead to death. Just sayin. By the way, I do buy Dorman products but am prepared to do the finishing touches.

 

[2015TCDriver2]

Yes, on the coolant. As for the oil, you should remove the filter to let as much drain back to the pan as possible. You won't get all of either, but you can reduce the size of the mess you'll have to clean up and possibly avoid the need for changing the oil.

Do you have a likely estimate of how much coolant I should drain off to be below the level of the oil filter housing?

Also, my Owner's Manual says that Cooling System Capacity is 13.4 Qts plus 2.9 Qts for rear heater. That 16.3 Qts total.

I guess all these vans have rear heaters? I have controls for rear heat.

Thanks for your help in advance.

 

[Sienile]

I just open the radiator drain and collect it in a clean pan to reuse. I let it go until it slows down. Not sure what amount that is, maybe 2 gallons. I think it can be done with taking less out, but it's just simpler to do a full drain. Because of the routing of the cooling system, a lot stays in even once the radiator stops dripping, like the entire rear heater circuit.

 

[2015TCDriver2]

Changed out the oil filter housing yesterday. Took me about 4 -5 hours, including one little snag. I could not get the 2 sensors removed from the factory plastic part. I don't have a bench vise and using two 12" wrenches did not give enough leverage. I took the part to a local auto shop and their mechanic used an impact wrench and got them out easily. Over-thinking that a bit, and I hoped the impact would not have damaged the sensors from vibration. Placing all the parts back in, it seemed like the new cast aluminum part was wider, and at first it did not fit easily between the heads. Jostled the part around a bit and it did finally drop down into position. Refilled my coolant, started up, and sensors are functioning just fine. Went for a test drive. Oil pressure cold was 70-80 psi, then dropped to around 40 psi after warm up. Glad that the EVIC display has that available to monitor. I'll keep a close eye on it for the next few days and watch my coolant level as well.

Glad to have that problematic plastic housing out of my engine bay. The mechanic at the garage mentioned that they change these all the time, and, not just on Chrysler models, as other makers have gone the same route and used plastic. He asked if mine had the leak yet and I told him that I was doing mine preemptively.

Will follow up here if I run into any problems.

 

[R/Thirteen]

Second failure of my stock oil cooler. I had the end pop out, replaced it with the dorman part. Nice easy $20 repair. This past oil change, I had the entire center tube come loose. As expected I was unable to reseat the center tube back in its hole. I did however, put it back together while I await parts.

Needless to say, I'm in need of this repair on my 2013. I was hoping someone could clarify a couple of points for me. It is my understanding that the 2013 cooler stack will not fit the dorman part. I ordered the Mopar part for a '15 to get a new cooler and sensors.

This is my question. The gaskets that are needed to seal the Mopar cooler stack to the dorman aluminum body will be new but will have been compressed. Am I able to re-use those gaskets or do I need to get a set of new oil cooler to housing body seals?

While I have it apart, I am going to do the spark plugs as well (103K).

Take care everyone.

(One other curiosity, if anyone knows. I am not planning on driving the van until I get it fixed. But with the center tube loose, does this mean the oil is being unfiltered, or that I have no bypass in the event the filter were plugged?)

 

[2015TCDriver2]

This is my question. The gaskets that are needed to seal the Mopar cooler stack to the dorman aluminum body will be new but will have been compressed. Am I able to re-use those gaskets or do I need to get a set of new oil cooler to housing body seals?

Dorman # 926876 comes with the gaskets for top and bottom of the new aluminum casting. They also provide new gaskets for the upper and lower intake manifolds. You should be OK.

 

[Sienile]

With the tube missing you ALWAYS have bypass, which is no good. You're right to not drive it like that.

The Dorman part comes with all the gaskets, even a complete intake set. Remember after the swap your filter number changes, so inform your mechanic if you don't do your own oil changes. It would have been cheaper to get the cooler block, filter, cap, and sensors individually and not as the complete unit.

 

[R/Thirteen]

It would have been cheaper to get the cooler block, filter, cap, and sensors individually and not as the complete unit.

It would have been cheaper to get the cooler block, filter, cap, and sensors individually is for sure true, but I could not find the oil cooler block available separately. Might help others if you could say where to obtain one.

 

[R/Thirteen]

I realize my answer might sound snippy. I did not mean to come across that way. I tried to say that I was unable to find the cooler block available separately. But having this information out there could help the next folks that need to do this repair.

 

[Sienile]

It would have been cheaper to get the cooler block, filter, cap, and sensors individually is for sure true, but I could not find the oil cooler block available separately. Might help others if you could say where to obtain one.

Rockauto had all the parts in stock when I ordered mine. But I already had one of the newer models so I didn't need it.

 

[2015TCDriver2]

Here are two links:
Oil Cooler from Rock Auto. $72.99

More Information for SKP SK117121

Oil Filter Cap. (I used my old one, no problems. Used both existing sensors as well.)

More Information for MOPAR 68191350AA

Filter Housing, Filter Cap, Oil Cooler/Rad, Oil PSI, and Coolant Temp Sensor).

All the needed parts seem to be in stock at Rock Auto, as of today.

 

[R/Thirteen]

In case anyone is wondering, the bolts that held the plate style cooler to the plastic housing body took a 4mm hex bit to remove. And, despite what I read, at least on my cooler, the oil pressure sensor took a 24mm to remove. As it always is with this kind of work your mileage may vary.

 

[Sienile]

Hmm... They were a torx bit on mine. 24mm might be right for the sensor. I know it's bigger than it looks like.