I've got the same symptom as yours (02 DGC 100Kmi) - no play in the outer TR ends, slight radial (vertical) play/click in what appears to be the L(driver's) inner TR joint. I took it apart to inspect, and concluded the L inner TR was OK - it was the rack itself with a bit of vertical play (which shouldn't affect steering angle). No PS leaks. Van aligns and drives straight - but I won't know if I'll have any lingering tire wear issues 'till the miles add up...

I'd say wait and watch/measure those tires... (how do they look after 10kmi?)

-Jim

 

This does sound similar. Due to my inexperience, I was assuming my vertical play was the outer tie rod joint. Now that you mentioned it, I do not think that was the case. When I was testing for play, I couldn't get any vertical movement while pulling/pushing up and down at the end of the outer tie rod. I got the movement when I moved my hand away from the end approximately 3-4". (Again, ever so slight movement with a little click/vibration.)

After 10K, they look good. Original tread depth was 11/32, 10K later it is at 9/32.

FYI, van is 2005 Dodge GC, 63K miles. (I updated my profile signature with this info., but apparently it takes some time to dispaly update?)

 

Tie-rod ends fail; fact of life, happens to ALL cars. If there is truly excess play, have the part replaced. That said, you might want to get a second opinion on your van.

 

the tierods where loose on mine also. when driving, especially at higher speeds, whenever I took my foot off the acc., there was a clicking/clunking noise from the front. when I accelerated, it stopped. when the tierods where replaced, it stopped. hope this helps.

course 2 diff shops told me pretty much 2 diff things. 1 said the sway bar bushings/link where bad and the drv side outter TR was really loose, the dodge dealership where i have warranty thru said the bushings were fine but both tierods where bad..............

 

If you jack the front of a vehicle up so the front wheels are hanging free... and you grab a wheel at the "3 o'clock" and the "9 o'clock" positions to test for any play... is it just me, or won't the wheel simply turn like it's supposed to left and right manually?

I thought the test was to hold the wheel at "12 o'clock" and "6 o'clock" positions and test for any play... but apparently I'm very confused. :blink:

 

I thought the test was to hold the wheel at "12 o'clock" and "6 o'clock" positions and test for any play... but apparently I'm very confused. :blink:

That is how you look for a ball-joint problem.

 

Grab the tie rod near the end and vigorously move (attempt) to move it up and down. If any play end is bad. By the time you get play in wheel at 3 and 9 it's not loose it's a disaster waiting for a place to happen. Check the tie rod ends at EVERY oil change like I indicated. If you get the SLIGHTEST movement replace.

 

Thanks. What other stuff could / should be checked at every oil change?

 

BTW changing an outer tie rod end is not a very difficult process, and contrary to popular belief, can be done without doing an alignment. I posted how to avoid the alignment on feoa.net. So if you do need one outer tie rod end, and if you are mechanically inclined enough to change your own oil, you can probably DIY and save a couple hundred bucks.

Here's my post on feoa. http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=34283&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=22 The trick is marking the part that you are not removing and measuring to ensure that you have the same distance before and after. Good luck. (I'm doing one on the mercury this weekend.)