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Dorman fit and finish suffers somewhat, in my experience.

What kind of seals were they, cheap cork/paper gasket, silicone coated, or something crushy.
Sorry, I think I made I mistake. Not the seals were supposedly not well machined but the seal holes on the housing weren't well machined. Or something. I don't remember anymore. I mean every Dorman housing that I've seen has been the same from the pictures I've seen. If the part was designed, tested and manufactured the way it is with the seals that are provided with it then that's the way it is and that's the way it should've been installed in the first place.
 
Discussion starter · #143 ·
So is this Dorman part a good quality one or is it a poor quality replacement part?
AeroZ is the only one I've heard had issues, but it seems like it might be a screw up by his mechanic.

It's pretty hard to screw up a solid piece of metal. That's all the Dorman part is, a metal adapter and the gaskets to install it with.
 
AeroZ is the only one I've heard had issues, but it seems like it might be a screw up by his mechanic.

It's pretty hard to screw up a solid piece of metal. That's all the Dorman part is, a metal adapter and the gaskets to install it with.
Yeah, I’m pretty sure the mechanic screwed up and the part is fine.


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I just did my "project". I have a 2011 T&C. I decided to go MOPAR-OEM using a 2014 style cooler assembly, since I did not want to go through all the trouble and have the Dorman be a problem (machining issues, etc). -- and would also to need to source a 2014 metal oil cooler to put on top of the Dorman-- but, now it seems you can find them complete (with cooler and housing) in certain places. Changed out the spark plugs, thermostat, and tranny cooler lines while I was there.

The gasket design of the oil cooler assembly fitting on the top of the block is probably a weakness in the design - as the temp cycles and the gaskets age, you are going to have leaks, no matter what. Hope this holds for another 145K.

PS. Do you have to replace the intake manifolds' gaskets every time you remove them or just when the installed gaskets are old and worn?
The old manifold gaskets were all pretty flat, and looked like there was oil seepage, so yes I would recommend changing them out.
 
Discussion starter · #147 ·
Replace them when you need to. If they were just replaced, it's unlikely they will need it again so soon.
 
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How much coolant do you have to drain to avoid making a mess? Or if the old housing is leaking coolant and it’s settling at some coolant level you don’t need to drain additional coolant at all? What about oil? Just loosen the oil filter cap to let it drain to the bottom of the crankcase?


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Discussion starter · #149 ·
Loosen the cap for the oil. For the coolant, if you remove the thermostat the coolant will drain below the cooler so you avoid a bigger puddle in the valley. Opening the radiator drain and the thermostat bleeder screw at the same time is probably an easier way and makes less mess.
 
Loosen the cap for the oil. For the coolant, if you remove the thermostat the coolant will drain below the cooler so you avoid a bigger puddle in the valley. Opening the radiator drain and the thermostat bleeder screw at the same time is probably an easier way and makes less mess.
Thanks. With the second method how do I know that enough coolant has been drained?


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Discussion starter · #151 ·
Squeeze the hose going into the cooler. Once you stop hearing fluid slosh in it when squeezed, drain just a bit more and it should be done. Or you could just drain everything. Either way you need to bleed it when filling back up. Just a bigger air pocket left if you drain completely.
 
Yep, just the next version of the assembly. It changed how the filter bypass worked. It went from the center tower for the relief valve to the cap.

AeroZ posted a few back that Dorman will be selling a 1-size-fits-all complete assembly (926-959) within the next few months. Initial retail is set at about $370. It's just going to be this version with all the parts you'd need for the '11-'13 conversion already on it. Think I heard someone mumbling about June 6 for the launch and next shipment of the bare units.
 
For coolant drainage- I put a large container under the drain valve at bottom of radiator and let it all leak out. Then filtered it through a veggie strainer lined with a paper towel and put the same coolant that came out right back in. (My coolant is fairly new after previous project ~ a year old). You can measure it out and put in new if you want.
 
Hi Everyone,

New member here.

I'd like to know if the engine torque specs that were posted by Sienile back in post #137 apply to a 2016 Dodge Caravan.

Thanks to all of you for your time and sharing of your information/experiences!
 
The directions that come with the Dorman housing also include the torque specs. The important one will be for the cooler to housing seal which is not in the posted specs if I recall correctly.
The Dorman’s installation manual only has the torque specs for the cooler to housing. Since the OEM part comes with preinstalled cooler you won’t find those torque specs from a service manual.

PS. I think they have the other torque specs in this video:


PS2. According to the comments you don’t have to remove the front brackets in order to remove the upper intake.
 
Discussion starter · #158 ·
Hi Everyone,

New member here.

I'd like to know if the engine torque specs that were posted by Sienile back in post #137 apply to a 2016 Dodge Caravan.

Thanks to all of you for your time and sharing of your information/experiences!
Those torque specs are the same from 2011-2020 and likely the same on all other 3.6 engines.
 
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