Has anyone had any success either replacing with sealed ball joints or putting a 45 degree nipple on their existing ball joints etc?

I put 90 degree fittings on my 2001.

George

 

<<I put 90 degree fittings on my 2001.

George >>

Me, too.

If you are getting a big clump of grease on the control arm, it's leaking out - maybe under the boot, maybe through a pinhole in the boot. You could just replace the boots if you got new ones through Chrysler. I think any replacement ball joint you find will have grease fittings and not be 'sealed', but most people would think that's a good thing. Incidentally, the ball joints seem to be one of the sturdier parts of the front suspension on these vans, unlike any part that touches the sway bar!

Bill

 

Thanks! I will investigate getting new boots for the ball joints. I have to go in for an MVI in the next week or so anyway, so I'll have the mechanic check out the ball joints very thoroughly. I'll also pick up a couple 90 degree fittings. If the ball joints have any play what so ever, I'll be replacing them. From what I've been reading, the Moog are very good. Raybestos has a "service grade" and a "professional grade". I don't know if there is actually any difference in construction or materials or if you are just buying a warranty.

Yes, I am familiar with the sway bar, bushings and end links. I have replaced the bushings at least 3 times and the links once.

 

All of the ball joints are sealed with the boot, so dirt and water can't contaminate the grease inside. They should be greased every oil change anyway. If a little grease is coming out, that's okay because the old grease is being displaced with new grease. It keeps the old dirty grease flushed out with clean grease.

Ball joints should be checked for wear with the front suspension at "road attitude", not hanging off of a lift. I jack up the front and put a jack stand under the outermost stable point on the control arm, then let the van's weight back down on it. That way all the components are at the same angle as they are when driving, where most of the wear takes place. Then you can pry and look for slop in joints.

 

I was unaware of the proper technique for checking wear. Thanks for that. I will test as suggested. I plan to inspect the boots more closely. I'll more thoroughly clean away all of the grease and see if there is in fact a small hole or tear at the bottom of the boots. As I said, I pumped them fairly full last time - maybe a month or so ago and when I inspected yesterday, they were almost completely flat again. Is this normal or should the boots remain similarly full to when they were filled?

 

Keep adding grease every oil change and you should be fine. I have had a torn boot on my Driver's side forever. No water ever comes out when I add grease, so I'm good.

I use angled fittings but not 90 degree ones as they tighten up too close to the ball joint for the grease gun attachment to work. They will work in a pinch if unscrewed some.

There are right angle grease gun attachments such as these http://www.amazon.com/Thexton-418-Right-Grease-Coupler/product-reviews/B0002SR6XO but I haven't been able to find any locally. Then there's the needle type grease gun attachment @ http://www.amazon.com/Plews-05-025-Needle-Grease-Adapter/dp/B000CCIM1A

Keep them greased and they will last forever. That's quoting a local Mechanic when I mentioned a hole in my ball joint boot..

 

I grease mine once a year and only put in one pump with my grease gun. That way the boots stay sealed up instead of bursting from over filling.
Hank

 

As long as they seem full, I don't add any. I have 7 grease fittings on my Jeep and usually only add grease to a couple. Checked the ball joint boots on my 2007 SXT last oil change. They seemed full, so didn't add any grease.

 

That's the problem with mine; they seem empty and flat not long after filling them. I'll try to lift it up today and have a better look at the boots. Since we have the hoist and impact driver, I'll pop the wheels off. Maybe I'll give it one more try. I have always been careful to not overfill them - just firm. Who knows what happens when it goes to a quick lube place. I have seen globs of grease on the control arm and not anywhere near the zerk fitting. I guess when they can't get the fitting on they just decide to lube the lower part of the control arm. :jpshakehe I'm sure in other cases when the vehicle has been serviced, they've been really overfilled.

I will update as the situation progresses.

Thanks to everyone who posted.

Thanks for the links Jeepman. I hunted around a bit last night and can get the same 90 fitting you linked to at Walmart site to store. There are a couple offerings.

 

Most lube places don't likely look for grease fittings when they do an oil change. They have to be directed to them. Normally there are none on the Vans.

I have greasable sway bar links that have open boots, i.e. they never were sealed. I usually put grease in them until some old grease starts coming out. That could explain the grease on your control arm if you have greasable sway bar links.

The Driver's side ball joint on my 2002 Sport has a leak out toward the brake rotor. The seal looks like it got scraped by something. I fold a blue shop towel and work it in between the seal and the rotor and pump grease until I feel/see the seal start to move (3+/- pumps), from being filled, and then stop. I slide the shop towel back and forth as I remove it to make sure I get the old grease that was pushed out. Even though the seal may not seem firm, there is still lots of grease in there and no water gets in. The fresh grease will be around the ball, just where you want the best grease to be .... can't ask for better than that.

The needle type applicator is an option, sometimes used on cv joints, but doesn't get the new grease to the wear surface, just fills the boot. Some discussion here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1639578

 

Whoa! I didn't even know there was a grease fitting there; this, despite replacing brake calipers, etc etc. Just goes to show something-or-other......

 

There's usually a plug there (ball joint). Some replace that with a zerk (grease fitting). Aftermarket ball joints may have zerks included.

 

OK, so I picked up a couple 90 degree zerk fittings. The parts guy said they were 5/16" and said the ones he gave me were the same thread as what would be on my van. 1/2 hour ago I turned the wheels, crawled under the van with a flashlight but went mostly by feel. The fittings seem to be recessed somewhat into the bottom of the ball joint. Although I used a 1/4" drive and fairly thin-walled 5/16" socket, it wouldn't slide over the nut part of the fitting. It was dark but it seems to me the socket was too thick to fit into the hole. I am going to try to get the van into the shop, take the wheel off and have a better look. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Failing replacing the zerk fittings, I'm going to pick up a 90 adapter for the new grease gun I also bought this afternoon.

 

Use a combination or open end wrench.

Hard to say what the thread might be, could be metric. The ones on my 2007 when I bought it in 2011 were the wrong ones. Mine appear to be 3/16" (threaded part, I have a spare to look at). 5/16" for the threaded part sounds too big for sure.

Compare your fitting with what you take out to see if the threaded part looks the same. The fitting should screw in easily without forcing it. A thin washer or two will move it down from the ball joint so you can get your grease gun to fit.

For my 2007, which has tight seals (no holes/leaks), I just loosen up the fitting to get the gun connection on it. Normally neither joint requires additional grease as the boots feel full.

 

Thanks Jeepman. I'll have another look tomorrow and see if it is 3/16" and use the appropriate tool.

 

I remember that the plugs on mine had a very shallow head. You might have to do as Jeepman said and use an open end wrench or grind the end of a socket so it's flat (if that makes any sense).

I can't remember whether the fittings are metric or standard. All I remember is that I got the wrong ones first!

Bill

 

Yes, and as luck will likely have it, I'll have the wrong ones too. On an upnote, I have found a decent looking 90 degree coupler for $9.99 at Canadian Tire. I plan to pick that up today and if it works as well as I hope it does, I'll just go with that.

Thanks!

Adam

 

Got everything nicely lubed with the 90 coupler. Well, there was one fitting I couldn't get and that was the lower zerk fitting on the driver's side end link. It was about 3/4 of an inch from the drive axle. I'm thinking that this would be the application for the 90 zerk fitting. And I do believe that you are correct Jeepman. They are definitely smaller than 5/16". More than likely the 3/16" you mention.

Anyway, quite a bit of soupy black grease was forced out when I filled them. Hoping its thin consistency is not suggestive of water contamination. I did find one tiny pin hole in one of the end link boots but the boot remained firm after filling. The tie rod boots were already full looking so I left them be.

Thanks for the guidance guys. :ThumbsUp:

Adam

 

You are making progress. :thumb:. If water were in there, you would see it run out in fairly clear droplets when filling with grease.

Sounds like the Driver's side end link is upside down. The fitting should be facing away from the axle. For the sway bar end links, bottom fitting should face to the rear and the top fitting should face to the front. Having the fitting next to the axle can result in the fitting chafing against the axle.

Some discussion on that here: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/20370-Sway-Bar-End-Link-Installation-Tip

 

When installing sway bar links, have to make sure the nut is tight, tight and the stud part hasn't slipped on final tightening. The nuts have a habit of backing off. If that happens, you will get a loud clunking noise when going over small bumps. Double nutting doesn't hurt, I did that with one of mine that loosened up.

Sounds like the washer on the pan bolt is defective/leaking. Wouldn't use teflon tape in this application and there shouldn't be any need to.

 

<< From what it looks like, though, it shouldn't be a big job to flip it. >>

I had to chuckle a bit when I read this as these can be a real PITA to get off. Get out the PB Blaster.

I had the same experience. I installed one backwards. I discovered this when I noticed that the half-shaft had rubbed off most of the Zerk fitting! No harm, no foul, though, as I just turned it around and installed a new Zerk fitting.

Jeepman said: <<When installing sway bar links, have to make sure the nut is tight, tight and the stud part hasn't slipped on final tightening.>>
Couldn't have said it better. Torque those suckers up nice and tight and then tighten them some more! Just to make the job more aggravating, they are awkward to get at.

Bill

 

Had to get in to work today for an early meeting and in my haste, I forgot to transfer the tranny fluid from the Elantra into the van. Of course I discovered this after I had the van in the shop. I put it up anyway. I figured I'd flip the link tomorrow when I came back with the fluid. Almost every nut and bolt under my van relatively is easy to remove as I tend be overzealous with the Rust Check. The nuts on the end links are still wet from the last application. The mechanic that has worked on my car in the past said he both liked and hated working on my vehicles; liked because he rarely had to use heat or a lot of extra force to remove stuff, and hated it because he was always really dirty after working on it. I'm optimistic that the nuts will come off fairly easily. If not we have a variety of impact drivers and adapters. Regarding access, having the hoist and impact drivers makes it easier and quicker to get at. Fingers are crossed however.

As to the leak, it does appear to be coming out from where the bolt goes in. All I see is metal threads. I don't know if there is any nylon in there at the back or not. It was fairly tight but I gave it a good turn while holding the retaining nut with a box end wrench. Let's say that tightening doesn't do it, what would you recommend as a sealer if not teflon tape?

Thanks!

Adam

 

This is what one transmission drain plug kit looks like: http://www.amazon.com/80250-Automatic-Transmission-Universal-Drain/dp/B00029WR78

My guess is that the plug has a taper fit, hence no gasket like the oil pan drain plug has. Looks like a two wrench job to avoid turning the whole thing when tightening/loosening. There is potential to loosen up the whole assembly if that outer nut isn't held by a wrench then taking out the drain plug. The leak may not be at the plug itself, but at the pan/nylon washer interface.

This one appears to have a washer with the drain plug: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Superior-Uni...erior-Universal-Transmission-Oil-Pan-Drain-Plug-Kit-/170668737151#ht_1159wt_952

Good luck. One could check the instructions to see what they say about using teflon tape. I would't want that stuff inside the transmission.

 

Thanks Jeepman. The amazon link you included looks very similar to what I have. I believe mine is made by Derale. I would post a link to the one I bought but was told in another post by a moderator not to post links to stores of those who do not advertise on this site.

Yes, when I tightened the bolt, I made sure to hold the larger nut contacting the pan so it wouldn't turn. That would make for a lot of work if it became loose for sure. I wish I had asked the installer at the transmission shop to at least tack it to the pan in a couple spots with the welder. I suspect that the pan metal is thin but I've heard of people welding these into place.

 

Welding is a common option. The metal is okay for that.

 

Maybe when I get the pan off next time, I'll take it in and have it welded.

If you don't mind my asking Jeepman, what part of NS are you from? I have buddies in Bridgewater, Truro, the Middleton area and Antigonish.

 

Halifax Regional Municipality (HRM)

 

I drained off 3 quarts of ATF. The drain was mounted high on the pan. I had hoped to drain a bit more but since the transmission was recently serviced, I think 3 is more than good for now. I'll drain and replace 3 quarts every second or third oil change. I'm using the Chrysler approved SuperTech ATF+4 so it's inexpensive at around $4.00/qt. I used a little bit of blue rtv sealant - similar to what the transmission shop used for the pan - on the threads and snugged up the bolt. After a 45 minute drive and good rest in the driveway, no drips so far.

 

Love Halifax! I took quite a few road trips there in my college days. We were there over this past March Break for a couple days and stayed at the Delta Halifax - my wife works for Delta. Took the kids to Hatfield Farms - I highly recommend this to anyone who is visiting the area and has young kids. The time before that, I visited CYHZ and got a great tour of the Canjet Hangar. For several years I developed add-on sceneries for Microsoft Flight Simulator. I'm back in school in July but we hope to visit again this summer.

 

Well, whddyaknow! there were indeed grease fittings on the ball joints. I see big-ish plugs on the tie rod ends, about 7/16 dia, I can see grease fittings there in my future.