First tighten/adjust the p-brake cable. (or may need to replace, as it could have stretched beyond adjustment, if it's been used it's whole life.)

The chances of "wearing out" the tiny integral p-brake shoes is less likely - since they're not used to stop the van, just parking. They could however, be out of adjustment as well.

BTW, what's the vehicle mileage? (Also, I'm assuming you have rear rotor/integral p-brake drum brakes).

-Jim

 

Thanks for the info!

I'm not real familiar with the brakes. Where on the van do I find the brake cable to adjust or replace?

It has 180K. I wouldnt know what to look for but I was told that the van does have the rotor/p-brake drum combo.

Thanks again!

 

I have a 2001 T&C LX 3.3L and the parking brake will barely hold the van on an incline even if it is pressed ALL the way to the floor.

My 2002 T&C LXI 3.3L has the same problem :help_wsig

When I park, I place the transmission in neutral, then the parking brake and then to PARK to avoid having the transmission being hard to get out of gear.

I'm trying to do the same... but it's still going back a bit making it harder to get out of gear

I have a steep driveway and it's a bit of concern to me.

Yes, the same for me... I don't want to damage the transmission :Wow1:

I've asked around and some have said it was probably the parking brake pads in the drum/rotor assembly. The dealership & Goodyear service quoted me $350 parts & labor to replace these. The pads only are $130 from Chrysler.

My mechanic also told me that labor is expensive ($200) but the most expensive pads are $50. My van has 119,000 km but the parking break pads were like new, he only replaced the standard break pads and rotors.

I'm wondering if there may be a way to adjust the brake or something else. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

My mechanic cleaned and greased the parking break system and said maybe some grease is still left on. He did not want to clean it in order to protect the system from rusting. He advised me to drive once a month 100 meters with the parking brake applied and hopefully the excessive grease will melt.

The cable was checked and properly adjusted.
He also strongly advised NOT to drive (by mistake) with the parking brake applied because it will destroy the pads very fast... so maybe your van previous owner did that and your parking break pads are gone by now.

 

do you know where to look for the cable to adjust? the dealership is telling me there is not a cable on the T&C to adjust, which i find hard to believe.

 

Ok. Service manual says that the p-brake cable has a self-adjusting mechanism in the pedal assembly.

So, assuming that is doing it's job, you might have sticking rear brake shoes (not the rear brake pads) - or at least not adjusting properly. There is a supposed to be a typical star-wheel adjuster for the rear shoes (accessible from behind the wheel) to take out extra slack - but leaving enough to not drag on the drum.

However, as Miron noted, the van may have been driven with the p-brake on, and killed the shoes - or one/some of the p-brake cables are stretched out of spec.

(I aslo recall one poster's story about towing a boat, submerging the rear wheels underwater when launching/collecting the boat. The inner p-brake workings (shoes/springs) corroded into a wad of uselessness...)

Good luck! That rear disc/integral p-brake drum is fairly complex to disassemble/rebuild (especially if things are stuck/badly rusted - or you have AWD).

 

There should be strong resistance to pedal travel at much more than 2-3 clicks. If you can push the pedal to the floor, something is definitely out of adjustment, and I would place my bets on the rear brake mechanisms. Is there any resistance in the pedal, like anything is working underneath? Also, do you think the parking brake is engaging at all? Will it hold the van on a slight incline?

 

Yes, there is some resistance and it will hold the van on a very slight incline. It's at more of an incline that i have the problem. It does feel like the mechanism is working just not able to hold the van. Lately, it has become worse though. I bought a wheel chock until i get it fixed.

 

This is based on a 2000 model--

I drove around with my parking brake on too. Same sloped driveway scenario as mentioned.

Maybe someone can post plans for installing a buzzer to warn when the brake is on and the shift lever is not in park.

The brakes adjust automatically when you brake going in reverse. The assembly that causes this to happen is in the individual rear brake assemblies--it's a star wheel and screw assembly.

Anyway, some ideas...

-Buy brake cleaner
-Buy a manual
-Clean all the parts
-Use jackstands to support the back of the vehicle and use one side as a reference while you mess with the other side.
-You'll probably have to beat the brake drum with a rubber mallet or a hammer and a block of wood a few times before it will slide off
-Clean all the parts with brake cleaner before taking apart.
-As you take apart, lay pieces out in assembled order to keep track of what's what.
-Clean all the parts
-Take some time to look at the star wheel/screw assembly. When you brake going backwards, the torque from the braking action causes the brake assmbely to tighten itself through the star wheel. This will be the center of alot of your uninstall/reinstall problems. Also, if it is too loose after reassembly it will not tighten automatically. Also, I don't think you can tighten through the slot in the back with a screwdriver if it's too loose.
-Your old pads will look fine and you'll feel stupid but don't. They really are trashed from the last guy driving around with the brake on and you'll soon notice the difference.
-If they don't look fine--rivits ground down--you will probably need your drums turned or replaced.
-Once again the star wheel/screw/fork thing. I think I remember setting it for very loose brakes (screwed in) for reassembly then screwing it out (tight) until the drum was tough to fit then in (loose) a bit to install drum. Final adjustment was done by pulsing the brakes in reverse. And you'll feel them tighten with each press. If not, as previously stated, they are too loose to auto-tighten.

Hope this helped
-

 

Maybe someone can post plans for installing a buzzer to warn when the brake is on and the shift lever is not in park.

-

We should be able to do this. Are you handy with a relay?

If the Park/Neutral safety switch goes to ground when not in gear, we can tap in (and connect to one side of the relay coil) to pick up a relay. Using the normally closed (nc) contact tap into the wire at the parking brake (which goes to ground when parking brake is applied.) The other side of the nc contact goes to your -ve on the buzzer. Both the +ve side of the buzzer and the other side of the relay coil are fused (5 Amp) and connected to the ignition wire.


Before long you will be conditioned to release the parking break before taking the transmission out of park! :lalala::biggrin:


If interested it would only take a couple of days for me (or less if someone else wants to jump in) to check the schematics to qualify; "If the Park/Neutral safety switch goes to ground when not in gear". To actually prove it out would take me quite a bit longer since I am in the middle of a major home reno.

cheers, Ang.