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Congrats,
yes those metal shims have a tendency to slip off and fall somewhere when you're not paying attention.
Glad you got it figured out and didn't have to pull the trans again.
 
Discussion starter · #82 ·
Congrats,
yes those metal shims have a tendency to slip off and fall somewhere when you're not paying attention.
Glad you got it figured out and didn't have to pull the trans again.
Quick update on the power issue. The battery test at 12.5V off, but still wouldn't start van unless jumped. Tested the alternator and it was putting out around 14.1V w/o any accessories running. So everything seemed ok. Put a load on the alternator and with in a few seconds, she shuts off and I couldn't get to my multi-meter fast enough to see if the volts dropped down. (I'm sure it did.) Since I knew the battery needed to be tested, I took it to AutoZone and they said it tested "Good". This didn't make since to me since I had to jump the battery to start our van and it wouldn't hold a charge. So I went with my gut feeling and bought a brand new battery. Van started right up and when I put a load on the alternator, no flickering lights and engine kept running strong. I have to retest the alternator again, but going to change anyway since its over 7 yrs old and I already bought a new one.
 
Yeah, sounds like a bad battery. Good call; as soon as I get 3 intermittent dead battery episodes, I replace it.

For what it's worth, the Denso alternators that were factory installed on these vans are very well built and should last around 200k miles before anything major fails on them. I was real good friends with a local electrical rebuilder and asked him to inspect the one on my '99 at 200k. He said one of the diodes was on its way out but everything else was serviceable on it.
 
Discussion starter · #84 ·
Yeah, sounds like a bad battery. Good call; as soon as I get 3 intermittent dead battery episodes, I replace it.

For what it's worth, the Denso alternators that were factory installed on these vans are very well built and should last around 200k miles before anything major fails on them. I was real good friends with a local electrical rebuilder and asked him to inspect the one on my '99 at 200k. He said one of the diodes was on its way out but everything else was serviceable on it.
I've had battery problems before with other vehicles, but nothing like this. A bad battery can be easily over looked, if you don't know what to look for or even how a specific vehicle behaves with a low or dead battery. Through testing of the electric system helps too.
 
feel free to change the alt, but as others said these vans do not stand a weak or bad battery.
The PCM is supposed to work down to 9 or 10 VDC but based on what i've seen on these vans it wouldn't surprise me if it died from a power surge if battery can't handle it. (I won't lecture you on internal battery resistance and such :) but you can look it up if curiosity sets in)
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
I changed the alternator over the weekend and all is well. I remember back in 2004 we went in for a routine oil change and the battery just died and wouldn't even hold a charge. No early warning signs or anything. I have a multimeter and soon going to buy a battery load tester. We are driving to Florida in the fall, so don't need any surprises.
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
So its been about a week and all is running well. (No issues at all) As a matter of fact, the trans. response, when accelerating, is much faster, w/o any hesitation. (There was a little before) There was a little humming noise I noticed before the repair and that's gone too. (I'm guessing it was the TCC) It took me 33 1/2 hrs over 13 days, from start to finish. (This doesn't include the changing of the battery, alternator and trouble shooting the noise at the end of the TCC repair)

Here is a brake down again of what I replaced:

1) TCC - $270 (OEM part)
2) Left/Right outer tire rod - $75 (AutoZone)
3) Trans. input shaft seal - $20 (OEM part)
4) Driver and Passenger drive axle seal - $30 (OEM part)
5) Starter - $160 - (AutoZone)
6) Battery - $160 - (OEM part)
7) Wheel Alignment - $89 (Sears)
8) ATF+4 (9 qts.) - $63 (AutoZone)
9) Trans. crankshaft position sensor - $20 (AutoZone)
10) Trans. Input Speed Sensor - $18 (AutoZone)
11) Rear main engine seal - $15 - (Napa)
12) Trans. pan w/drain bolt - $41 - (Napa)
13) Trans. filter and gasket - $12 - (Napa)

Total: $973 in parts.
 
Saved yourself a ton of money! Would have been at least three times that amount for all the parts you've replaced. Transmission replaced at dealership was $3,800.00 just three years ago - hate to guess at the price today.....
 
Discussion starter · #90 ·
Saved yourself a ton of money! Would have been at least three times that amount for all the parts you've replaced. Transmission replaced at dealership was $3,800.00 just three years ago - hate to guess at the price today.....
They quoted us $3800+ for a reman. trans. and $1900 to replace the TCC, rear main seal and trans. pump. The only things I wasn't expecting to have issues with was the battery and alternator. The OEM starter was still good, but since I already replaced it, I decided to just stick with the new one.
 
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Discussion starter · #91 ·
Everything is running good after 4K driven. (Its been really hot up here) Question, I was going to just do a fluid change, but not sure when I should. Around 9 qts. of fluid drained out when I changed the TCC, just by the trans sitting on the jack. What do you guys advise?

Thanks.
 
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If you don't have any problems and replaced nine quarts during the job, you're probably good for 60Kmi (as per Chrysler Severe Duty schedule).
If you want to see the pan again for a trans health check up, 3-7Kmi should be a good indicator.
If the old fluid was "out of spec" (burned, contaminated, etc) than you can extract the 3-4 qts and refill a couple of times over the next several hundred miles.

Under normal circumstances there's no need for further fluid swap...
 
Discussion starter · #93 ·
If you don't have any problems and replaced nine quarts during the job, you're probably good for 60Kmi (as per Chrysler Severe Duty schedule).
If you want to see the pan again for a trans health check up, 3-7Kmi should be a good indicator.
If the old fluid was "out of spec" (burned, contaminated, etc) than you can extract the 3-4 qts and refill a couple of times over the next several hundred miles.

Under normal circumstances there's no need for further fluid swap...
Old fluid was in good shape. So, I'm in good shape then. Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #94 ·
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Well done.
I attempted a similar job on my last DD. '99 Taurus SHO. It had a fluid leak that was traced to the output shaft seal. When the trans got hot it would leak onto the exhaust and put out a ridiculous smoke screen (and smell).
After ~40hrs of work I got it done. Then, after about 50 miles the seal blew out along with all the fluid.
So I ended up spending the $1200 to have it done anyway.
I felt SOOO great paying that bill.

:angry:
 
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