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Ok, so here's a look at the plate cooler. Just in case anyone is interested in which passages flow what fluid. I find it interesting the scratches and marks that are present on the cooler. I wish I would have had a way to pressure test the dorman seals before installing.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #82 ·
If you check your passages in the filter adapter (both stock and Dorman upgrade), you'll find that the cooler is passive because both ports for both fluids connect to passages that directly connect them with no restrictors or valves. Theoretically you could slap on a block off plate and be fine. I'm not risking it though. :p
 
That TSB just shows the filter change in '14.
 
Discussion starter · #86 ·
Did anybody reference?. TSB 09-003-13
A major 3.6L engine issue. Free fix or $600 at dealership.
That's the root cause behind this thread existing. Anyone here should know about it already.
 
I’m looking to buy this. It was out of stock on rockauto page but now it has disappeared from the listing altogether. Anybody know whats up with that part or Rockauto?
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
I think they didn't make enough stock. Before they disappeared from major retailers the prices shot up to around $200. Just checked and AutoZone has it for special order at $205. It's on Amazon for $141.

I found a non-Dorman aluminium one with everything already installed and intake gaskets for $275. That might be a cheaper solution for '11-'13 models since the '14+ cooler block is also getting hard to find.
Funny fact. I saw it back in stock on friday for 118€ but since I’m not in a hurry to buy it I just thought that it’s nice that it’s back in stock and I’ll buy it some time later. Little did I know that they will be gone in less than a day.

EDIT: And just like that it came back to stock for 115€ and I quickly bought it.
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
No. The '11-'13 cooler has 4 bolts and they are in different locations from the '14+'s 5 bolts. You will need the cooler block, cap, and filter from a '14+. Best to have spare sensors on hand in case you can't get your old ones off.
 
Discussion starter · #94 ·
Thought I’d share a real life picture of the housing and other parts waiting to be replaced.
Got the temp sensor too? That's the one that usually gets seized in the old plastic units.
 
Got the temp sensor too? That's the one that usually gets seized in the old plastic units.
Nope. Don’t have that one. Haven’t heard anybody say that the temp sensor gets stuck and a new one should be installed. Only thing I’ve heard was that it’s better to get a new oil pressure sensor because from time to time they malfunction. So I guess we’ll see.


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I just replaced my oil filter housing preemptively at 27,000 miles with the aluminum Dorman unit, and I, too, couldn't get the temp sensor out. I destroyed it in the process, so had to stop everything to get a new one at the parts store.
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
That's why I keep telling people to get the sensors too. Usually the oil pressure sensor comes out fine, but I've had many temp sensors spin the brass fitting inside the plastic. That means it will leak if you put it back together and you can't get it off to put in the new one, so you better have another with you.
 
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What seals did everyone use for the base of their unit? As near as I can tell there are options. The seals dorman ships, mopar black, mopar orange, fel-pro and I am sure there are others.

Also, has anyone else noticed all these parts are hard to come by again?
 
Discussion starter · #100 ·
Use what came with it.

Lots of things are hard to get again. Covid labor shortages were real and many people have still not went back to work. Once people finally realize the current variants are rarely serious, things should slowly start getting back to normal. Probably mid-2023 at the rate things are going.
 
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