Steady red ETC light? You sure it's not the security red dot? ETC looks like (/) with the / being a lightning bolt. Given the history, the TIPM is probably screwed up. Check M27.

B2101 — 2013 Chrysler Town & Country V6-3.6L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2013 Chrysler Town & Country V6-3.6L.

charm.li

 

Thanks for the help.
Yes, its the 'lightning bolt' LED steady red for 20 secs at KeyOn then goes out with no related codes...maybe part of normal dash light KeyOn sequence, I just never noticed it before.
I've checked M27 many times..never blown..swapped with other 10A fuses..all contacts cleaned when TIPM was disassembled (though it looked 'like new' inside).
The link referenced above is what I referred to in my first post (wasn't allowed to post the full link as newbie). The confusing part is that with C7 disconnected from TIPM to test pin 30, the van seems dead..no lights, no response to FOBIK, turning start switch does nothing, pin 30 has no signal & not shorted to gnd...all seems kind of expected since removing C7 would disable the WIN.

Am I misinterpreting the test procedure?

 

..and I was asking about the ETC light..because if it WAS somehow preventing START as a safety feature..Throttle Body is the least expensive thing to replace compared to WIN & TIPM. I'd just expect it throw some related codes.

 

The engine will start even with the throttle body unplugged. Sounds like you have a borked TIPM or WIN.

 

VERY helpful to know about ThrottleBody..especially on long roadtrips. Thanks!

Its frustrating that NONE of the dealers in Phoenix could bother answering my simple question if ETC light being on for 20secs @ KeyRun is expected. Perhaps part the normal indicator sequence at KeyOn, but I've only had the van for 1 yr and it always started right up while I'm pulling seatbelt on, so I never noticed it before.

Now, just wish I could make sense of WIN vs TIPM diagnostics for code B2101. I've read thru both many times and have used similar diagnostics for issues in other cars. When I leave C7 disconnected to test pin 30 & reattached the lrg Red pwr cable to power TIPM, the van is dead (seems likely because that connector is for WIN needed to recognize the FOBIK & wake vehicle).

So there seems to be NO way to complete step 3 of 2nd section:
1. Turn the ignition off.
2. Disconnect the TIPM C7 harness connector. <===I disconnect pwr to TIPM to get at connector, then reattach pwr to TIPM before next step..can't sem to get enough length to leave it attached)
3. Turn the ignition on. <====THIS is where van seems dead, no lights..key not recog'd)
4. Measure the voltage of the (F20) Fused Ignition Run-Start Output circuit at the TIPM C7 harness connector. <===no +V on pin 30, not shorted to gnd)

Am I missing something?

Should I disconnect C7 WITH pwr to TIPM & key in but OFF (seems risky..always been in the habit of disconnecting pwr when messing with electronics, wiring & harnesses)?

Is van being dead with C7 disconnected when power reapplied maybe a clue to my issue??? (To me it seems likely behavior with nothing to recog the FOBIK & wake van)

I haven't found any live data point in my Scanner for Run-Start signal on pin 30 (Pnk/Wh sire)...is it maybe called something else??? (I'm inferring, not, or it likely would have just been part of the shop diagnostics)

 

According to your results of the diag, replace the WIN.

 

I definitely appreciate the help. But I feel like I haven't been able to DO even 1/3 of the B2101 diag yet. As mentioned in step 3 above, there seems no way to Wake the vehicle or turn Ignition ON with harness connector C7 disconnected at TIPM. With C7 removed, how is the FOBIK authorized when I reattach battery?

I'm really not being stubborn...just have lots of experience with other electronics and computers...EXTRA careful not to damage anything else in what WAS a wonderfully performing vehicle...AND want to know for future troubleshooting since its my first encounter with both TIPM & WIN. They don't seem terribly robust or forgiving from the many posts I've read.

To maybe be more precise, here's what I've been doing attempting the steps above. I HAVE to remove lrg Red Cable on TIPM just to get the TIPM out of bracket, so I disconnect battery to be safe, then pull C7, then put TIPM back into bracket so I can reattach Lrg Red Cable (with C7 off to the side to test pin 30), then reattach battery. At that point, there seems no way to WAKE the vehicle...no lights, no indicators, no response to FOBIK..nothing.

Because the steps don't specifically say to disconnect power to TIPM before disconnecting C7..am I perhaps, somehow, SUPPOSED to pull C7 WHILE TIPM still has power & FOBIK has already been authorized & in the Off position? I've been inferring NOT given the short pwr cable & protective lug on TIPM. There's no way to free-up more length on lrg Red pwr cable without opening the harness it comes out of (I already pulled the plastic rivet attaching it to battery tray just to get enough slack to remove it from TIPM protective lug).

OR, are you saying because M27 is good (+12.6V at front blade with fuse removed, fuse tested then replaced)...and WIN seems dead w/C7 removed...THAT is indicating WIN failure? I see from the wiring diagram that WIN pwr comes out C6..not tested..but assume it's getting pwr because WIN authorizes my FOBIK to unlock car & recognize all 4 key positions when C7 is in place.

I really don't see HOW to do step 3 if FOBIK can't be authorized after battery is reconnected w/C7 removed...and feel like I haven't been able to complete even the first section of Diagnostic.

I TRULY appreciate patience in helping me understand what I'm missing.

 

You're not going to get the van to turn on like normal when that C7 connector is unplugged. If pin 30 has no voltage with the key turned or connection to ground, and there's no break in the wire between WIN and TIPM, the diag says the WIN is at fault.

 

Very helpful. Thanks!

Is the WIN really so delicate that it COULD be damaged by repeated lock signal from glitchy FOBIK? (maybe coincidental, but the only thing that happened just before NoCrank in an otherwise perfectly running vehicle..Same NoCrank after retrieving new non-glitchy FOBIK)

Is there ANY workaround for this condition if I'm on long roadtrip far from home? (like forcing C7 Pin 30 high either temporarily or from a fuse working at KeyOn) I miss the days when you could at least jump the starter to get back into civilization.

 

Soooo...turns out my ENTIRE mess was caused by remnants of KARR Security/Disable System tucked way up in dash (seemingly common by SoCal Dealers on Lease and Credit Risk vehicles, that previous owner knew nothing about). It was only discovered upon tearing apart entire dash to get at WIN (annoying design). Wad of melted & cut wires and gooey elec tape...relay cut into start-signal wire among tentacles of other wires, connectors & splices...had to do picture search to learn what it might be. It likely explains the weirdness of continuity & no short to gnd from connector-connector at KeyOff & 'floating' (no signal or short) when KeyOn..not really covered in diagnostics. I've never experienced a relay failing that way...somehow changing from NO to NC w/out rewiring ...perhaps an issue with melted wire mess...which, as mentioned in first post, coincidentally happened after driving & parking in 118F Phoenix temp previous day. It was a sticky nightmare removing it all from the vehicle..soldering some harness wires back together..got expected signals from diagnostics...Van started right up & runs fine. 7 frustrating days in the Phx summer heat at a friend's driveway solving this Dealer created mess. ARG!

BIG thanks for assistance here. THIS was a head-scratcher. But glad I now know to lookout for KARR in the future.

Now, if I JUST could figure out where these 3 leftover screws go. ;-)