FYI - I rechecked the relays tonight and swapped them out for known good ones. They are fine. When I sprayed starter fluid into the air intake it started so the engine is sparking.

~Kevin

 

it sounds like you need to add some gas to the tank . With showing 14 miles to empty means you have less than a gal of gas and being in a driveway if it has any incline the pickup line won't be able to suck any gas up.

 

Added a couple of gallons. No change in behavior but the gas gauge registers just above 1/8 tank, now.

 

the only other thing I can think of is that something is blocking the pickup line , maybe something got sucked up in the line because if you can hear the pump and nothing comes out of the line when it's disconnected there must be something blocking it .

 

Welcome to the forum. I agree with BryanM. If you have fuel in the tank, and you hear the pump - then fuel should flow unless the pick-up is plugged/off/has a hole in it somewhere. I would also recommend changing the rear three plugs as soon as possible.

 

I plan on changing the plugs on Saturday when I have more time.

Would I be able to test the pump in a bucket of water and a 12v battery?

 

If your vehicle is equipped with a fuel filter, replace it before you continue with your diagnosis process.

 

I would not test the pump with water. If your pump has a warranty, I'd bet it would void the warranty. Most in-tank pumps use the fuel as a coolant to prevent overheating and water won't do the job....

 

Of the 3 wires going to the pump, based on the schematics, I've got a positive wire, ground wire and one goes to the BCM. I assume there would be a 12V drop between the (+) and (-) terminals? What does the single wire to the BCM do? Can it negatively affect the functionality of the pump? Is there a way to test it?

 

I ran my minivan out of fuel earlier this year (due to my fuel gauge deciding not to go below the 1 gal position that time, and due to my not having recognized the issue), and the symptoms were similar -- it barely ran for a while before conking out, and the "barely running" was just enough to get me down the road a bit, off the road, and into a parking spot. After putting a couple gallons in the tank, it took a fair bit of pump on-time before the system primed and fuel pressure really returned. Don't give up too soon on just a simple fuel level issue.

The wire going back to the BCM should be the fuel level sender wire.

The other items that could affect your fuel pressure, other than a wiring issue to the pump, would be the fuel filter (as someone mentioned) and the fuel pressure regulator. Both are in the vicinity of the fuel pump.

- G

 

Was traveling for work a bit and now I'm back on it.

Started the car with starter fluid so the engine appears okay.

Verified 12v goes to the pump for a brief moment when the key is turned to On.

Pulled the fuel pump out and hooked it up to 12v. Worked fine and it shot out some residual gas in the pump.

Replaced the fuel filter.

Attempts to start the car yielded no new results. Engine cranks but doesn't start.

 

Might try this. I assume you had a fuel pressure gauge connected up front on the fuel line. Disconnect it and leave the line open. Now remove the fuel pump relay and jump contacts 30 and 87 with a piece of wire. The pump should pump immediately, no keys needed. If you get fuel out the open line (be safe) I would start asking if the fuel injectors were operating and thinking bad cam sensor, PCM or wiring between them.

 

Hello I have the same problem whit my van I try what you suggested but I get no fuel out the line what do you tgi is my problem thanking you I. Advance

 

Because the engine will run on starter fluid tells me the cam/crank sensors are doing there job.

Just because the pump motor runs and spits some residual fuel out doesn't mean it can build pressure.
Is the fuel pressure still 0 PSI at the rail now as it was in the earlier posts?

 

Yup. Overlooked it. Thanks for the six check. Main thing I was looking for was eliminating the clogged line theory.

 

It was still 0 PSI.

Turns out the new pump I bought was defective. I exchanged it, installed the new one and it started up after a few cranks. Drove it around the block with no issues.

I can't thank everybody enough for your help and insight!

Cheers,
Kevin

 

Nice work. Just curious. Was it an Airtex pump? They seem to be less reliable based on multiple forums.

 

The Delphi pumps are supposed to be decent and do carry a lifetime warranty (not sure how AZ handles it, but Delphi itself offers the lifetime warranty on them). That's different from the retailer offering a lifetime warranty where the manufacturer does not (which is often the case).

Good to have data points from actual experience.

- G