Need the codes. Could be any number of things, from a bad ABS sensor to a corrupted configuration inside the ABS module.

 

My friend loaned me his scan tool that can read the ABS codes. My only code is C2200.
The following is the diagnostic path I found on the internet. Any other advice?

Diagnose C2200 trouble code
Trouble code C2200 indicates an antilock brake module internal failure. The trouble code can be caused by:

• WIRING HARNESS, TERMINAL, CONNECTOR DAMAGE

• FUSED B+ CIRCUIT(S) SHORTED TO GROUND, VOLTAGE, OR OPEN

• GROUND CIRCUIT(S) OPEN

• ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE FAILURE

Disconnect the wiring harness connector at the ABM. Probe pins 1, 8 and 32 for battery power supplied by the TIPM. If you see battery power, check for ground on pins 16 and 47. If you don’t see power or ground, determine the reason before suspecting the ABM. If you do see battery and ground, the ABM is faulty and must be replaced. The new unit must be programmed to the vehicle to operate properly. If you are buying a rebuilt ABM, make sure the rebuilder programs it to your vehicle. If you buy a junkyard module, you will have to pay a shop to program it for you.

 

Do the lights go off, or stay on, or off and on. Have you had work done in the wheel areas? Need codes to start - AutoZone can read for you, free. We would just be guessing.

 

The lights stay on. I was not aware that Autozone would read these manufacturer-specific codes (non OBD-II codes).

 

May I suggest you consider a laptop based diagnostic tool such as Appcar DiagFCA or AlfaOBD. They both need a device that reads your OBD2 and then transmits it via Bluetooth. (easier than cables). I have this and a scan tool and I prefer this setup. I think Appcar DiagFCA is around 40US for each VIN and the reader is about 30(ish). I'm in Australia so prices are different.

Invariably multiple lights end up being either communication (CAN bus) issues or electrical.
Does your horn work?
Does cruise control work?

The clockspring can be the cause of some of the issues but not all of them

 

This morning the lights did not come on when I started the car. I'll post back later when the lights do come on and I can test the horn and the cruise control.

 

The horn does work when the lights are on. The cruise control turns on when the lights are on, but I haven't actually tested the cruise control to see if it will set at a particular speed.

 

OK. Reason I ask is because I believe you need a functioning Clock spring for you EBP/BAS if it's really stuffed, none of the controls work - including the horn. Clockspring sound good

 

DTC C2200
Anti-lock Brake Module Internal

Probable Causes
Anti-Lock Brake Module
Fused B+ Circuit(s) Shorted to Ground, Voltage, or Open
Ground Circuit(s) Open
Wiring Harness, Terminal or Connector Damage

 

If I purchase a new ABS module from my local Chrysler dealer, can the dealer initialize the module (with my vehicle's VIN) before I install it in the car? It seems like this would be a courtesy service that the dealer would provide for my purchase.

 

It still needs to be initialized once installed.

 

I would love to see a good video of removing the ABS module and replacing it, heard the screws can be a pain to remove

Silliness for you, I have had mine go bad and then be ok again after letting it sit outside in extreme heat or extreme cold. Maybe reflowing the solder????? This has happened every 6 months or so for about 5 years. 2008 Town and Country

 

That is quite interesting and your story may be useful to me. I just heard on a popular call-in mechanic advice show that these ABS modules for this vehicle are on backorder with no projected date of when they will be available. I may end up purchasing a used one. Is there an option with reinitializing a used module? How difficult is it to initialize/reprogram a used one?

 

I am posting a problem that has been posted on this forum in previous years. However, in an earlier post(s), the responses were not to the exact set of conditions as I have.

Here is the problem: within two seconds of starting my 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan, SXT, 3.8 L all of the following instrument cluster warning lights come on and stay on: ESP/BAS light, ABS light, Brake light (red), and Traction Control light. No driving of the vehicle is required for these all to come on. This began as an intermittent problem, i.e. these lights did not come on at every start up, but now it appears to be happening on every startup.

Considering that all of these lights come on without the vehicle moving, I'm hoping someone with experience and knowledge of these systems can eliminate a lot of possible causes and come close to pinpointing the source of the problem.

I do not have a scan tool that will read codes from these modules, and I know having the specific fault code(s) that are set for these systems would narrow down the list of possible cause of the warning lights and the trouble code(s). I'm appealing to those of you who know these systems well and possibly have had exactly the same conditions with the problem.

Check your Power Distribution Box (fuse box) my 2013 GC was acting similar, found corrosion on relays and fuses a good cleaning fixed problem.

 

I doubt this new information makes any difference in the diagnosis, but now the lights do not necessarily come on immediately upon startup. I may have to drive a short distance (less than 0.1 mile) before the lights come on. And as before, sometimes I can go for a short trip (2 miles) and the lights never come on.

 

when my lights came on it was when I hit about 10 miles an hour and I believe that is when the ABS system does a self check and that's when the lights turn on.

 

Considering that finding a replacement antilock brake module may be very difficult, I may be able to have mine rebuilt as riscoscoro suggested. While my defective antilock brake module is out for repair, can I drive the car by surrounding the hydraulic control unit and pump in plastic, or is driving the vehicle likely to cause harm to these other parts of the system?

 

I thought I read somewhere that it should operate fine, the rebuild companies can probably confirm that, I would love to see a video and tips on the removal if possible

 

Should be able to.

 

Did replacing the ABM fix this issue?

 

I never replaced it since my last post here in 2022. The lights come and go, and they currently have been on for about two weeks. I can now find rebuilt modules from at least a couple of places, including CARDONE from rockauto.com, so perhaps I'll go for it. It's my wife's car, and she's comfortable driving it as is.

 

Thank you for the update. Glad to hear there is no significant issues.

 

My biggest issue at the moment is that the car is due for our North Carolina safety and emissions inspections, and it can't pass the safety inspection with the ABS light on.

 

Still have the C2200? That's either power to the ABS or the module itself having issues.

 

Yes, AlfaOBD indicates C2200, and I have 12 volts getting to the end of the connector. Is it a certain diagnosis that the problem is a failure of the module itself?

 

According to the manual excerpt I posted, if power's there, ABS is bad.

 

Can someone confirm what I need to reprogram a replacement ABS control module on my 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 3.8 L?
I have an OBDLink LX interface, which AlfaOBD says is adequate to run their Android software on my car. The AlfaOBD website also mentions that the "Blue adapter" aka "adapter 5" is needed with the OBDLink LX interface to access the mid-speed CAN bus. However, it is not apparent that I need to access the mid-speed CAN bus to replace the ABS module and to reprogram it.

Can someone tell me if I need the Blue adapter to do this job?

 

No adapter needed. You will need to set the VIN or it may throw a code for that.