[Splain]

Make sure fuel pump is disabled YOU DO NOT WANT IT TO START! then pull a injector connector insert the noid light and check for injector pulse "AGAIN MAKE SURE NOTHING FALLS IN THE INTAKE AND FUEL PUMP IS DISABLED":ThumbsUp:

 

[slcsoundguy]

Throw this your way...

Greetings and I hope this helps. This sounds like something very similar we had with the Mitsubishi 3.0 engine Mitsubishi diesel‘s and other 3.3 engines. Check and replace your oil pressure switch. Corrosion in and on the switch can cause this exact problem. It’s built into the system if there’s no oil pressure it will shut the engine off. I had this problem happened to me on a couple of engines. With everything else you’ve done it’s worth taking the chance. I hope this helps and cures the problem.

 

[Ac3]

** Update **

I checked the wires to the fuel injections. I used the noids to check the connectors and there is signal going to the injectors. That is good.
should I change the fuel rails? There is fuel pressure. I do not know why it will not start?

I took off the intake manifold. I got the new gasket but it also came with a "V" shape gasket that I do not know where it goes.

https://www.enginepartsonly.com/199...et-set-ig1135-53/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpsK-16qn3gIVEp7ACh32kgPnEAQYASABEgI27PD_BwE

There is the link to a similar set I got.

** QUESTION **
Wouldn't the computer shoot a code. if it was an oil pressure switch? Just wondering? There is no code shooting for that. Thank you for that information!!!! It doesn't hurt to try but I am scared that I will cause more problem if I keep changing parts. Thank you!!


Any information helps. Thank you everyone for the information!!!!

 

[Splain]

The V-shaped gasket is for the lower intake manifold, I think you just removed the plenum the upper intake. Have you checked for spark? There several things that could cause no spark but with no codes, I would suspect the coil see if you have spark at the plugs if no check at the coil if no spark we can go from there.:thumb:

 

[Splain]

AND no the oil pressure switch (sender) does not work that way on Chrysler

 

[Road Ripper]

There is fuel pressure, but is it ENOUGH fuel pressure? Spec is 54 psi. Probably won't run at like 35 or 40 psi, but will at 50. Again, water in the fuel? If you had a mostly empty tank during some temperature fluctuations, condensation will form inside the tank and run to the bottom (water). Add some alcohol to the gas to absorb the water and make it burn. Had that happen on my 3rd gen once, and right now it also has 225,000 miles and still runs well. I wish the body would last longer though.

Fuel filter - the one on TOP of the tank on the outside - did you replace it? It is supposed to be replaced every time a fuel pump is replaced, to be covered under warranty. You might be able to blow through it, but it could still be sufficiently plugged that the VOLUME of gas cannot get through it, but enough gets through to get a pressure reading.

Finally, there is a flex plate problem with these vans. It cracks around the bolt holes holding it to the crankshaft. It throws the timing of the sensors off just enough to not run the engine, and sometimes will show no codes. Victims of this problem have also described a backfire, then the engine stops and won't restart. Sometimes the engine DOES restart and drives fine for a few days, then it happens again and strands them. The fix involves removing the transmission to replace the flex plate, and reset the position of the crank sensor when reassembled.

 

[Special Edy]

The startup procedure is that the ECU checks the crankshaft position sensor first, then the camshaft position sensor.
If the flexplate was damaged, the fuel injector would fail the noid light test.
It sounds like it's either fuel pressure or the coil pack.


First test for cranking but not starting is to spray starting fluid into the throttle body and see if the engine starts. If it runs for a few seconds on starting fluid, you have no fuel. If it still doesn't start, the ignition system is at fault.

 

[Ac3]

** Update **

Thank you everyone for the information. I am grateful for you knowledge!!!!

I test to see if each fuel injector was getting a signal. Yes, all injector connectors are shooting a signals so each injector should work. I did something that is not a good practice but I did it anyway. Yes I know it is incorrect.
I disconnected the injectors from the engine and left them connected to the fuel rail. I turn the engine to see if the injectors would spray fuel. None of the injectors sprayed fuel. That is the reason why the engine is not cranking for a lack of fuel. What could be the cause of this? I would understand one injector but all six to not spray fuel?! All bad injectors? The engine still need a good cleaning. Is there a way to clean injectors once taking out? Should I get another fuel filter? Change the fuel pump? again! Change the fuel rail? Change all injectors? I feel that I am getting close. Could it be a solder problem behind the cluster gauge?
What are my option now? What should I check or am I over looking something. I do not want to give up!! this van has been good to me!!!

The car does start when I use starter fluid. The fuel filter is new and I did a blow test to see if there is any clogs and nothing. Air passes through fairly easy.

Thank you again everyone!

 

[Ac3]

****! i hope it is not that!

 

[Ac3]

****! i hope it is not that!

I hope it is not the flex plate!
Could it be a clogged return line?

 

[Ac3]

The startup procedure is that the ECU checks the crankshaft position sensor first, then the camshaft position sensor.
If the flexplate was damaged, the fuel injector would fail the noid light test.
It sounds like it's either fuel pressure or the coil pack.


First test for cranking but not starting is to spray starting fluid into the throttle body and see if the engine starts. If it runs for a few seconds on starting fluid, you have no fuel. If it still doesn't start, the ignition system is at fault.

Thank you for the information!
The injector wires showed they are getting power according to the noid lights. I take it they pass. It is just weird to me that none of the injectors fired/sprayed fuel.

 

[Special Edy]

Likely it is low fuel pressure then

IIRC it's supposed to be 54psi, somebody once posted they were getting mid 40's and their van wouldn't run.

There may be a loaner fuel pressure gauge at your local auto parts store.

 

[Ac3]

There is no fuel pressure on the fuel rail. I can hear the fuel pump but there is no fuel! So I believe it is the fuel pump! This is my third one! I should just go to dodge and get an original one and hope that is the issue.

 

[Ac3]

I did something pretty stupid. I disconnected the fuel filter line that is connect to the metal line that leads to the fuel rail. I had someone turn the key till the fuel pump was activated. No fuel came out of that line what so ever. I take it that the fuel pump is faulty. Should I change the fuel filter along with the fuel pump even though the fuel filter is fairly new? I will be getting a fuel pump from dodge and a fuel filter if needed. Let me know what you think. Thank you for all the information!!! Have a wonderful thanksgiving!

 

[Ac3]

** update **

I check the connector that connects to the fuel pump with a volt meter. I do not know if i tested it correctly with the voltmeter but it showed 11.26v on the meter. I read it suppose to be 12v, would that effect it or not being so close to 12volts?

 

[Ac3]

** update**

I got a new fuel pump but before I installed it, I tested it to make sure everything was good. The pump checked out fine! I was pretty excited that this pump seem to work. I put in the new pump and tighten everything. I added more gas for it was fairly low. I turn the key and nothing! My pride was hurt! A buddy of my let me use a snap-on scanner with all the bells and whistle! There i was able to activate the pump without having the engine run. I ran the pump with a fuel gauge connected to the fuel rail. At the time there was no pressure. As the scanner activate the pump to work. Pressure started to build and finally reached the correct psi! I guess since I released all the pressure from the system it had build again. I guess the turn of the key was not enough. The scanner was able to have the pump run long enough to create pressure. I also find it odd that I had to cycle the pump to create fuel pressure. The pump should have did that on its own without the help of the scanner! Here comes the good news!!!!!

The car finally cranked/start and ran for 10 mins. I drove it around the block and it ran fine!!! I parked the car and let it idle to double check to see if there were any leaks. Good news! no leaks! no crazy smokes. It feels strong!

Here comes the fun part:
While letting it idle, it started struggled to idle. Rpm dropped increased dropped it was fighting to stay on! I turn off the G.C (Grand Caravan) let it sit for a min or two and turn the key again. It started right up with no problem.

There was no check engine light stating there was a problem. I let the car sit overnight and started back in the morning. It started right up with no problem! drove it around and everything felt fine. I parked the car again and let it idle. It did it again, rpm dropped and increase fighting to stay on then ultimately shutting off. I let it sit for 1-2 mins , turn the key and start right up. Again no check engine light and i did the 3 turns of the key to see if it would show a code and nothing.

Any ideas of what it could be?

I am planning to get a longer hose to connect it to the fuel rail and drive it around to see what the fuel pressures showing while driving and idling. Thank you again for any information you may have. Have a great day.