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Key-off Battery Drain on 2002 T&C

15K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  blknblu  
#1 ·
Our 2002 Town & Country is battery is going dead after the van is not used for a few days. It has been a very cold winter here so, we thought battery had gone dead due to temperatures. However after having to jump start the van several times now (always after it not being used for several days) we took it Advanced Auto (where we bought the battery) and they ran tests on battery. alternator and starter. Battery was a little low (we had just jump started it short time before these tests), and alternator started tested ok.

He suggested testing for parasitic battery draw.

So, I looked up how to do online, and with the multimeter Selector Switch on the 10A position, the reading I am getting is 0.75 amps. Which I understand is way over the recommended threshold of 50mA.

I made sure all doors were closed and everything off. (The hood was open but I do not see a hood light on this van.

I pulled fuses and reinserted one by one to find which circuit was drawing power.

So… it seems when the HZD LP fuse is pulled the reading on the multimeter drops to .04 amps.

Also, when the IOD fuse is pulled the reading on the multimeter drops to .04 amps. My understanding is that pulling this fuse cuts off all the possibilities of battery draw, so I assume that this is not the problem, correct?

I am looking for any advice/guidance to what my next step would be.

What is on this circuit?

How would I troubleshoot this circuit?

Or am I forgetting something more obvious to check or in my multimeter tests?

Thanks for any help anyone can provide!

:help_wsig
 
#2 ·
Instrument cluster, with connections to the PCI bus and a bunch of sensors. You might check to see if any wires that you can see under the dash are damaged. A couple of other things that come to mind is a well-known problem with PCI bus wiring running under the sliding door. Haven't messed around wth that myself, but a forum search should find a few prior threads on this subject. I don't have any thread links on this saved, but seem to remember a purple wire being discussed.

And if nothing good shows up from either of those two, there is another old favorite problem with corrosion in the IPM (fuse box), both in the top layer and bottom as well. Don't recall any threads about parasitic draw due to IPM wiring problems, but it can get so messed up inside that anything might be possible.
 
#3 ·
#4 ·
Thanks for your reply.

The battery is two years old.

Would I still be seeing the reading that I see on the multimeter, as well as the notice drop when theHZD LP fuse is pulled, if the battery itself was the issue?
 
#5 · (Edited)
"Would I still be seeing the reading that I see on the multimeter, as well as the notice drop when theHZD LP fuse is pulled, if the battery itself was the issue?" No. You have a 35 to 45 milliamp (small as drains go) parasitic drain based on what you are saying but it sure wouldn't hurt to have the battery load tested and/or let it sit on a charger overnight. Plus multiple jumps can drastically decrease their lifespan.

Are you letting the van "sleep" 15 minutes minimum before taking a reading? That means disconnect the negative battery cable then let the van sit untouched. After 15 minutes connect the meter and take a reading.

Read the fuse chart in your owners manual. There should be a number position listed for the HZD fuse on the chart. I'll need that number to scope out the wire diagram and determine where to start. On the diagrams I use fuses are ID'd by that number and not the circuit label found on your fuse box lid. Dumb!

Want the wire diagram? Send me an email address to send it to via a private message. How? Click "RIP" at left.
 
#6 ·
"Would I still be seeing the reading that I see on the multimeter, as well as the notice drop when theHZD LP fuse is pulled, if the battery itself was the issue?" No. You have a 35 to 45 milliamp (small as drains go) parasitic drain based on what you are saying but it sure wouldn't hurt to have the battery load tested and/or let it sit on a charger overnight. Plus multiple jumps can drastically decrease their lifespan.
Thanks for your reply. Could you explain this a bit more in depth? Perhaps I am not using my multimeter correctly. I have a manual digital multimeter. With the multimeter Selector Switch on the 10A position, the reading I am getting is 0.75 reading. Which I assume is 0.75 amperes. When I remove the HZD LP fuse it dropped to 0.04.

So the drain reading with the HZD LP fuse in is way too high, but the reading without that fuse is acceptable, correct?

"Are you letting the van "sleep" 15 minutes minimum before taking a reading? That means disconnect the negative battery cable then let the van sit untouched. After 15 minutes connect the meter and take a reading.


I did let car rest for 30+ minutes before trying to take a reading. And then connected multimeter and took a reading. Does connecting the multimeter "wake up" the system on an '02 T&C? Does pulling and replacing fuses wake up the system on an '02 T&C?

"Read the fuse chart in your owners manual. There should be a number position listed for the HZD fuse on the chart. I'll need that number to scope out the wire diagram and determine where to start. On the diagrams I use fuses are ID'd by that number and not the circuit label found on your fuse box lid. Dumb!

Want the wire diagram? Send me an email address to send it to via a private message. How? Click "RIP" at left.


I don't have a fuse box diagram with numbers on it , either on the fuse box lid, or in the owners manual. Cannot find one online with numbers that is for certain for 2002 T&C. According to this discussion online, it appears the HZD LP fuse is #24.

I will send you PM with my email to get a wire diagram from you.

Thanks for your time and help :thumb:
 
#8 ·