[gregs238]

looks like there is some tranny oil comming out of the solenoid pack, and maybe a part of a black gasket, and we did just have a freeze here below the 30's for a night or 2

 

[lonestarht]

Thank you very much Sheldon! I followed your instruction, replaced gasket today.

I followed your instruction, replaced gasket today.

I’d had a slow leak from the transmission for several months. Not big enough to worry about, but enough to cause a grimace every time I saw the spots.
I finally decided to go ahead and change the tranny fluid and use the nifty Chrysler “reusable” metal and rubber pan gasket I had bought to stop the leak. I hate the RTV pan-to- tranny solution because of the extra work and uncertainty of using goo instead of a real gasket.
Unfortunately, the leak persisted, so I dropped the pan a second time the following weekend and sealed it with the RTV.
Again, the leak persisted so I went after the Solenoid Pack area. I placed a bit of paper towel under the transmission fluid hoses and saw no pink on the towel after a week… but the spots continued to show up under the van, with wet fluid dripping off the back side of the pan onto the floor.
I replaced the gasket under the Solenoid Pack, but the leak continued dripping.
Then, a few days ago when the weather turned cold, the spots turned to little puddles.
I broke down and bought a Solenoid Pack from the Dealer, replaced it and the new gasket that came with it, and the leak stopped.
What I discovered was that removing the Solenoid Pack the second time was a breeze because I knew what to do. I took pix for the forum so that it might be easier for your first time.

1. Clean the area with degreaser from a spray can and rinse well…. three times. DO NOT jack up the van. Tranny fluid is level with the top of the mounting face of the Solenoid Pack. If you don’t imbalance the level of the van by jacking it up you will lose almost no fluid.
2. Work on a cool tranny. A hot engine bay will get you burned.
3. Open Solenoid Pack box and make sure you have the correct gasket. READ the instructions! Four times. (See pix 1 for bolt descriptions)
4. Put heavy tape along the heat shield seam. The edge will cut you if you don’t. (pix 2)
5. From top of engine bay, look down and identify the bolt #1 and the 8mm bolt on top of the connector locations. (pix 3)
6. Locate bolt #3 It’s hidden below the heat shield, under the transmission dip stick tube. (see pix 4)
7. REMOVE the speed sensor. Unclip the sensor connector, then use a 1” socket to remove the sensor. ( pix 5) Now you san see bolt #2)
8. Loosen the 8mm bolt on the Solenoid Pack connector (pix 3), lift off the connector and place it out of the way.
9. REMOVE the bolts. #1 and #2 are easy. #3 is removed with a short extension and short ratchet. “Short” because you will be working under the dipstick tube. (pix 7)
10. With the bolts removed, lift up the Solenoid Pack assembly, slide it towards the front of the van, turn upright and remove it through the space between the tranny and the bumper lip. (pix 8)
11. CLEAN the area where the new Solenoid Pack will go. CAREFULLY.
12. Place gasket on Solenoid Pack bottom. Three dowels will hold the gasket in place while you are replacing the Solenoid Pack. (pix 9) Your old Solenoid Pack may have only had 2 dowels, but the third dowel fits in place just fine.
13. Replace in reverse order. You will notice a “rocking” of the new Solenoid Pack on the edge of the tranny. It feels like you aren’t in the dowel holes, but that’s normal and will settle in place once you properly locate and snug down the bolts.
14. Torque 10mm bolts to 106 inch pounds ( 8.5 ft. pounds) on bolts #1 and #2. The #3 bolt was done after calibrating the Mark One Multi-digital Grip Extension (my hand) to how much resistance 8.5 ft pounds felt like on the first two bolts.
15. The 8mm connector cover bolt is just “tightened”.
16. NO computer “training” is necessary. Just drive the van normally and it will learn on it’s own so fast you won’t know it happened.
17. Celebrate with appropriate beverage and over-salted, high fat content, comfort food product. :beerchug:

 

[sheldon!]

Thank you for the "thank you"!

Coming up on 20,000 views! Must be a whole lotta' solenoid fever out there. (However, I do think it might need more cowbell next time.) :biggrin:

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/719364/

 

[txgbe270]

THANK YOU!

Wife's '01 Grand Caravan 3.3 suddenly went rough running and "breaking on it's own randomly". she brought it to the shop before i checked it out, and we ended up with a $500 "tune-up" which has resulted in apparently no change to operation. (remember that i didn't get to it before the work) it had transmission codes the shop didn't know what they were. I pulled them and found P0700 (generic tranny error code) and P0755 (solenoid pack B)

Tranny shop said it could be the Pack, it could be the TCM or it could be the wire harness. other web research has suggested a speed sensor. (Any thoughts on this one since they are only $20 and would make me so much happier)

After finally finding this forum and this thread, i am now making plans to take on replacing the pack this weekend, instead of making plans to send the car to the shop.

I will post the results ... thanks yet again.

 

[sheldon!]

she brought it to the shop before i checked it out, and we ended up with a $500 "tune-up"

GREAT CAESAR's GHOST, MAN! :Wow1:

$500 for a "tune up"?

Solid platinum spark plugs with diamond tips?
New gold braided spark plug wires?
Caviar based oil instead of petroleum dino-squeezin's?
Human kidney instead of an oil filter?
Sacrifice of three virgins to the god Transmissus? (well, OK, virgins do cost a bit more nowdays so $500 may have been a bargain)

Hope to hear you had good luck with the replacement of the sol pack! :headbange

 

[txgbe270]

Ok, So here's My .02

First off, yes Sheldon, They did use the platinum lined diamond tipped spark plugs. As well as 12 gauge solid gold plug wires. I also was nearly floored at the price tag on a "tune up". also from what it appears to me, they didn't even change the oil filter. so i am really peeved.

anyhow, I picked up the solenoid pack from auto zone Saturday. Saturday evening i popped off the wire harnesses, and decided to also remove the transmission coolant lines. they appeared to be in the way, and since it actually took 27 seconds, i figured what the heck. on these items, i spent all of 15 minutes.

This morning (Sunday) i took on the bulk of the task. I was able to remove the bolts without much issue, however i would like to suggest the use of an articulating adapter for bolt 3. I would also like to say that bolts one and two are very easily removed and installed with a VERY long extension on the ratchet. I had to put two 9" extensions together and it worked well since i was above most of the engine.

now, i can not stress enough that you really really need to make sure that you spend enough time cleaning the area around the pack. especially focusing behind the pack. i cleaned it a couple of times before i started, but i should have repeated after i had removed the speed sensor because i then had better access behind the pack. what i found was that once i removed the old pack, there was a lot of "stuff" packed and jammed in there that i needed to vacuum out. if it had been done before hand, i wouldn't have tranny fluid in my shop vac. I also would not be worried that i may have contaminated the fluid. ( i will have to settle my mind next week, and do a fluid drain and fill).

when i removed the old pack, i found i couldn't get it to pop out, so it took a couple of gentle "persuasions" with a small hammer, and it broke free without issue. (and i do mean gentle) once it was free, I decided that down would be easier than up, and just let it go into my waiting catch pan.

about 80% of the old gasket came out without issue, but then i found that the next 10% took some effort, but still wan't much of an issue. the final 105 wouldn't move. i worked on it for about 15 - 20 minutes using nothing more than my finger nails, but I couldn't make it release. well, i finally broke down and went to the razer blade. held nearly flat, it slid under the old gasket and i had that last pesky 10% out in just moments. for removing the gasket, i suggest patience, and a slow slow hand.

The new unit went in from the top, and the mounting was without any real issues, and actually took less than 20 min. Cleaned up, took it for a twirl around the block and.... shift shift shift.

all together it took a little over 2 hours. My catch pan contains what i estimate to be less than 1/2 quart of fluid. i suspect if the gasket hadn't been such a pain, it would have been nearly negligible.

Tools required were only 8mm, 10mm, 1" sockets; 2 - 9" extensions, 2" extension; slip joint pliers; short flat screwdriver; catch pan; and one razer blade. (One celebratory Frosty Beverage)

 

[sheldon!]

:thumb:

Way ta' go, Guy!

I hate it when a service department sees a female with a credit card as "fair game".
My daughter took her Honda to her dealer and they quoted over $2,000 worth of things were needed. (But, the free oil change that got her into the shop wasn't included in that number.)
As I read their list I saw I had already replaced many of the parts (e.g. A/C belt) only a month before. They must have a standard list in the computer and customize it with the customer's name without doing any actual checking at all. :jpshakehe

Thanks for the write up and feedback on just how easy it is to save a wad of cash.

 

[GrandCaravan]

my van i bought at 110k, changes T/M fluid around 130k now nearing 150k, at cold, it sometimes doesnt want to shift into drive...(feels like neutral) and at take off, it shudders.

#1 sounds like a solenoid pack
#2 sounds like a torque converter


Any ideas?

tIA

 

[Jeepman]

:thumb:

Way ta' go, Guy!

I hate it when a service department sees a female with a credit card as "fair game".
My daughter took her Honda to her dealer and they quoted over $2,000 worth of things were needed. (But, the free oil change that got her into the shop wasn't included in that number.)
As I read their list I saw I had already replaced many of the parts (e.g. A/C belt) only a month before. They must have a standard list in the computer and customize it with the customer's name without doing any actual checking at all. :jpshakehe

Thanks for the write up and feedback on just how easy it is to save a wad of cash.

Honda has 5 maintenance schedules plus that they routinely follow based on mileage/time. Type A Schedule is change engine oil and filter, Type E Schedule is a biggie. The Honda Dealers like doing brake work it seems, every other service.
From this site for a 2004 Civic SE: http://www.mississaugahonda.com/en/...y?presetmakeid=&make=Honda&model=Civic&year=2004&lcarids=1042300203|SE#dropmenu

Type E
Replace engine oil* and filter
Service front and rear brakes
Rotate tires**, inspect for wear and adjust pressure
Lubricate all hinges, locks and latches with multipurpose grease
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots
Inspect suspension components
Inspect driveshaft boots
Inspect parking brake adjustments
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids, and check for leaks
Inspect cooling system hoses and connections
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect fuel lines and connections
Check all lights
Inspect the underbody
Inspect and adjust drive belts
Replace dust and pollen filter
Replace air cleaner element

Specific Additional Required Maintenance
120 months/192,000 km then every 60 months/96,000 km: Replace coolant
96,000 km and 48,000 km thereafter: Replace automatic transmission fluid
Every 96,000 km: Replace manual transmission fluid
Every 36 months: Replace brake fluid
84 months/176,000 km: Replace spark plugs
Every 96,000 km: Inspect spark plugs, lubricate threads and replace if necessary
84 months/176,000 km: Replace timing belt and inspect water pump
100,000 km: Replace timing belt and inspect water pump if regularly driven in very low temperatures (-29C, -20F)
84 months/176,000 km: Inspect idle speed
84 months/176,000 km: Inspect valve clearance, adjust if noisy

 

[Jeepman]

my van i bought at 110k, changes T/M fluid around 130k now nearing 150k, at cold, it sometimes doesnt want to shift into drive...(feels like neutral) and at take off, it shudders.

#1 sounds like a solenoid pack
#2 sounds like a torque converter


Any ideas?

tIA

Is transmission fluid overfilled or too low. Check per Owner Manual after 15 minutes of actual driving.

Did you do a fluid filter change or get it flushed without a filter change?

 

[GrandCaravan]

Is transmission fluid overfilled or too low. Check per Owner Manual after 15 minutes of actual driving.

Did you do a fluid filter change or get it flushed without a filter change?

had a mechanic change filter and do drain/fill

Seemed lil overfilled when i checked it last week but figured it was okay

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[GrandCaravan]

i siphoned most of the excess out..tried to drive and DOH! took too much out so i added back 1qt that i put away in oil bottle now its all good! no need for solenoid

I may just do a siphon/fill in the near future though

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[deuced]

This was awesome! Additionally I checked mine before removal and it did absolutely nothing on the ohm meter!

I used the same test to check the one's at the junk yard. swapped them out and now I am shifting smoothly.

This post was VERY helpful in finding the transmission solenoid. Thanks again for the detailed share!

Love the trek reference too lol

 

[moparlover]

Can you tell me where i can buy a reuseable pan gasket/ and do they seal the pan well? do you know how much these sell for thanks for any info John

 

[2therock]

Nice! I had what I believed to be a pan leak that turned out to be the S-pack. It just wets the pan but I know its there so.....:arcadefre

I keep reading some folks asking about doing just the gasket. My parts counter man and service rep, and some master mechanics on other forums will tell you these things are prone to hair line cracks. So gamble if you have to.

On mine it's leaking on both sides of the plate and front cover at the bottom, see the pic below. The pic was taken 3 minutes after firing it up after a thorough cleaning so I could find exactly what was up. I tightened those torx screws and it stopped for a couple weeks. :jpshakehe
Rock auto has em for a C-Note (For a 2002 GCS). The top one in the list says its an improved series. I think they all are. If you are on the OE its a matter of time or luck.

 

[Jeepman]

Nice! I had what I believed to be a pan leak that turned out to be the S-pack. It just wets the pan but I know its there so.....:arcadefre

I keep reading some folks asking about doing just the gasket. My parts counter man and service rep, and some master mechanics on other forums will tell you these things are prone to hair line cracks. So gamble if you have to.

On mine it's leaking on both sides of the plate and front cover at the bottom, see the pic below. The pic was taken 3 minutes after firing it up after a thorough cleaning so I could find exactly what was up. I tightened those torx screws and it stopped for a couple weeks. :jpshakehe
Rock auto has em for a C-Note (For a 2002 GCS). The top one in the list says its an improved series. I think they all are. If you are on the OE its a matter of time or luck.

Those torx screws may be the covers for the adjustment ports. The solenoid pack fastens to the transmission ledge with three vertical bolts. The gasket is horizontal.

 

[2therock]

Those torx screws may be the covers for the adjustment ports. The solenoid pack fastens to the transmission ledge with three vertical bolts. The gasket is horizontal.

No, its the pack.

 

[Jeepman]

No, its the pack.

They were great pictures. I see the screws you were talking about.

The solenoid packs are known for leaking, due to corrosion they say. The one on my 2002 GC use to leak in the winter and stop leaking in the summer. I had it replaced in January 2011 for $200, which included installation.

 

[bleu50]

I changed out a pack this past sunday using the instructions/photographs in this thread.
All I can say is....THANKYOU!
IT works great now, before it was stuck in limp mode.

THanks again!

 

[Jeepman]

I changed out a pack this past sunday using the instructions/photographs in this thread.
All I can say is....THANKYOU!
IT works great now, before it was stuck in limp mode.

THanks again!

This Thread has helped many DIYers. Considering that for every member viewing this Forum, there are 20 Guests (non-members), based on present (this morning's) data, a Thread like this is helping 100s, maybe 1000s, replace their solenoid packs. :thumb: