[Sienile]

For stiffer than stock, upgrade to the R/T trim struts and rear springs.

 

[Mopar John]

The question:
Which strut assembly is best, OEM or Aftermarket?

The answer:
OEM

For aftermarket, KYB seems favored, Monroe not so much, Gabriel is silent, Sachs is silent, FCS is somewhat silent. We could be missing something. How much technical data is available to feed into the decision making process? The more technical data a Manufacturer makes available, the less they have to hide. You can compare tube sizes quite easily.

Note that today, on rockauto.com, KYB has two selections for bare bones struts (not an assembly), for my 2016, apparently trying to fine tune to duplicate OE.
KYB 339344 for R/T model, KYB 339246 for the rest.
So do Monroe, FCS and Mopar have two selections.
Gabriel and Sachs don't have an R/T model on rockauto.com

On rockauto.com "FCS 331821" is one of their most popular parts. Go figure.

More Information for FCS 331821

There are differences. What are the differences (technically) and do they matter (to you)?

Thank you for your input. I had tried FCS full assembly struts a year ago on my old 2005 T&C, they were stable when new the 1st five months. Then the ride lost its stable firm ride. I was told those FCS brand are sometimes used when a person is about to sell their car, but have failing struts. I want Nothing to do with Monroe, Gabriel might be better now, Sachs Novimats for rears. But KYB I've known about since the 90's, to be excellent product.

 

[Mopar John]

I'd have to find where I put the paperwork to be certain, which is unlikely to happen. It was 8 years ago. I think the model number was BSR4176, which would make the matched passenger side BSR4175. I got it from Autozone, but other places have struts that don't have the B in the model number - which may be identical.

I looked those two numbers up, they're $200 a pc. Guess they must be the real McCoy..

 

[Mopar John]

Scotty says it all. Keep your expectations low as to spring rates, height and longevity when using quick struts. You get what you pay for.

OE struts normally last a lot longer than 67,000 miles. Expect 100,000 to 200,000 at least. They may not be your problem

Thanks.. I don't really have a problem, its just I'm beginning to hear a sorta springy sound when van is recovering from a bounce going over a bump, and that usually can mean the strut-shock part may not be dampening as it should. Don't get me wrong, the van at 67k had an excellent ride, except for that sound.

 

[Sienile]

... Sachs Novimats for rears. ...

If you have those then you probably have the performance suspension. The KYBs I've seen are all for the standard suspension, which is softer. Compare the look of your springs to the pictures of the struts.

 

[Stingray230SX]

wow, all the hate for Monroe? I have a beater winter ride/hauler 3rd gen 3.3 with a 38k mile reman with excellent mechanicals and fiberglassed rockers.....I think I need the front strut assemblies and the big four are 170$/277$ EACH for the Monroe, while Rock Auto has them private label [same Monroe part number] for 67$ each...I mean for a van that runs excellent but is 22 years old I dont think I could beat that price.

 

[milanz0102]

wow, all the hate for Monroe? I have a beater winter ride/hauler 3rd gen 3.3 with a 38k mile reman with excellent mechanicals and fiberglassed rockers.....I think I need the front strut assemblies and the big four are 170$/277$ EACH for the Monroe, while Rock Auto has them private label [same Monroe part number] for 67$ each...I mean for a van that runs excellent but is 22 years old I dont think I could beat that price.

I couldn't find a strut assembly with a mono tube strut so I bought kyb mono tube struts and new strut mount bearings and reused everything else. Excellent results with excellent damping. Unfortunately I couldn't find any rear mono tube shocks so I installed the kyb twin tube design. Still good damping.

 

[Jeepman]

wow, all the hate for Monroe? I have a beater winter ride/hauler 3rd gen 3.3 with a 38k mile reman with excellent mechanicals and fiberglassed rockers.....I think I need the front strut assemblies and the big four are 170$/277$ EACH for the Monroe, while Rock Auto has them private label [same Monroe part number] for 67$ each...I mean for a van that runs excellent but is 22 years old I dont think I could beat that price.

Using the same number is a matter of convenience and ..... deception. It doesn't mean they are the same product. Many filters use FRAM numbers because FRAM seems to represent the industry. They aren't FRAM filters, far from it. That happens with a lot of products.

Example:
EPAuto CP743 (CF10743) Replacement for Chrysler/Dodge/Infiniti/Nissan/Volkswagen Premium Cabin Air Filter includes Activated Carbon

CF10743 is a FRAM # but that epauto filter doesn't have baking soda.

 

[KOG]

I used to use afermarket, but on my 09 with 185K the OEM are still fine. In fact they're better than new because they were too stiff for about 30-40,000 miles when new.

 

[YotoWerks]

My van was hit and the body shop replaced the knucle and strut on the passenger side with some aftermarket piece of CRAP, probably FCS, it was rusted and leaking and the van was rebuilt just a few thousand miles before I bought it, I suspect they got the parts from a scap yard. Driver side was OEM MOpar.

The front end was so so loose that every time you hit the brakes it felt like the bumper will scrape the ground and there was no steering confidence at all.

Having read some magazines about how Dodge vehicles and "S" town countries got stiffer suspension by about 15-20% so I decided to get the R/T Monroe quick struts from RockAuto. I think I paid `125 each.

Quality was top notch and installation was easy however I wish they didn't have the adjuster slot, had to spend 100$ on alignment after that.

Things I like. The van raised up about 1" at the front end and looks very level now whereas before the front end sat lower than the rear end.

Stiffness is almost too much but I went from blown struts to stiffer RT ones so its to be expected. Stepping on the brakes yields almost no nose dive which I like and the van has a very confident steering feel.

If I had to go that route again I think I would go with the standard touring struts which I think have thinner springs and 6 coils while the RT ones have thicker springs and only 5 coils. The added stiffness sort opens the door for a lot of road feel in the front end which my wife does not like.


As for pricing the bits and pieces to replace just the strut, the cost was way up there so the quick strut made a lot of sense for me.


The prior gap was same as the space at 9 o clock about 1" less.

 

[milanz0102]

I used to use afermarket, but on my 09 with 185K the OEM are still fine. In fact they're better than new because they were too stiff for about 30-40,000 miles when new.

My OEM felt fine at 230,000km but when I changed out to kyb it was night and day difference. Much less rollover when cornering. The old struts would stay compressed when taken off the vehicle and wouldn't expand without pulling them.

 

[andyharbison]

I've got a 2008 Grand Caravan. with 258,000 Miles on it now. I did front struts a year ago, and absolutely zero problems with the Monroe Quick Struts. P/N 181128L/R. Easy job, took all of about 2 hours to do both sides.

 

[Mopar John]

wow, all the hate for Monroe? I have a beater winter ride/hauler 3rd gen 3.3 with a 38k mile reman with excellent mechanicals and fiberglassed rockers.....I think I need the front strut assemblies and the big four are 170$/277$ EACH for the Monroe, while Rock Auto has them private label [same Monroe part number] for 67$ each...I mean for a van that runs excellent but is 22 years old I dont think I could beat that price.

My friend, I came off a 2005 T&C 3.3L, with 168k, I had just thrown a rebuilt tranny in it rather than junking it bcuz it had too much rust, and it was all I had. Pretty much I had taken care of it and had replaced Everything in the front end and rear.

However, my first choice (believing they are the best) was to buy two Monroe front strut assemblies from Parts Geek. Don't remember what model number, don't much care either. From 1 day to the next, they began a knocking noise, and if the strut-shock was blown, and the spring as if it couldn't hold the weight.

It was a NIGHTMARE for me, to remove them (luckily the old ones were still in their boxes in trash room of my building), I had to go thru all that myself again. I went to my local auto parts store and he suggested the FCS struts. Said they're not the greatest but they get the job done. He had them on his pathfinder. So I bought them. They worked out well.

Frim the 2005 I went onto a 2015 T&C 3.6L Touring, with 64k 3 months ago. It now has 68k, I replaced 4 tires, rear shocks with OEM mopar from chrysler. The front aren't too bad, but the casing is rusty, and I am hearing some creeping sound from the springs when recovering from a bounce. So I am considering either OEM again, or KYBs. Those are the top choices I would recommend to you, IF, your van is worth it to you.

I am currently about to give it a tuneup, for the obd scan tool mentioned it would be needed in a few months from now. Also replacing the PCV valve and thermostat.
Good luck to you sir..

 

[PcolaMike]

Even though pricier, OEM is the only way when talking about struts. The aftermarket Chinese spring material has a smaller diameter then the OEM. The smaller diameter isn't as strong, compresses easier giving it a mushy ride through road dips. Okay for an older beater upper or Caravan, but if you want the smooth ride you had off the lot (not slushy mushy, or swaying), stick with OEM struts and springs, especially the springs. I had about 176,000 miles on my 2007 T&C (original owner) and went the cheaper $350 route. Bad mistake. My original 176K mile struts were better than the aftermarket. These last 15 years I've been driving through intersections in my subdivision that had rain runoff dips (two per intersection), 2-3 round trips every day. That's a lot of strut compressions and they were pretty mushy. Two weeks later I was pulling them off and ordering OEMs for about $520. Night and day to say the least. Six months earlier I had overhauled all the front end bushings and motor mounts, so knew it wasn't my bushings.

Remember, the T&C has a "tuned" suspension over the Dodge giving it the better ride. It's been a year now and I don't regret going with the OEMs for a second. Just saying!

 

[Sienile]

All tuned means in terms of a stock suspension is that the mechanic hit it with a wrench (like a tuning fork) during assembly. You think grabbing another Mopar strut of the same model number gets you something different than what came on it? Nope. Those "untuned" struts are exactly the same as those "tuned" ones. Absolutely no difference between a T&C and DGC suspension. T&C was always the bougie B version of the DGC usually having nothing different other than a dash clock and leather seats (nothing that actually matters).

 

[Jeepman]

For my 2016 DGC, there are a couple more Mopar and SACHS strut selections when I look at the 2016 T&C version on rockauto.com. Otherwise the selection is the same.

 

[Cciman]

You never know what is inside, unless you take them apart. Struts have a hydraulic insert, and an outer casing. No magic. It is easy to be fooled (or biased) by brand names, and color schemes, and fancy marketing language. Because they are so easy to replace on this particular vehicle, why not use a cheap set and drive it until it wears out.

Anyone tried rebuilding their struts?
Seems easy to do if you can find a replacement strut insert of correct size.

 

[donchicago48]

Greetings everyone, I have a 3mo old 2015 Town and country touring 3.6L, I have done a few PM items on it. One thing I saw on I put new tires on at Mavis, were the suspension units. The rear were kinda rusted although the vehicle handled fine, so are the front. But I am hearing a common spring strut defect sound when recovering from a bump.

I did however purchased new rear OEM shocks at chrysler and I installed them. However, the pricing on the front struts w/o the springs etc was costly. So I ask you experienced folks, what would be the Better Choice, both economical and performance wise-longativity? Some folks say, never get rid of oem springs, re-use them, however, I am unsure.

I've seen KYBs, and a particular model from Monroe. But I've had bad experience with Monroe from Parts Geek and hear most of these are China junk. My van has 67k. What say ye..?

I am happy with thr KYB Struts I put on my 1991 Grand Caravan LE FWD. The KYB springs have 3 center coils bound together. The ride is quiet, firm, and controlled. I have KYB Rear Shocks too. This combination handles bumps very well.

 

[ATOMANT]

Were still rocking the original struts and Nivomat shocks on our 2005. Unless they leak oil or stop doing there job were not upgrading or replacing. We still have the original furnce in our house from 1988. Were happy withour heat bills and if something goes wrong I can fix it. I even have a spare from the neighbours hose when he upgraded.

 

[ATOMANT]

I am happy with thr KYB Struts I put on my 1991 Grand Caravan LE FWD. The KYB springs have 3 center coils bound together. The ride is quiet, firm, and controlled. I have KYB Rear Shocks too. This combination handles bumps very well. View attachment 68586

THose look like they may be dual rate springs. Cool.