The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

Lift Points for 5th Gen 2008-2016

39K views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  mike dee  
#1 ·
Here's a great Dodge shop manual reference

from this link - http://workshop-manuals.com/dodge/grand_caravan/v6-3.6l/maintenance/vehicle_lifting/component_information/service_and_repair/

I just posted this in an old thread. I am creating this new post so it can be found easily.
If the link goes dead, it says -
WARNING: The hoisting and jack lifting points provided are for a complete vehicle. When the engine or rear suspension is removed from a vehicle, the center of gravity is altered making some hoisting conditions unstable. Properly support or secure vehicle to hoisting
device when these conditions exist. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious or fatal injury.
CAUTION: Do not position hoisting device on any suspension component, including the front suspension crossmember, the rear leaf springs, and the rear axle. Do not hoist on the front and rear bumpers, the lower liftgate crossmember, the lower radiator crossmember,
the down standing flanges on the sill or the front engine mount.

The hoisting points are identified by S.A.E. inverted triangle hoisting symbols. The front hoisting points are at the bottom of the font rail below the
hoisting symbol approximately 250 mm behind the front suspension crossmember. When using outboard lift hoists, verify that the hoist lift pads have
been properly adjusted to eliminate contact between the hoist arm and the down standing flange on the sill. The rear hoisting points are the leaf spring
front mounting brackets. The hoist pad must be positioned to pick up the flanges on the bracket, not the leaf spring.

When servicing the leaf springs or the leaf spring mounting brackets, special provisions are required to support the rear of the vehicle. Position the rear
hoist pads under the horizontal surface on the bottom of the sill, inboard adjacent to the flange and centered fore/aft between the jacking indicator tabs on
the lower flange. DO NOT HOIST ON THE FLANGE. Place a soft pad between the hoist and the painted surface on the sill to avoid scratching the
finish.
------------
That doc references SAE symbols for lift points (inverted triangle).

One lift mfgr describes as follows -
NOTE: Some vehicles may have the manufacturer's Service Garage Lift Point locations identified by triangle shape marks on it's undercarriage (reference ANSI/SAE J21841992).
--------
On the image above, they refer to a "drive on lift" for lift positions marked as (1).
It took me a while to realize the are talking about the freaking wheels on the vehicle as lift points.
When you "drive on" the lift which is the style that has ramp things and it simply lifts the vehicle by the tires.
Common for muffler shops or someplace that isn't changing the tires or working on mechanical things that require puling the wheels off.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Can jack stands be placed anywhere other than the lifting points when a floor jack is used? I was under my wife's van today doing an oil change, and I put them where the lift points are, but I jacked by where the K member rear bolts attach. It seemed to do the job, but I added a jack stand with a block of wood under the front header panel in the middle just to be safe. These are not very floor jack friendly at all. I tried my low profile drive on ramps, but they need to be modified a little for the ramp to lock into the tire support better. The extra weight/traction seemed to want to pull the ramp off when driving up.
 
#4 ·
I tried my low profile drive on ramps, but they need to be modified a little for the ramp to lock into the tire support better. The extra weight/traction seemed to want to pull the ramp off when driving up.
The idea I came up with about 20 years ago was to cut 2 2x6 boards about 3 feet long.
Bevel the ends (at least 60 degrees) and attach 2 bolts to one end so that they sit in the holes in the ramps (almost at the top).

I dont bolt them, they just sit in the holes so you can remove the wood for easier movement and storage, thus the bolts are at least 1 inch longer than the wood. (3/8 will be sturdy enough, anything under 5/16 will bend easily.)

This also allows the boards to extend about a foot past the end of the ramp, making a much easier climb.
Its also good for lower clearance cars.
It also prevents the boards from being flung out from under the tires.

I nailed a roofing shingle to the boards which gives much better traction.
Sharp wire mesh can be used, anything you have around the shop that you can secure to the board will work for traction.

The boards are long enough to give you a slighter incline, but also short enough that they dont flex with most vehicles.

I will never use my ramps again without these boards.