[GCTruckster]

Nice write up and thanks for sharing that it is the gaskets that are failing mostly. Mine is still bone dry at 80k miles, because I'm the only one that ever did oil changes on it, and I never torque the oil filter cap. But I'm thinking if it's not a bad idea to change the gaskets when I do the plugs at 100k.

 

[GCTruckster]

That'd be a good idea. I typically see cooler leaks at around 120k, so doing them every 100k with the plugs should dodge most of the failures. Probably all of them if using a metal cooler.

Going with aluminum unit is probably not a bad idea if you let shops do the oil changes, as most of them will over-torque the filter cap, just like in most cases. For i DYI-er OEM unit should be fine IMO.

 

[GCTruckster]

The oil filter cover has to be tightened down enough that the contact surfaces (filter to cap - top and filter to housing - bottom) seal against an oil bypass situation. I think 15 to 16 ft. lbs. should do it. That's what I use anyway. A little shy of 18 ft. lbs. I do get a slight twist in the filter body, that is evident on removal. That's a good indication that it is tight when in place..

The filter body can vary in length by +/- about 1/16" so some may need the full 18 ft. lbs. Some filters, like the FRAM ULTRA XG 11665, have a rotating center core to facilitate tightening and to strengthen the filter (more interior support).

I disagree.
They do not need to be torqued in order to achieve a proper seal. The seals go around a shaft, in case of the filter cap and inside a whole on the housing. Torque is needed for seals and gaskets that go against a flat surface, like in the case of the filer/cooler housing.
As long as the filer sits properly and is aligned on both ends, it will seal. Any torque you apply to the cap, goes directly against the flange, not any sealing surface.