Not sure if anyone has posted this before but every body needs to go the verticalvisions.com and order the TIPM PLUG IN RELAY system for $59. It works! It is a permanent solution and only takes 5 minutes to install. We were so happy to find this! We took the information to our mechanic and he had never heard of it. He was thrilled.

 

I bought this as my 2008 will die overnight and did nothing. Sucks. I should have done a temp fix to see if this was it before spending the money I guess

 

That's the other solution, for those not able to wire in the relay. I already linked to them in the original post. They currently have a sale on their full featured bypass board.

 

just wondering if there was a reason, why would you want to hardwire in a relay when this one is a permanent solution and takes two minutes to install?

 

I would not hardwire in a relay after using this product from Vertical Visions. It is working and was so easy to install.

 

This way you can have your van back up and running in minutes for under $10 should the relay ever fail. You pick the relay to use, pick something you can find locally... and a spare to keep with you is cheap. If the VV bypass fails, you are waiting for another to ship. I'm not sure of his policy, whether it'd cost you another $59 or not. And buying just 1 VV bypass costs as much as doing the external relay 3 or 4 times (on others).

It's a great solution for those not able to do the external relay. But the external relay is the factory solution for this TIPM.

 

Here's another source about the problem with some details with video on Testing and hardwiring:

Chrysler Total Integrated Power Module TIPM Fuel Pump Circuit Failure Diagnosing, Testing & Repair

OPUS - Chrysler Total Integrated Power Module TIPM Fuel Pump Circuit Failure Diagnosing, Testing & Repair

www.opusivs.com

 

Page NOT Found

 

I am going to get a bypass cable to test the fix. What is the purpose of having 10A and 20A fuses in parallel on the M37 tap?

 

The 10A feeds the existing M37 Run/Start circuit. The 2 20s feed the fuel pump.

 

I ask since the VV product has just a single10A at M37 and a 20A at M25. See pic above.

 

VV makes their own cables now that eliminate the need for a 2nd 20A. When they first started making them, they used Bussman ATM fuse taps just like anyone can now. When mine failed, I used a single fuse tap and a flat connector pin, so mine only had 2 fuses but it also had just a plain wire with a pin on it sticking out of the F/P fuse slot.

Either one of the 20A fuses can safely be changed for any higher rating fuse or even a shunt, but one of them must be a 20A.

 

Thanks - as always - for the insight.

 

I went ahead with the Vertical Visions plug in board since there was little risk (money back guarantee) and it seems to have done the trick. One odd thing though; the diagnostic LED on the board for the now bypassed and original fuel pump relay shows that it is fine (steady green LED). The fuel pump itself is fine too obviously.

When I did this test (watched the LED's during startup) the van had already been started a few times. Before the fix, I had only encountered the problem on the first start attempt after the van had been sitting a while. It could be that I'd see an original fuel pump relay problem during a "cold" start. I'll try that.

I'm impressed with VV. Well engineered product and good service. They have solutions for other problems too; door lock relays etc.

Thanks to all who contributed on this thread.

 

A lot of time when they go out they don't fail completely and may work after a few attempts, but it's only a matter of time before it fails completely. When mine went out it was a complete failure with no warning.

 

I was just made aware of this thread, which covers replacing the relay inside the TIPM. I do not recommend doing this, however. If it ever fails you have to repeat the whole process again, when you could just unplug and swap relays if you do the external one. Also, board soldering is substantially more difficult than wire soldering and easy for inexperienced people to damage the TIPM further. Just posting this here for the random person that insists on a "as it came from the factory" look.

TIPM fuel relay repair tutorial

Here is a quick picture tutorial on the TIPM fuel relay replacement project. I ordered two of the EX1-2U1S relays from Mouser electronics. (one to use and a spare just in case I mangled the first one). These were $4.68 each. Shipping was pretty high at 9$ but unbelievably it got here in two...

www.chryslerminivan.net

 

Did you remove the bottom fuse for the M25 side? That must be done to stop a battery drain issue with the fuel pump relay. Really it should be done in all situations so it doesn't backfeed the other circuit should the relay engage.

 

Did Chrysler ever fix this issue in production, or are all years of Gen 5 vans susceptible to this failure?
I was thinking that Chrysler got away from the TIPM - but I noticed that the owners manual references the TIPM.
I might buy a VV board and tuck it in the glovebox on the 2019...

 

All 5th gens can have this issue. In fact this TIPM is used across most of the van/SUV models, so it can be an issue in other vehicles as well... oddly enough the Durango and the Grand Cherokee can get it repaired as part of a recall. That's what I based these external relay instructions on.

 

Thanks for the reply. I am going to buy one. I won't necessarily install it.
This van is going to take the family from SC out to Moab, UT in the summer and I don't feel like being stranded in West Bumblefuch, Utah with a dead relay...

 

Thanks for the reply. I am going to buy one. I won't necessarily install it.
This van is going to take the family from SC out to Moab, UT in the summer and I don't feel like being stranded in West Bumblefuch, Utah with a dead relay...

I have a 2011 with the plug and play unit. My best guess says I’ve had it for at least four years. Thus far the only negative that I have found is I can hear the fuel pump when the key is in the accessory position.… So I generally avoid using the accessories unless the vehicle is on.
I’m really gob smacked. I have two of these vans and I had another one previously, my sister has one… We’re obviously a fan of the vehicle, but the fact that somebody can design and produce units like the vertical visions unit… And no one sees it as a design flaw and corrects it at Chrysler blows my mind.

 

Oh, I missed that. He must have a bypass cable and is using the switched power M7 slot. Move the M7 end to M37.

 

Must be something else. The bypass board doesn't hook to any accessory fuse slots.

 

Maybe confusing run for accessory?

 

My 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan began to intermittently crank with no start on the first couple of attempts but starts eventually. I went to order the board from Vertical Visions and found they now have another feature for a little more money (and it's on sale at the moment). Attached is a photo of the new item. Here is a link to the new board and description.

TIPM Plug-In Relay System™

The TIPM Plug-In Relay System (Patent #10,139,450) is our "top of the line" long-term solution for faulty fuel pump relays on many 2007-2020 Chrysler, Jeep, Ram, Dodge, and VW vehicles (see our complete vehicle list below). Some of our customers have driven 100,000+ miles with this part...

verticalvisions.com

Sienile: I'd like to hear your comments on the added functionality of this new board.

 

...
Sienile: I'd like to hear your comments on the added functionality of this new board.

The extra features aren't something you will really need if you've already identified your problem and aren't a tech that's likely to use them again; aside from the disable switch which could be used as an anti-theft measure. But a cut-off switch could easily be added to an external relay setup.

I would only recommend that model to techs or people who are unsure of their problem or how to test it. The cheaper one will do just fine for the majority of people.

 

Hello My name is Mike G, I'm an engineer at V.V. I'm glad to see the products we build being used in the field. If I can be of help to anyone please feel free to email me at anytime thanks mikespl4180@gmail.com

 

It's a great fix for the ones unable or afraid to splice in an external relay. You guys should really work on getting them in stores. I'm sure you'd make a lot of sales if you had it listed so when they go to the parts counter and ask for a fuel pump relay they pop up. Some people would rather buy a whole TIPM than be without their vehicle for a couple days while it ships to them.

 

Sienile, I found a bypass cable on Amazon for $8.59 Bypass cable $8.59
Is this the same as the cable you're describing? If it is, this might come in handy for someone like me who has somewhat limited soldering skills.

Now for the bypass cable. Remember this is for testing and temporary use only.
View attachment 68200
The M7 slot has a keyed and a battery 12v output. Use this slot for testing only. It will leave the pump running when the engine is off.
The M37 slot is the same output the factory external relay repair uses and only has power when the engine is running or being started. Use this for an emergency bypass.
View attachment 68202
You can make a bypass cable out of 2 ATM fuse taps. They often come with a butt connector preinstalled on the wire. Remove it from one, strip the wire, and crimp it to the other.
The bottom fuse in the side going to the M25 fuel pump fuse must be empty to avoid backfeeding voltage to the Run/Start circuit.
When installing the bypass cable in M37 and M25, the wire side of the fuse tap will point toward the center of the TIPM. Installing it backwards in M37 may blow the 10A fuse. Installing backwards in M25 will not power the fuel pump.

 

It should function the same, but often Amazon parts use cheap wire that may not be well suited for the load. You can make your own with 2 ATM fuse taps (Bussman brand available at most autoparts stores). Chop and strip one end and crimp it into the other, no soldering. Keep in mind that the bypass cables should only be used for diagnostics or a temporary replacement. Using them long term may cause a fire.

 

Finally got around to this myself. Pulled my bypass cable out, spliced in a new relay. Now for some reason I have constant power on my cigarette lighters. Which is where my stereo has switched power tapped from, so my stereo is constantly powered as well. I thought maybe I just stuck the fuse back in the wrong slot after removing the bypass, but both cig lighter fuse slots seem to yield the same results.

 

Something isn't done right. Can you take pictures of your splices? I think you may have tapped into the wrong wire somewhere. No switching around of the right wires should cause that to happen.

Only 3 wires should be used: #40 brown on C1 (black connector with white face) and #38 pink/ light green and #10 dark blue/orange on C5 (brown connector with green face).

 

My splices are correct, and I also corrected the missing cut from your diagram. If I had somehow done it wrong it's unlikely I would've still done it right enough for the fuel pump to work. I double checked my wiring multiple times. The immediate assumption I had was that the new relay was either normally closed, or failed closed. Checked the relay and it's fine.

In any sense, I don't even see a way in the schematic for power to backfeed from the tipm b+ into the cig lighter circuit.

Next troubleshooting step is to just pull the lighter fuse and see if the power stops. Just need too busy to get to it, in the meantime I just turn off the radio any time I shut the van down.